Upper Control Arm Install, how hard? tips?

You can leave the cat-back in, it's not too much in the way. They are not difficult to install, just make sure the axle is well supported with a couple of jackstands, don't just use a jack to support the axle, especially if you take the shocks loose. Break the bolts loose with eveything attached, to be safe. Don't forget to retighten them after a few weeks once things start settling in. The axle may want to rotate if you leave the small shocks attached (if you even still have them), so be ready for that. I ended up using the scissor jack to push the axle toward the front to align the uppers. When I did mine, I just left the axle bushings in, and considering the frustration factor and low mileage, it seemed like the best thing to do. Good luck, just the feeling of the rear and the rest of the car working together is worth it. Gone is the rear body shift I used to feel when I'd set the car in the corner, like the body was rotating over the axle.

Did you guys pull out your quad shocks? Mine are still in, but do they really do anything after changing your control arms.

From what I saw on the upper control arms with when install LCA, springs, shocks/struts last weekend, it doesn't seem very complicate at all.. It just holds the axle and nothing more. Just put jack stands under the axle and remove the bolts and install new ones and you're done! (I've never install UCA yet.. but will be doing soon)

As for quad shocks, I removed them after I installed my MM LCA..

Two ways to get the bushings out: drill them out (the rubber bushing, tap them out when rubber is gone) or air chisel.

I installed Steeda upper control arms with the 3 piece busings. You will need jack stands and a jack to do it. Support the car with the stands in front of your lower control arms so that the axle is free and drops all the way down. Use the jack to slightly change the pinon angle on the differential. You can jack it from the dog bone or the cover area. The bolts at both ends will pull right out with your fingures when you get the pinon angle just right. It only takes just a slight amount of movement on the differential. The hardest part is removing the busings on the differential housing. The steeda instructions says to use a 3/8's drill bit and drill around the busing and dig it out. I had to use a die grinder with a rotary file to get all the pieces out. There is also a tool from Maximum Motorsports that is supposed to make it easier, but I don't know of anyone who has used it. I have also seen some guys post that they burned out the rubber using a torch. Good Luck. The UCA are a very worth whiled Mod.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/rucabushing.asp

Thanks for the tips guys, i think i will try the drill and see how that works. If all fails i will rip out the torch and burn them out...that should be fun. I thought about taking it to a shop but i did the lowers myself, took my time and did them right.