Help on normal operating temps on daily driver OEM 5.0

Does this look like it would be ok :
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(and I am not a radiator specialist) looks to me like those passageways could get plugged very easily. I would compare it to a modine or some other aftermarket radiator.
you can change the title to this thread (referring to the other thread with radiator pics) with the edit button. Keep this going with pics and snappy commentary while documenting your work.
Oh, and the occasional alcoholic beverage pic or even animal pics are good as long as the said animal can hold a wrench
 
Good luck to keeping it cool!
I have 192 thermostat, new water pump, cobra water pump overdrive pulley, LMR aluminum radiator, stock timing with aluminum edelbrock heads!
On freeway no probs in summer with A/C on but stop and go traffic A/C on temp will go up!
And yes my fox has the air dam under car with all shrouds in radiator compartment to deflect air thru radiator
 
I found 2 OEM style Spectra Premium company radiators . Both measure same size , only difference I can see is the transmission cooler style - the 138 is a plated fin design ( probably tube type ) the 556 is a concentric style ( large single reservoir ) from what I read , plated is better cooling of them ? Interestingly Amz sells the 138 ( $72) a bit cheaper than the 556 ( $80 )
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I think I found the source of overheating ! ( don’t want to get too confident yet though ) i took a close up of my radiator to prepare for the switch - ( keep in mind at 50yo my close up vision sucks , lol ) I was looking at my pics and zoomed in to see my fins . It looks like the airflow would be very restricted in mine - compared to new one - what do you think as this being a valid problem ?
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I think I found the source of overheating ! ( don’t want to get too confident yet though ) i took a close up of my radiator to prepare for the switch - ( keep in mind at 50yo my close up vision sucks , lol ) I was looking at my pics and zoomed in to see my fins . It looks like the airflow would be very restricted in mine - compared to new one - what do you think as this being a valid problem ?
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Wow. Does that even pass any light through it? That’s plugged solid!
 
I think I found the source of overheating ! ( don’t want to get too confident yet though ) i took a close up of my radiator to prepare for the switch - ( keep in mind at 50yo my close up vision sucks , lol ) I was looking at my pics and zoomed in to see my fins . It looks like the airflow would be very restricted in mine - compared to new one - what do you think as this being a valid problem ?
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Looks to me like instead of spending hundreds buying a new radiator, you need to spend a buck at the car wash.
 
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Lol , car wash - I only owned car for 4 months - the engine bay is very clean compared to when I got it . Previous owner was a body guy and did a 2 stage paint on it ( bet a lot of dust was added then to fins if car ran in that garage - I remember engine bay was very dusty ) So, this defiantly is a problem ? I don’t feel so bad running temps to 225 now in 100 degree air temps , I do wish I caught it earlier , but I did catch it before it got out of hand .
 
Lol , car wash - I only owned car for 4 months - the engine bay is very clean compared to when I got it . Previous owner was a body guy and did a 2 stage paint on it ( bet a lot of dust was added then to fins if car ran in that garage - I remember engine bay was very dusty ) So, this defiantly is a problem ? I don’t feel so bad running temps to 225 now in 100 degree air temps , I do wish I caught it earlier , but I did catch it before it got out of hand .

It sure is a problem. Like Mike said, spend some time cleaning it, and you may not have to spend a dime if you get air flowing through it again.
 
I think I will see if I can clean out and get good airflow - it’s free to try and can’t hurt - if I get passages open , I will also flush system - ( should I just run hose water thru it or use a rad clean product ? ) after I flush good I will do a distilled flush with only water and test temps - if ok I will drain and switch to green coolant
 
I think I will see if I can clean out and get good airflow - it’s free to try and can’t hurt - if I get passages open , I will also flush system - ( should I just run hose water thru it or use a rad clean product ? ) after I flush good I will do a distilled flush with only water and test temps - if ok I will drain and switch to green coolant
Need pic to see what the inside of radiator looks like.
If you do have to get a radiator, avoid any with plastic end caps. BTW, LMR is the place to go for all your needs.
 
I cleaned outside fins with degreaser and a hose- , they are free of clogs now and the suction from fan running through it is stronger than my last girlfriends mom after a few shots of tequila with me , lol . I took off the intake hose on radiator and ran engine with hose in cap side and purged all old coolant while heat on . Then added a bottle of prestone radiator cleaner , hooked up hose , capped and ran for 10 min - will leave it sit over night . Will flush out tmmrw with hose then final flush with distilled water then add coolant and see where I am at . Btw the radiator interior fins were flowing great .
 
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Try and ramp the front of the car above the back. Air in the block and upper radiator hose are common and can lead to swings in temperature. Also keep in mind that without the right amount of pressure in the system (15-16 psi), the boiling point is lower and can turn the coolant into a gas. Sometimes burping the coolant of the air in it can be a pain. Usually best never to let the system go completely empty if it can be avoided. Won't be the end of the world. Just takes time and patience.
 
2 days of Prestone radiator cleaner went through system - no miles just a few hours of circulation , then Flushed out with garden hose and finished with 4 gallons of distilled water . Then added one bottle of concentrate prestone antifreeze and filled overflow tank . Not sure how it’s suppose to flow , but this is end result - will road test tmmrw ....
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