Vaccuum line from intake to charcoal

[Andres2882]

Hey all, as part of my quest to solve my car problem before I have to try and figure out something electrical - they confuse me - I have a vaccuum question. Somehow the vacuum line between the charcoal box and the bottom of the upper intake shredded. In that condition, it was giving me a real rough idle, but SOTP was great for some reason. Anyway, when I took the car in, the mechanic said he capped the leak and removed the hose. Here's my question, wouldn't it be pretty difficult to cap that leak on the lower intake without removing it? If it wasnt capped, would it give me some crazy drivability issues? Not sure how important it all is but just wondering

Anyway, thanks to all of you geniuses out there who can offer me some driving relief

 

[HISSIN50]

That hose attaches at the front (though I thought it was at the upper, not lower) of the intake. I removed mine w/o messing with the intake IIRC. I dont know what he did. Heat kills that hose off, right around the intake. I cut out the bad part and spliced in fuel hose from the remaining good part of the stock hose, and ran it to the intake.

I would not want to cap the hose at the charcoal cannister side, since that is where it purges fumes. It could get real constipated. Not good. Splicing like I did would have been a lot faster and kept the system functional.

Good luck bud.

 

[Andres2882]

I'm sorry, I meant to say on the underside of the upper intake. The hose charcoal side wasnt capped, so I'd assume he capped it off under the intake. Any issues in doing that?

 

[stang22]

It only pulls vacuum from the purge canister when the valve on the canister is open. You shouldn't see any driveability issues unless there was a leak.

Tim

 

[SamSnyder]

Had the exact same thing. I managed to get a new piece of hose connected up under there without pulling anything, although I did move the distributor cap out of the way. Can't remember if I actually got my hand in there, or had to use a long plier. But it is do-able without pulling anything apart. I even have a strut tower brace going across there in front. What would concern me more is that your mechanic didn't just replace the hose himself. It's about 10 cents worth of rubber vacuum hose, and if I could figure out how to get at it, I'd worry about some guy who holds himself out as a professional mechanic not doing it. That's the kind of thing a good mechanic would do for free, so you come back when there's something really wrong.

 

[Andres2882]

True true