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V3 Almost!

  • Thread starter Thread starter smkshw
  • Start date Start date Aug 2, 2015
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smkshw

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Feb 12, 2010
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#621
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #621
Car was dialled in man!!!!!!.....lol
 

a91what

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#622
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #622
smkshw said:
Car was dialled in man!!!!!!.....lol
Click to expand...
That's what I love about my MS, it's speed density. I can change pulleys and whatever else I want.

A slight bump in CR will not cause too much concern. You are getting bigger injectors so that will need a tweek anyway.
 
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smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
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Feb 8, 2016
#623
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #623
a91what said:
That's what I love about my MS, it's speed density. I can change pulleys and whatever else I want.

A slight bump in CR will not cause too much concern. You are getting bigger injectors so that will need a tweek anyway.
Click to expand...
Ya,he said hes worked with higher cr with meth so i hope your right....worst case new heads!....damn it...lol....if i was able to run the cometics i can play with cr more also,another option....but ill have to take the engine out...
 

mikestang63

SN Certified Technician
Aug 27, 2012
11,606
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In the garage
Feb 8, 2016
#624
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #624
smkshw said:
They are 58cc.I was thinking the same thing....but $$$$......!!!

Is that normal wear from having 2 head gaskets in,or was there an issue is what I'm wondering??
Click to expand...
if your deck is warped, imo you need to have that addressed in order to maintain the necessary seal. That requires removal of the block from the car. You can get custom HG in different thickness to help lower compression but that won't do anything about sealing.
 

stang89bidges

Advanced Member
Mar 14, 2014
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Feb 8, 2016
#625
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #625
Man this is a tough decision you have to make. If you even suspect the deck on your block to be warped you should have it checked. And this requires removal of engine and dismantled for machine shop. Usually dismantled.

Best check those heads too. If they get milled you need to blueprint them so you know where you stand for the next time otherwise you won't know how much has been taken off in total and you risk P2V clearance issues during reassembly.

And if your pushing 500HP, like I said before and so have others, your pushing the limits of your stock block. Therefore if you take that into consideration, you may not want to spend the money on this block with a mill. It may save you some money but your going to end up rebuilding the engine if you get this far so now you may be better off finding a better block that can handle more HP. This needs to be a block that can handle your current internals if your trying to save money. Either way, it's a rebuild.

IMO, and take this as you will, is to have that deck professionally checked and the heads to see where you stand. Then start making big decisions after the results. If you slap this thing back together without these checks your going to end up spending more money in long run than rebuilding existing block or new one. Your in for the long haul buddy.

Sent from my Samsung Note 4 using Tapatalk
 
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TOOLOW91

If you're the village idiot what's that make me?
20+ Year Stangneter
Nov 29, 1999
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#626
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #626
a91what said:
Seriously?? All that cost to just lower the CR? Would it not be more cost effective to just pull a few degrees of timing or lower the psi, your running meth right? The cooling effect will stave off detonation very well.
Just my .02
Click to expand...
Seriously- it was just an idea . We know the cooling affect will keep detonation down because the heat in the chamber is lower . Which for obvious reasons is why it was put on the car .

He already had the heads off so its peace of mind knowing he isn't taking too much off his heads , in turn raising the compression even more . Starting with a fresh head with more combustion chamber lowering the comp down . Again I only suggested it cuz the car is apart again.


Sent from my iPhone using my fingers while my auto correct makes me seem illiterate
 
Last edited: Feb 8, 2016
Reactions: A5literMan and smkshw

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
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Feb 8, 2016
#627
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #627
stang89bidges said:
Man this is a tough decision you have to make. If you even suspect the deck on your block to be warped you should have it checked. And this requires removal of engine and dismantled for machine shop. Usually dismantled.

Best check those heads too. If they get milled you need to blueprint them so you know where you stand for the next time otherwise you won't know how much has been taken off in total and you risk P2V clearance issues during reassembly.

And if your pushing 500HP, like I said before and so have others, your pushing the limits of your stock block. Therefore if you take that into consideration, you may not want to spend the money on this block with a mill. It may save you some money but your going to end up rebuilding the engine if you get this far so now you may be better off finding a better block that can handle more HP. This needs to be a block that can handle your current internals if your trying to save money. Either way, it's a rebuild.

IMO, and take this as you will, is to have that deck professionally checked and the heads to see where you stand. Then start making big decisions after the results. If you slap this thing back together without these checks your going to end up spending more money in long run than rebuilding existing block or new one. Your in for the long haul buddy.

Sent from my Samsung Note 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I know the heads nead to be decked,guaranteed its coming from that spot,you can see and feel the fire ring pushed in the head exactly where it went under,so that wont seal for sure.....but if i get it redecked its going to a professional?...lol....do ppl actually do it by themselves?

I did a feeler guage test at all the spots,used the angle finder ruler part though,i will confirm with the proper machinest tool,but block seems fine....
At this point if i cant use the heads im getting a proper set for a sc but no way im starting a build again from scratch!...lol
 
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stang89bidges

Advanced Member
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Feb 8, 2016
#628
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #628
Sounds like a plan. If your comfortable with the deck tests you can perform then you have your decision. Good luck man!

Sent from my Samsung Note 4 using Tapatalk
 

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
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Feb 8, 2016
#629
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #629
stang89bidges said:
Sounds like a plan. If your comfortable with the deck tests you can perform then you have your decision. Good luck man!

Sent from my Samsung Note 4 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Ya i couldnt get .002 through at any point....thats the smallest it has....going to confirm still but nothing major so far...the heads not so much...lol
 
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a91what

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#630
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  • #630
Man I hope the block is good to go. I hate to see this type of thing happen
 
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Noobz347

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#631
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #631
smkshw said:
New heads??!!!!
Click to expand...

New Studs

No moar hed boltz
 
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smkshw

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Feb 12, 2010
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#632
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #632
a91what said:
Man I hope the block is good to go. I hate to see this type of thing happen
Click to expand...
"Seems" like it...and me too im deflated.
Noobz347 said:
New Studs

No moar hed boltz
Click to expand...
i have arp studs?....you saying get new ones?
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#633
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #633
smkshw said:
"Seems" like it...and me too im deflated.

i have arp studs?....you saying get new ones?
Click to expand...
No you can re use them.
 
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Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard
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Feb 8, 2016
#634
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #634
smkshw said:
I know the heads nead to be decked,guaranteed its coming from that spot,you can see and feel the fire ring pushed in the head exactly where it went under,so that wont seal for sure.....but if i get it redecked its going to a professional?...lol....do ppl actually do it by themselves?
Click to expand...
A resurface (whether head or block) is NOT a home job by any means.

I really don't feel like going all the way back to the beginning of the thread, what heads are these again? Some of the really old stuff uses a different alloy/temper that is softer and is more susceptible to the deforming you are seeing (this is why there's two versions of the 1011 gaskets, one with a stainless fire ring for iron/modern aluminum heads, and one with a copper ring for the softer heads). If these are some of the Chinese castings then the material may be a crapshoot. If these are new(er) Afr's, then something real funky us going on.
 
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elarm1

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#635
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #635
a91what said:
That's what I love about my MS, it's speed density. I can change pulleys and whatever else I want.

A slight bump in CR will not cause too much concern. You are getting bigger injectors so that will need a tweek anyway.
Click to expand...
I'd like to
a91what said:
That's what I love about my MS, it's speed density. I can change pulleys and whatever else I want.

A slight bump in CR will not cause too much concern. You are getting bigger injectors so that will need a tweek anyway.
Click to expand...
I need a school on ms. Send me a pm and tell me all about it!
 

Noobz347

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#636
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #636
wut he sed. Ensure you're using the correct "torque juice".
 

smkshw

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#637
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #637
Chuckman said:
A resurface (whether head or block) is NOT a home job by any means.

I really don't feel like going all the way back to the beginning of the thread, what heads are these again? Some of the really old stuff uses a different alloy/temper that is softer and is more susceptible to the deforming you are seeing (this is why there's two versions of the 1011 gaskets, one with a stainless fire ring for iron/modern aluminum heads, and one with a copper ring for the softer heads). If these are some of the Chinese castings then the material may be a crapshoot. If these are new(er) Afr's, then something real funky us going on.
Click to expand...
I know for sure that the engine builder hade 1011-1 felpro gaskets in it when it blew the first time?...the 1011-2 is for alumunumn heads??....and now i feel like an idiot because those fire rings indents where there also when i put in the 9333s!...just checked my pics??.....this is my fault i think!!....didnt even think to redeck the first time!....heads are afr 185s...bought 2 years ago
 
Last edited: Feb 8, 2016

a91what

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#638
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #638
elarm1 said:
I'd like to

I need a school on ms. Send me a pm and tell me all about it!
Click to expand...
@hoopty5.0 started a MS thread on here. I do all the technical support stuff and I know the how too and the tuning. Lol. If you want to read about it go to diyautotune.Com
Look for the pnp ecu or they have a diy version that you can build. I will answer any and all questions about the MS on the thread.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/the-megasquirt-tunerstudio-help-thread.888730/
 

A5literMan

At least it is lumpy...
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#639
  • Feb 8, 2016
  • #639
You should have the heads checked/milled. My major concern for you is the block itself. Hopefully it's not jacked but also you're really really close to the castings ability to stay together(mains cracking). Even with a good tune and getting the heads/deck sorted out, you're on the edge of "when" the block breaks IMO. Boosted 500whp motors(stroker also correct?) don't last a real long time. Not saying it can't be done but...many have had the negative outcome. I know you may not have the funds(especially with all of your recent set backs) but you really should either
A. Drop the boost/HP level down. Or...
B. Buy an aftermarket block and swap everything over.

I just fear that once you get this present issue resolved, the block will let go in short order. Maybe it will last for awhile...
I would hate to see the worst case scenario for you. Good luck
 
Reactions: RangerJoe, Chuckman and a91what

smkshw

5 Year Member
Feb 12, 2010
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Feb 9, 2016
#640
  • Feb 9, 2016
  • #640
A5literMan said:
You should have the heads checked/milled. My major concern for you is the block itself. Hopefully it's not jacked but also you're really really close to the castings ability to stay together(mains cracking). Even with a good tune and getting the heads/deck sorted out, you're on the edge of "when" the block breaks IMO. Boosted 500whp motors(stroker also correct?) don't last a real long time. Not saying it can't be done but...many have had the negative outcome. I know you may not have the funds(especially with all of your recent set backs) but you really should either
A. Drop the boost/HP level down. Or...
B. Buy an aftermarket block and swap everything over.

I just fear that once you get this present issue resolved, the block will let go in short order. Maybe it will last for awhile...
I would hate to see the worst case scenario for you. Good luck
Click to expand...
Well i tried to lower the boost,i was told the 344 pulley would give me 5-7 psi but it still hit 10psi....im putting the biggest pulley they have on next,and bigger injectors,my goal was 450ish,and from the start everyone said id be fine up too 500rwhp.....im almost ready to scrap the whole sc idea at this point!!....
 
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