Unisteer Rack & Pinion

bnickel said:

i think Pabear just wenr through that on his install and he used a port a power to seperate the tubes enough for the shaft. also i think the difference is that one of those sets of headers is hooker comp headers and the other set is of hooker super comps, there is a big difference between the 2

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True about Pabear's issue, but if you look at his photos, he already had space between 5 and 6. I will not be able to move mine enough.

I have the competition headers, not the super comps. When I pulled the photo from Holley, there looks like more space on the super comps.

Here is a photo of the Comps:


Here is the super comps:


All the information that I have was about the competition headers working, but it looks to be super comps.

So much for good information...

John

I just finished the majority of my rack installation in my '66 coupe. For the most part, the install was pretty smooth. I did have some issues with my Hedman headers. I had to relocate the number 5 tube. Nothing too bad. In moving it to allow for the steering shaft, I gained a straight shot for my clutch cable to run to the bell housing. That's something I should have done before. The only other pain, was drilling through the upper u-joint to pin it to the upper steering shaft. The stainless steel u-joints are thick.
My problem now is setting the alignment. I have the rack centered, but for some reason I ran out of adjustment for the right side, and I still have too much toe in. I'll probably cut some of the tie rod end off to give me more adjustment.
I took a short test drive. Even with it out of alignment, it is much better than the worn out power steering I had before.
All in all, I'm happy so far. I couldn't pass up that price.

Has anybody succeeded in getting it on a car with tri y's?

another bump....

anyone else gotten it installed and can give us some feedback?

My installation is complete. I drove about 10 miles today. The highway driving is great, but the slower turns are going to take some getting used to. The steering effort is not bad, but I'm kinda used to the old power steering.
Overall, I am still impressed with the apparent quality of the product. Their customer service has been pretty good also. I called about getting tie rod ends for Granada spindles, and they sent them free of charge. They were very friendly about it.
The only tech question I asked them was about what headers would work with their rack. I was having some issues with my Hedman headers. They didn't seem to have many answers. They could only tell me that they did their install with Hooker comp headers. They couldn't suggest any other options. I used my Hedman headers with minor changes.
Fairly easy to install. I'm an idiot, and I managed to get it working fine.

68efisuper, did you get the power or manual TCP rack?
Thanks, Dan.

Update...

I have not given up as of yet.

I am looking at adding a third u-joint and a support bearing to get around the header issue. I am working with Unisteer to get this resolved. If this works the way it looks on paper, the header issues will be easily fixed for a small addtional cost.

John

Dan,
I went with the manual rack since I have a small block car and a have taken some weight off the front.

Thanks, 68efisuper.

New pricing

Summits pricing seems now to be $875,95..

By the way..

My Unisteer install into 65 2+2, no headers at this point. Dident start off too well. The origionally supplied "DD" shaft was too short @14" for my car, and there were binding issues. After being sent a third universal & support, I reverted to the origional setup w/longer 14 15/16" dogbone("DD")
This works perfectly. The dogbone could probably be shorter, but I'm not going to experiment cutting it shorter till it doesnt work. Top end of the steering collum is about even with the fire wall.
Once the install is compleated the R&P steering effort is a joy. Driving around town, in traffic, low speeds is closer to power steering, puts a grin on yer face..the wife will drive the car this weekend & I'll cive her impressions.

P.S.
We used a Buddy's hobby rack during the install, he also has a 65 2+2. Though he was initally put off by the binding issues, and dident order at the good price. He is now looking to buy, if some one has changed their mind about installing their's

Finally got it done!!!

After many setbacks, the Unisteer rack is finally in. I cannot say enough about how it makes the car drive. The car feels like it has power steering at any speed over a dead stop (I can drive it with 1 hand over road surfaces that used to take both hands because of the dartiness of the car.) The turning radius does not appear to have suffered any loss. I have not measured the final stroke, but the turning radius is in the 33-36 foot range for both directions. (great for my driving)

On the down side, the install is not by any means a simple bolt on. For some cars, it might be, but for mine, the header tube was the issue. The folks at Unisteer (Denny is who I was dealing with) were very helpful, and did send me the additional parts that I requested, but at my cost. To get mine to work correctly, I had to add a 3rd u-joint and a center support. This was so I could get around my header tube issue. See photos. One photo is of the 3rd u-joint, and the other photo is of the heim joint center support along with its mounting bracket.

Additional Parts List:
542970 Shaft DD Mav Spl X Blank 14"
8050250 Joint, Maval Spline x DD
8050480 Steering Shaft Sup, Zinc
8050560 Steering Shaft support kit, Ch

Things that changed from the manual (I stopped using it after about step 7). The bolts to install the rack to the frame you will not be able to tighten without nothcing the bracket that holds the rack to the car. The bracket prevents you from putting a socket on the bolts.

The tube needs to be increased by approximately 1 inch. I cut mine at 29.25". After this, all measurements are at your own risk. The shaft I did not measure, but instead, I re-assembled the column out of the car and provided a small pre-load on the bearings and then used the u-joint to make the final cut so it would have correct pre-load when assembled. (note, this is a critical measurement when you are drilling the hole through the u-joint to pin it to the shaft)

Go to Wal-Mart and buy a 3/4" dowel rod before going any further. You will need this to mock up the shaft assembly. Whittle or sand the ends to make the correct shapes of the shafts as needed. I built the entire assembly using the dowel rod before putting a saw to the actual shafts. The most time consuming part was making several shafts from the wooden dowel, but it kept me from having to purchase another $25 DD Shaft.

The center support bracket mounts using the top most front most hole that was used to secure the original box. The lower hole I drilled sloppy so it would give me some adjustment, and does not need to be drilled until the project is almost complete. The threaded section of the heim joint must be trimmed to get the proper alignment of the steering shaft. I had to cut off about 5/8".

Things to keep in mind:

Phasing... They talk about it a little in the manual, but it is critical to keep the notchy feeling out to the system. With a 3rd u-joint, you can really feel the phasing issues.

Trimming... The u-joints will bind if there is any surface of a shaft sticking through the inside of the u-joint.

Time... Take your time!!! Mock everything up with the dowel rods. Keep trimming them until you get it to fit. It will not just fall together.

Overall, I wish I had installed the rack from the beginning. The car is a downright blast to drive.

I cannot say enough about how it makes the car drive. It feels like a modern car. It is responsive and quick on the steering. There is still some road feedback, but it is very enjoyable and mild. For the money, this is by far the best modification that I have done to the car.

Please contact me if you have any questions.

A few more pics...

Just installed their manual rack in my 87. Except for a boogered up tie rod end (threads weren't cut good) all was well and install was easy. I'll be pm'ing some of you for alignment help.

Food For Thought

For anyone planning to do this r&p conversion i would recommend considering Randalls Rack... i know its more money but it is a true bolt-on.. at least it was for my 68... i also dont like the idea of that extra u-joint... also the randalls is power ...and was no problem with the hooker comps i already had... just something to consider... Joe

meganjoe said:

For anyone planning to do this r&p conversion i would recommend considering Randalls Rack... i know its more money but it is a true bolt-on.. at least it was for my 68... i also dont like the idea of that extra u-joint... also the randalls is power ...and was no problem with the hooker comps i already had... just something to consider... Joe

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Joe, I'm sure your recommendation comes from your positive experiences with Randalls Rack, and considering all relavent facts doesnt hurt.
But dont be put off, by the fact that some of us had to do a little fabricating on our respective Unisteer installs. It wasnt really wasn't that difficult, and the Tech guys at Unisteer, are easy to work with. I'd planned to install a power rack , then the Summit/Unisteer deal came, when my manual box was very much needing replacement. Now that both my wife & I have been driving the car neither of us feels any more need for power steering. So all the PS ills that could happen never will. No leaks, hoses to repair, pumps & belts to worry with, and that little bit of extra HP & MPG will always be there.
Once installed, again not difficult, the Unisteer is a joy to drve, and well worth the money even at full retail.
A buddy worked with me on the Unisteer install, and was initally put off by the R&P not being a straight bolt in. Doug has now ordered a Unisteer, for his 65 2+2, because he's driven mine, and knows first hand, what the end results will be.

snakestang, what set of headers do you run? Thanks.

stangman67 said:

snakestang, what set of headers do you run? Thanks.

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Hooker Competitions, part number 6901. These are not the super comps(6111). They fit better and do not hang as low as the super comps. Besides, they are only about $360 with the ceramic coating as opposed to the supers in ceramic that run about $620.

John

Stangninjak said:

Heh well after many month's and setbacks, (had to move the shop ect, ) I am on my rack install. We have the rack in, and after redoing my Z bar fab, it should fit fine. I am now on the steering shaft mod, and I had to cut my old steering box out. I think we will clear the header's fine. (headman mid tubes).

Hopefully will have it done this weekend, and I will report back with pics. I am glad that many took advantage of the "pricing" and are satafied with the product. I cannot wait to get mines done, so I can move on to my rear end

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You will have a hard time not driving the car once you get the rack installed.

John