I have purchased an am about to install an S-trim Vortech on my 89 GT. In anticipation of this, I replaced the fuel pump with a 190 BBK, and changed nothing else. The remainer of the induction is bone stock. Now, the thing is hard to start, stumbles during acceleration, and just runs bad in general. I thought I had a bad pump, so I changed it again, but no improvement. The blower came with the T-rex pump but I have not installed it yet. I can't figure out how just changing the fuel pump made it run this bad.
Used to run good
- Thread starter TXstangDude89
- Start date
Put a fuel pressure gauge on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail & see what kind of pressure you are getting. You are going to need one with a supercharger, so you might as well do it now.
Replace the fuel filter since changing the pump often shakes loose dirt that can clog the filter.
Next, dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Look for codes 95 & 96 which are fuel pump electrical system problem codes.
Replace the fuel filter since changing the pump often shakes loose dirt that can clog the filter.
Next, dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Look for codes 95 & 96 which are fuel pump electrical system problem codes.
how many psi are you running, i would put a 225 or 255 lph fuel pump in it and 30 pound injectors with a matching MAF meter. and then get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator for it and dial it all in. you can't just slap on a blower and a fuel pump and expect it to work fine.
slap on a blower?
The blower hasnt been "slapped" on yet. In fact, if you had read the message, the induction is stock. There is nothing to dial-in yet, and no reason to put all these other parts on if a simple fuel pump change made it run bad. Jrichker gave me some good info that was a big help. Get your mechanics 101 book and look up Cause and Effect.
dastang2 said:
The blower hasnt been "slapped" on yet. In fact, if you had read the message, the induction is stock. There is nothing to dial-in yet, and no reason to put all these other parts on if a simple fuel pump change made it run bad. Jrichker gave me some good info that was a big help. Get your mechanics 101 book and look up Cause and Effect.
