Relax Jeff, i've always kept things civil with you, I have a point of view about a suspension design, and you have yours, no need to get nasty. I never said a 4 link doesnt work for drag racing, but I wouldnt be surprised if it starts getting phased out, i asked a question and you responded how you did, if you believe i dont know what im talking about enlighten me, I have no problem being wrong but i want to know WHY and HOW im wrong, not just "No thats not right your wrong, go die in a fire"
I was going to respond but there is so much wrong with everything in this post i'll leave it alonesrrthis said:
I think I have answered all of the questions. I am not sure what you are referring to. If it is what we are doing for the customer, I have spoke directly to him and we will be shipping him new product within the next few days. The parts are being machined as we speak. We are making a revision to the parts as we speak. I guaranteed the customer that I would do whatever it takes to make him happy. I hope this has answered your question, if not post it again please.
Not to downplay what happened there, but, it seems to me that anybody who knows their way around a mill or even a drill press could figure out how to make one of those vacuum blocks. It's not exactly a high-tech cutting edge product.
My UPR K member KIT just arrived and I was pleasantly surprised with the quality of the TIG work and the penetration. I wish the A-arms were gusseted at the Kmember attachment points but this is no racecar.. it IS however, a convertible, and I am using every piece MM offers to strengthen the chassis, no offense to Jeremy or UPR.
Frankly, I think we are all lucky to be owners of cars that the Aftermarket supports so well and gives and takes input as well as Jeremy has shown here.
Also we need to be a tad more cautious with the Engineering Plagiarism charge.. Global West and Griggs might be more than a little sensative to some of MM's products and ideas... and I will continue to shop at MM for their excellent products and customer service.
Frankly, I think we are all lucky to be owners of cars that the Aftermarket supports so well and gives and takes input as well as Jeremy has shown here.
Also we need to be a tad more cautious with the Engineering Plagiarism charge.. Global West and Griggs might be more than a little sensative to some of MM's products and ideas... and I will continue to shop at MM for their excellent products and customer service.
i agree with it...
the old ladder bar set up in the coupe would work about every other pass... it would run a low 1.20's to a high 1.19 then the next pass it would blow the tires off. NOTHING in the tune up changed... track temp the same, tire pressure dead nuts the same every pass... bottle pressure could be the same... shocks the same on all corners for compression and rebound...
issue came from some where else in the chassis not being built right. the ladder bars were insalled to low making the car to high. they were never braced. the bars in through the dash were bolted to the floor. the main hoop wasnt centered in the body.
the new chassis runs between a 1.16 -1.18 on the rear tires since EVERYTHING in the chassis is set up right now. its amazing even having the best shocks money can buy on the car it still comes back to EVERYTHING being correct!
As far as the wheels up in the street, there is a company that posted recent pics of their 2011 gt on the street with the wheels up. I think it only ran 11s at the time the pic was taken.
For anyone's information, we had a billet vacuum block on our R series vortech car in 1997. Yes 1997. We use a fuel rail log and tapped the proper threads and inserted brass fittings into it. I have seen this many times on race cars from the late 90's till today.
For anyone's information, we had a billet vacuum block on our R series vortech car in 1997. Yes 1997. We use a fuel rail log and tapped the proper threads and inserted brass fittings into it. I have seen this many times on race cars from the late 90's till today.
update on this.
got the new pulley kits this last week on thursday. the slop is completely gone, jeremy hooked it up for me. sent them out immidiately, sent me the correct version, great service from him.
parts fit good, took me like 40 min to get them swapped. should have been less but the smog kit location is a bitch with a blower
thanks for the help and for resolving this jeremy. hopefully all said and done this helped in some way.
got the new pulley kits this last week on thursday. the slop is completely gone, jeremy hooked it up for me. sent them out immidiately, sent me the correct version, great service from him.
parts fit good, took me like 40 min to get them swapped. should have been less but the smog kit location is a bitch with a blower
thanks for the help and for resolving this jeremy. hopefully all said and done this helped in some way.
I agree. I have their upper/lower rear control arms and they work great for me.