UPR 4 bolt CC Plate Install ?

[MysteryMachine]

I have a set of UPR CC plates and i'm a little confused on the instructions. It says in the instructions:

5. Remove the (2) 15/16” nuts and (2) 13/16” bolts holding the bottom of the strut to the spindle and remove the strut.
6. Remove the three nuts holding the stock CC plates or aftermarket CC plates and remove the top plate.
7. Pull the factory stud plate off of the top of the strut.
8. Remove the factory dust cover if using original struts but leave the factory bump stop in place.
9. Take the passenger side stud plate and place it upside down onto the driver side strut tower and mark the strut tower for the 4th bolt location.
10. Using a punch make an indentation in the center of the mark you make for the 4th bolt location.
11. Drill a hole in the driver side strut tower using your marked location with a 27/64” drill bit.
12. Take the driver side stud plate and guide the stud plate through the fender well and line up the three studs through the factory holes.
13. Place three of the .300 stainless steel spacers onto each of the exposed studs on top of the strut tower.

I'm confused at #9 am i suppose to use the stock pass side plate to mark the hole or the New pass side plate to mark the hole? I looked at using the new plate and theres a pretty good range to where i could mark for the hole I wanna get it right and not have a huge hole in my fender from having to drill it 5 times

Thanks

 

[urban96]

i would call UPR

 

[MysteryMachine]

are they there now

 

[94-302-vert]

Use the new one as a template. then there is enough adjustment range in the new C/C plates to allow you to adjust out differences side to side due to the location of this hole.

 

[hotrodnut]

I would center up the holes as close as possible in the plate vs the holes in the strut tower and mark the new hole as close to the center of the hole in the plate as possible. That would assure you to have the most possible adjustment in the end.

 

[MysteryMachine]

yeah thats pretty much how i did it. I showed pics to a fox guy last night without the strut in and asked if it looked right he said yeah so i guess i'm doing everything right

 

[BlackVert]

That sounds similar to the MM instructions. MM says to take the stock plate, flip it over and line up the two holes that that didn't move. Then mark where the hole that moved is. MM says to use a small drill first in the center, to help keep the bigger drill bit from moving when making the final hole.

(1)
.
.
.
(2).....(3)


flip it so that the hole at (2) moves but (1) and (3) stay where they are.


(1).....(2)
.
.
.
...........(3)

I know UPR may be different, but knowing how MM says to do it may help.

- Chris

 

[MysteryMachine]

yeah here was my test fit and to look at the shinnyness under my hood lol. my problem now is the damn ball joint the bolt keeps spinning when i try to tighten the nut. the guy at the shop said i had to attach it to the strut and jack it up and put a crap load of bressure in it but once i attatch it to the strut i can't get anything in there to tighten the nut. i think the bolt is screwed up you can se nicks in a couple threads so i'm just gonna give it a little push with the impact. Theres a whole lotta these going on I know that

View attachment 500276

 

[OrangeMustangGt]

I have those exact plates. I just put them on! they suck because they clunk over bumps!

 

[MysteryMachine]

they were free lol. I liked them they were shinny pisses me off though you can see the allen bolts are rusting already and they were sitting in my living room means their gonna go quick on my car