Update:Overheating problem!

[NotoriousGT350]

Before:My stang would run 210* normally w/o AC and 212* with AC on.

Problem: End of May, car started overheating to 210*-215 w/o AC in city and sometimes 215*-220 on the highway. WITH AC on, would rise to 230* before I turned it off.

Now: Saturday installed a HD 3-core radiator(Lifetime warranty) which is a lot wider and a Ford Motorcraft 180* t-stat and a new radiator cap.
In city w/o AC....182*-187
In city with AC....195*-200

On hwy w/o AC....182*-185
On hwy with AC....182*-185

Figured I would go ahead and update the cooling system with a new radiator and t-stat since they could possibly have over 187K+ miles on them. It solved my overheating problem and I'm satisfied with the result.

 

[Michael Yount]

Glad it worked out - thanks for posting the outcome.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Just a while ago, there was a good size puddle of antifreeze in my driveway. Turned on the car the I could see antifreeze leaking from the bottom of t-stat housing. I manage to tighten the bottom bolt up since it was a little loose. Hopefully, just hopefully that will do it. I was wondering why since last Sunday I notice my reservoir going low over the past few days.

Hate to take off the t-stat housing again because it's a pain in the arse!

 

[UnderPressureGT]

Glad it worked out.... i had the same problem as you and upgraded to a ron davis aluminum radiator.... my car doesnt see over 160 on a 100 degree day

 

[NotoriousGT350]

This one is just a copper brass 3 core. If all goes well with school, next fall I will have to upgrade my whole cooling system, suspension, drivetrain for the plans I have for the car.

 

[Michael Yount]

Keep your eye on it - it's unusual for a leak there to be completely solved just by tightening it up. If the t'stat slipped out of it's recess and is slightly wedged between the housing and the manifold, the leak will likely return.

If it does, I've found two keys to making the t'stat/gasket job much easier and more certain to seal. The first is to use only the adhesive backed gasket that's designed to hold the t'stat in it's recess in the housing. The second is tocompletely remove both the upper radiator hose as well as the bypass hose before trying to position the housing/gasket. Too many people try to position the housing with one or both of those hoses attached, and they make it darn near impossible to line things up correctly. With them completely removed (both ends), the housing goes into place very easily. Once it's in place and tight, then put the hoses back on. Piece of cake. Good luck with it - hope it's fixed and you don't have to do anything at all.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Just turned on the car, let it warm up a bit, and drove it a couple of miles. Came back and popped open the hood to see it leak still underneath. Fixing to go out again to see if it finally dripped onto the driveway. I didn't bother to take off the bypass hose last Sat. which main it a real problem to get it out and put it back on. I hate dealing with the bottom bolt on trying to finger tighten it, then using a wrench. I guess I might as well buy a new bypass hose and take off the old one and reinstall the t-stat and housing like you said. Looks like I will not get to it til Sunday. Damn!!

 

[NotoriousGT350]

I forgot to mention one more thing. Whenever I took off the t-stat last Saturday, it locks into the housing. The Ford Motorcraft t-stat that I bought months ago does lock into place and it just a bit smaller in diameter. I went to an auto parts store and they said it should still work and that they probably don't make a t-stat with locking ears like mine. Any opinions or suggestions?

 

[Michael Yount]

"I guess I might as well buy a new bypass hose and take off the old one and reinstall the t-stat and housing like you said." Now you're getting somewhere.

Those with the detent to lock them in place have that so that the air bleed valve (little jiggly thing) is positioned at noon to let air get through the t'stat when cold filling the system. If you're aftermarket t'stat doesn't lock in place, be sure to place the bleed valve up - at noon position. If it doesn't have one, take a small drill bit, and drill a small hole so that you've created one. It won't let enough water past to cause a problem, and it will make getting air out of the system easier. Good luck.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

The aftermarket t-stat didn't have one and doesn't lock into place, it just sits there. I will need to also get some thread sealer. Oh yeah, which bolt is the long one? Upper or bottom? I know I have them in right.

 

[Michael Yount]

I believe the side of the t'stat where the bypass hose hooks up has a thicker flange than the other side - longer bolt goes through the thicker flange.

 

[87'GTstang]

Glad it worked out.... i had the same problem as you and upgraded to a ron davis aluminum radiator.... my car doesnt see over 160 on a 100 degree day

160 is actually a bad thing. Your car is running a little too cold for optimum performance and definitely gas mileage. Imagine what it will do in the winter.............

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Ok, just went to two auto parts stores in search for gaskets. I bought a paper one with an adhesive back and another regular gasket, as well as Anit-Seize and a new bypass hose. The adhesive gasket seems to have an slighter larger diameter where the bypass hose passage way is at than the regular gasket. Don't think if will be a problem.

Got a ride to school for tomorrow, so when I return I can get started on putting in a new gasket and hose with the engine cold. Just hope it's not raining.

 

[Michael Yount]

The larger hole is common and not a problem. Smaller hole in the gasket than the opening would be a problem. Don't forget to drill the air bleed in the stat.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Ok, I'm looking at my Haynes manual and see a pic of a t-stat with the bleeder valve. I'm lookin at my old one right now and it doesn't have one, but it's just totally different from the aftermarket t-stat that I bought.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

So I will put the t-stat in the housing, then the gasket with the adhesive sticking to the housing, put some sealant on the opposite side of the gasket. Align with the holes on the manifold and bolt it up. Check for leaks, add fluid, burp the air,all that good stuff.

Then do I just let my car sit for a while so the sealant will have time to adhere?

 

[Ranchero5.0]

Usually the dang T stat falls out of the recess and causes the leak. I usually silicone it into a spare housing the night before the work. I'm not a big fan of the gaskets, just one more seal to leak by. I use Permatex's ultrablue and have had the best luck with it. Also the FMS T stat housing is Taiwan junk and I played hell with getting it to seal.

Jamie

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Guess I'll just have to start it up, make sure no leaks, and just let it sit for the rest of the day. Guess I should have gotten the Mr. Gasket t-stat?

 

[Michael Yount]

I've had mine out countless times - I use only the adhesive gasket with no sealant. I've never had a leak. The adhesive gasket is designed to hold the t'stat in place (immediately if everything is as clean as it should be) and allow you to bolt the housing in without fear of the t'stat slipping. Notorious - the better t'stats have the bleeder; the cheaper ones don't.

 

[NotoriousGT350]

Alright, I'll install it without the sealant on the opposite side to get me by for now. I'll look into ordering a new thermostat with a bledder valve. You guys are a great help. I'll let you guys know how it goes tomorrow. American Muscle Car competition is on Speed Channel. I'll be back!

Thanks again.

J.R.