UPR product failures after 500 miles

cant really argue with you, your right, you are the man, everyone with a 4 link is doing it wrong, UPR sucks, MM can even make a mustang handle in sand dunes, and you know everything about drag racing too
 
cant really argue with you, your right, you are the man, everyone with a 4 link is doing it wrong, UPR sucks, MM can even make a mustang handle in sand dunes, and you know everything about drag racing too

Relax Jeff, i've always kept things civil with you, I have a point of view about a suspension design, and you have yours, no need to get nasty. I never said a 4 link doesnt work for drag racing, but I wouldnt be surprised if it starts getting phased out, i asked a question and you responded how you did, if you believe i dont know what im talking about enlighten me, I have no problem being wrong but i want to know WHY and HOW im wrong, not just "No thats not right your wrong, go die in a fire"

srrthis said:
what in the hell is an anti squat bar first? i can tell you NO ONE runs anything called an anti squat bar... hell MM doesnt even sell anything called an anti squat bar...

are you refering to an Anti roll bar? if thats what your refering to the that does nothing to make it like a 3 link...
I was going to respond but there is so much wrong with everything in this post i'll leave it alone
 
Its not the quality i have issue with. Its not ripping ideas from huge corporations that i have THAT big of a deal with. Its hurting the little man that pisses me off. I want answers to the thread that was posted in the first page.
 
I'm thinking that UPR should offer a "group buy" on their new and improved smog pump and or A/C elim kits.

The only thing that I would ask is that the main attaching bolt be of a grade 8 or class 10.9 (metric) hardness. It currently looks to be grade 5.
 
Its not the quality i have issue with. Its not ripping ideas from huge corporations that i have THAT big of a deal with. Its hurting the little man that pisses me off. I want answers to the thread that was posted in the first page.

I think I have answered all of the questions. I am not sure what you are referring to. If it is what we are doing for the customer, I have spoke directly to him and we will be shipping him new product within the next few days. The parts are being machined as we speak. We are making a revision to the parts as we speak. I guaranteed the customer that I would do whatever it takes to make him happy. I hope this has answered your question, if not post it again please.
 
I think I have answered all of the questions. I am not sure what you are referring to. If it is what we are doing for the customer, I have spoke directly to him and we will be shipping him new product within the next few days. The parts are being machined as we speak. We are making a revision to the parts as we speak. I guaranteed the customer that I would do whatever it takes to make him happy. I hope this has answered your question, if not post it again please.


This didnt take long.....UPR sucks
 
My UPR K member KIT just arrived and I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the TIG work and the penetration. I wish the A-arms were gusseted at the Kmember attachment points but this is no racecar.. it IS however, a convertible, and I am using every piece MM offers to strengthen the chassis, no offense to Jeremy or UPR.

Frankly, I think we are all lucky to be owners of cars that the Aftermarket supports so well and gives and takes input as well as Jeremy has shown here.

Also we need to be a tad more cautious with the Engineering Plagiarism charge.. Global West and Griggs might be more than a little sensative to some of MM's products and ideas... and I will continue to shop at MM for their excellent products and customer service.
 
A drag suspension is only as good as its setup

hmmmm

This was kinda funny, but I didn't see any smiley faces so I answered it seriously. Keep in mind you can be considered a street racer by yourself. I have a customer that had his car taken for leaving a traffic light with the wheels up :)



Thought that wasn't possible.....:rolleyes:
 
hmmmm

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Thought that wasn't possible.....:rolleyes:

Oh yeah, happens all the time.
vin_diesel_paul_walker_the_fast_and_the_furious_001.jpg
 
Do you disagree?

i agree with it...

the old ladder bar set up in the coupe would work about every other pass... it would run a low 1.20's to a high 1.19 then the next pass it would blow the tires off. NOTHING in the tune up changed... track temp the same, tire pressure dead nuts the same every pass... bottle pressure could be the same... shocks the same on all corners for compression and rebound...

issue came from some where else in the chassis not being built right. the ladder bars were insalled to low making the car to high. they were never braced. the bars in through the dash were bolted to the floor. the main hoop wasnt centered in the body.

the new chassis runs between a 1.16 -1.18 on the rear tires since EVERYTHING in the chassis is set up right now. its amazing even having the best shocks money can buy on the car it still comes back to EVERYTHING being correct!
 
i agree with it...

the old ladder bar set up in the coupe would work about every other pass... it would run a low 1.20's to a high 1.19 then the next pass it would blow the tires off. NOTHING in the tune up changed... track temp the same, tire pressure dead nuts the same every pass... bottle pressure could be the same... shocks the same on all corners for compression and rebound...

issue came from some where else in the chassis not being built right. the ladder bars were insalled to low making the car to high. they were never braced. the bars in through the dash were bolted to the floor. the main hoop wasnt centered in the body.

the new chassis runs between a 1.16 -1.18 on the rear tires since EVERYTHING in the chassis is set up right now. its amazing even having the best shocks money can buy on the car it still comes back to EVERYTHING being correct!

Thats the point i was trying to make, you could have all the best parts money can buy but if the ride height isnt right, instant center is off, or ever if the rear is binding and you dont know it, you will have a problem. I had issuses with my car last year, would dead hook, get 20 feet out and blow the tires right off. Turned out it was two bent shocks from my rubber bushings in the housing flexing and causing my pinion angle to change dramatically. I put new shocks on and went from a 1.6 best sixty foot to 1.5's consistently, 1.49 on slicks was my best.
 
As far as the wheels up in the street, there is a company that posted recent pics of their 2011 gt on the street with the wheels up. I think it only ran 11s at the time the pic was taken.


For anyone's information, we had a billet vacuum block on our R series vortech car in 1997. Yes 1997. We use a fuel rail log and tapped the proper threads and inserted brass fittings into it. I have seen this many times on race cars from the late 90's till today.
 
update on this.

got the new pulley kits this last week on thursday. the slop is completely gone, jeremy hooked it up for me. sent them out immidiately, sent me the correct version, great service from him.

parts fit good, took me like 40 min to get them swapped. should have been less but the smog kit location is a bitch with a blower :mad: put the belt on and only moved the car once so far. no more squeaks, belt held alignment on the grooves. problem appears to be fixed.

thanks for the help and for resolving this jeremy. hopefully all said and done this helped in some way.
 
Im not saying my UPR is the best thing in the world but overall im happy with the k-member, i see alot of threads slinging mud at thier suspension parts but nobody actually shows damage, there was one thread i read where an a-arm had a small imperfection in it, with pictures and that case UPR replaced the part and when they had it sonic tested the part was shown that it wouldnt have failed

I agree. I have their upper/lower rear control arms and they work great for me.