Engine Upper Intake seal concerns (pics)

89GTRound2

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Mar 17, 2021
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Indiana
Ok,

Trick flow lower to Flotek heads.
Using the felpros with the extra sealing bead.
These heads and lower intake were mated up prior to me pulling it all apart with no coolant or other leaks.
I am probably just nervous, but I am concerned that the little gap between the head and lower intake is going to leak. Visually looks to big to me... I have used feeler gauges back in there to make sure.it doesn't just go on into the water jacket. Which it does not. Any one have any pictures of their build from these angles? Wanting to make sure I don't have an immediate problem... Thanks everyone.
 

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That gap looks excessive. How do the other corners fit?

For test fitting purposes, pull out the blue end seals. Does it sit better?

I've always used the same explorer style intake seals with the blue end gaskets. I've never had a problem getting it to seal at all.
 
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That gap looks excessive. How do the other corners fit?

For test fitting purposes, pull out the blue end seals. Does it sit better?

I've always used the same explorer style intake seals with the blue end gaskets. I've never had a problem getting it to seal at all.
I agree, I've used a flashlight looking for any sign of gaps. I think it is sealed. I've just heard so many people say not to rtv the water ports. I think I may be doing that now.... I checked everything for straightness. No idea...
 
Ibuse sealant on all my water ports. Been doing it forever, too.

Advance sells an extra thick intake gasket that works for issues where the gap is excessive. Its a paper gasket though. It would need to be trimmed with an exacto knife to fit a bigger port. I think they are only available in stock port size but I've used them on a bunch of different engine combos that had issues with sealing. They are 1/16 thick. Never had issues with them at all....they just tear in half when it's time to pull the intake back off.
 
I used the same gaskets on my intake.

I did seal around the water ports. I ran the blue China rails completely dry. put a dab of RTV in the corners and a light film around each coolant port. I smoke tested and pressure tested the coolant system and it appears it all sealed up well.

The factory installs those gaskets completely dry on production engines. Tons of Ford explorers/mountaineers left the factory on the blue end gaskets (which i think are better than the older cork seals) You should be able to do the same. The rtv aroujd the coolant ports is just some insurance. Don’t overdue it though and compress it into the water port.
 
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I like using " right stuff " on the China rails with the cork gaskets. The cork gaskets ends need to be trimmed a little so the don't try to push out while curing. On the coolant ports I use a thin smear of gray silicone that's meant for parts in contact with coolant. It's got a picture of a water pump on the pack. Both are made by Permatex. I apply it to the coolant port and on the gasket area where it will contact the intake. I use studs made from cut off bolts to help drop the intake down flat.
 
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I like using " right stuff " on the China rails with the cork gaskets. The cork gaskets ends need to be trimmed a little so the don't try to push out while curing. On the coolant ports I use a thin smear of gray silicone that's meant for parts in contact with coolant. It's got a picture of a water pump on the pack. Both are made by Permatex. I apply it to the coolant port and on the gasket area where it will contact the intake. I use studs made from cut off bolts to help drop the intake down flat.
Ah ok. So are you using grey permatex on both the head side and the intake side of the water ports? I assumed but curious.
I just purchased arp intake studs in hopes that helps me guide this thing back down.
 
Rtv black on head and intake, just around the coolant ports. Build the china wall a little taller with a bead of black rtv. Drop it all together.

I used the silicone rail seals for a while, but even those can slip/shift during install… so in the end I had better luck with just silicone.

Some might say I use ‘excessive’ amounts of brake cleaner to prep the surfaces though, lol.
 
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Rtv black on head and intake, just around the coolant ports. Build the china wall a little taller with a bead of black rtv. Drop it all together.

I used the silicone rail seals for a while, but even those can slip/shift during install… so in the end I had better luck with just silicone.

Some might say I use ‘excessive’ amounts of brake cleaner to prep the surfaces though, lol.
Man, it sure kills me to take all this apart ... Haha thanks for the input. So your saying no "right stuff" just rtv black?
 
Right stuff will work but is hell to clean off if you have to go back in. I've used it a bunch of times. I just found that the gray silicone made for coolant works better. Right stuff goes on anything that has to seal oil.

I do a this smear of sicone on both sides of the gasket. ( head and intake side ). I don't use any silicone on the intake ports or that part of the gasket.
 
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Well... I feel like the casting gave me a scare that really wasn't an issue.... Check this out. It has that little cut out on all corners causing me to think it had to much play. Thoughts?
 

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