I've got the MLS gaskets on mine. Not near as much prep. The rest is in here:
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ctrp-1108-racing-head-gaskets/
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ctrp-1108-racing-head-gaskets/
As my pic you mean?....did you use any type of gasket spray?I've got the MLS gaskets on mine. Not near as much prep. The rest is in here:
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ctrp-1108-racing-head-gaskets/
Problem is the head?...block checked out fine??...im sending the head out for measurmeant and resurfacing?...tuner agrees?...not sure what else i can do?I hate to say it but this all just sounds like trial and error. If it were me, and it WAS me last year, I would want to know the exact reason the head gaskets blew so that I could put together a plan to resolve that issue.
IMO your looking at this too quickly and acting upon it based off hunches. If your not an expert in the field of mechanics and you don't research or find someone to help diagnose then your going to throw so much money at this thing you will give up and sell the very thing you saught after in the first place, a bad ass tire shredding machine that you love to drive.
Just my .02 bro.
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As my pic you mean?....did you use any type of gasket spray?
The Article said:But the most interesting aspect of the MLS design isn't the number of layers of steel it uses, but what is done to the two layers on the outside of the gasket. A bead is rolled, or embossed, into the steel that goes around the cylinder bores as well as the water passages and even the oil drain back holes between the block and heads. When the cylinder heads are bolted to the block, the gasket is compressed but the sealing beads aren't crushed flat. It's these beads that provide the seal. And in the event combustion pressure causes the head to lift off the block slightly, the beads are able to spring back a bit so that the seal is maintained between the block and heads.
The Same Article said:In what the old timers called the "good old days," blown head gaskets used to be a real pain in the...well, you pick the body part. Poor machining practices that left the decks of both the heads and the block wavy, subpar bolts that weren't torqued accurately, and old-school head gaskets left a lot to be desired. And that's why all those additional practices popped up to help increase the chances of getting a long-lasting head gasket seal.
some other site said:Leaks, Problems, Copper spray?
MLS head gaskets go on dry because they are coated with a sealant. Each MLS head gasket is coated with a .001" thick viton rubber that is bonded to the outer stainless steel layers. Adding an additional sealer can hinder the performance of an MLS head gasket. Typically when people complain about their MLS gasket weeping, either:
- The surface finish is not up to spec (50 RA or better).
- They did not have the timing cover bolted to the block when it was resurfaced, or...
- They did not put a dab of sealant where the timing cover meets the block.
I read it yes...i just dont know what to do now....lol..this is what the tuner sent me,super nice guy,hes trying to help me out as much as he canDid you read the article?
and
I used no gasket spray.
That was from http://www.vacmotorsports.com/articlesDetail.php?recordID=25
Building a new short block would be the answer in a perfect world,but i just got this motor built a few years ago,hardly any k on it,and i just cant spend more on this car right now.From the begging of this thread,other than my compression,everyone said that i would be fine to run boost if i kept it under 500rwhp?Me...mill/fix heads first. Second built new shortblock(I know I know). Third run as much boost as I comfortably want to(which would be a lot lol). You could probably have all this done for less than 4K and never worry about the motor again.
Seriously. If it meant for me to spend another 1-2k at this point(for new heads,labor,time,worry), I'd go the above route. You're still going to be in a dilemma with the block if you just fix the topend problem. Now is the time to pull the motor and do it if you're going to. Otherwise it probably will be a matter of time. I wouldn't want to have spent all this time and money to boost it if I couldn't romp on it when I wanted. Just my .02
I believe (Asp racing???) Correct me if I'm wrong on the name. Will make custom pulleys if needed that way you can get the boost where it's needed.@TOOLOW91 ,@Onefine88 ,@84Ttop and all....i got up to 10psi with the 347 pulley,should i go straight to the 3.80 pulley?...im hoping i can bring it down to 5-7psi?
What size is the lower ? Is it an 8 rib setup with the 6.00 lower ?@TOOLOW91 ,@Onefine88 ,@84Ttop and all....i got up to 10psi with the 347 pulley,should i go straight to the 3.80 pulley?...im hoping i can bring it down to 5-7psi?
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