Vacuum question

vicster

New Member
Dec 24, 2003
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I have searched the forums but can't find the concrete answer I am looking for. I am suspecting that I have a vacuum leak. If there is a steady vacuum of 19-20" at idle do I have a leak or is it still possible to have a vaccum leak when there is a normal vacuum pull at idle? Also, where is the best place to get a reading from. I have a vacuum gauge, but not sure where to attach the gauge for a good reading. I have a stock cam.

Besides the vacuum lines, where are the other red zones for leaks - upper and lower intake, EGR, IAC, PCV...where else?

Thanks
 
Just trying to track down a problem.

On cold starts my car is having all sorts of problems. From a cold start it takes three tries to get my car started. On the third try it will start up and peak at 800RPMS and stay there. If I try to drive away my car will sputter and backfire through the intake (pop sounds). Once I let it sit till operating temps it runs better, but still is lacking the full power I was used to. I haven't driven it to far since I didn't want to do more damage.

I pulled the codes and I got a few. I will post when i get home, but the 4 I remember are 33, 41, 91, and 12 and that was KOER. I know that 41 and 91 is HEGO lean right and left. I am running rich it seems. I can smell fuel from the exhaust and also can see some wetness on the pavement by the exhaust dumps. I have an off road pipe no cats. My fuel pressure is normal 32psi at idle.

Last time I checked my timing was at 10 degrees (spout out). My IAC is rather new, but a cheap advanced auto one. I haven't replaced my ACT or ECT, but my MAF was cleaned. I haven't cleaned my EGR or my fuel filter. I have an extra A9L laying around that I might swap out just in case.

I know there is a lot to check, but I am going to start at the basics. I am going to bump my timing up a bit and then check for vacuum leaks. Put back my stock MAF (running a Pro-M), and try some older parts (EGR and IAC).
 
vicster said:
Just trying to track down a problem.
I know there is a lot to check, but I am going to start at the basics. I am going to bump my timing up a bit and then check for vacuum leaks. Put back my stock MAF (running a Pro-M), and try some older parts (EGR and IAC).

It is best to just start with the codes. If you get jrichker here you'll get the complete run down on what they mean, but the Chiltons and Haynes manuals can get you started, and in the right direction.
Good Luck
 
Thanks! I will pull the all the codes and post when I get home.

Regarding unplugging the MAF. Should I unplug it first then turn the car on, or should I wait till it is running and then unplug it. What would I be looking for?

Back to my vacuum question. Is it possible to have a vacuum leak and also pull 19-20" at idle, or would small vauum leak anywhere cause that to drop or jump around?
 
I had the same problems recently. I cleaned my IAC, EGR and such but it did not fix the problem. I was running pig rich, got about 150 miles to the tank, when I am used to seeing at LEAST 225.

I bought me a vacuum tested and I was pulling 20" hg of vacuum, so I concluded that I had no vac leaks.

Put my stock Mass air sensor back on and the problem went away.

I think you should start the car, let it run for a minute, then un plug the mass air sensor. If the car seems like its going to die then its prob not the mass air meter. If the idle stays almost the same I say put your Stock Mass ar meter back on and see if the problem goes away.
 
Code 41 or 91 - O2 indicates system lean. Look for a vacuum leak or failing O2 sensor.

The computer sees a lean mixture signal coming from the O2 sensors and tries to compensate by adding more fuel. Many times the end result is an engine that runs pig rich and stinks of unburned fuel.

The following is a Quote from Charles O. Probst, Ford fuel Injection & Electronic Engine control:
"When the mixture is lean, the exhaust gas has oxygen, about the same amount as the ambient air. So the sensor will generate less than 400 Millivolts. Remember lean = less voltage.

When the mixture is rich, there's less oxygen in the exhaust than in the ambient air , so voltage is generated between the two sides of the tip. The voltage is greater than 600 millivolts. Remember rich = more voltage.

Here's a tip: the newer the sensor, the more the voltage changes, swinging from as low as 0.1 volt to as much as 0.9 volt. As an oxygen sensor ages, the voltage changes get smaller and slower - the voltage change lags behind the change in exhaust gas oxygen.

Because the oxygen sensor generates its own voltage, never apply voltage and never measure resistance of the sensor circuit. To measure voltage signals, use an analog voltmeter with a high input impedance, at least 10 megohms. Remember, a digital voltmeter will average a changing voltage." End Quote

Measuring the O2 sensor voltage at the computer will give you a good idea of how well they are working. You'll have to pull the passenger side kick panel off to gain access to the computer connector. Remove the plastic wiring cover to get to the back side of the wiring. Use a safety pin or paper clip to probe the connections from the rear. The computer pins are 29 (LH O2 with a dark green/pink wire) and 43 (RH O2 with a dark blue/pink wire). Use the ground next to the computer to ground the voltmeter.

Most of the common multimeters have a resistance scale. Be sure the O2 sensors are disconnected and measure the resistance from the O2 sensor body harness to the pins on the computer.

Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly damage the meter. Do not attempt to measure the resistance of the O2 sensors, it may damage them.

The O2 sensor ground (orange wire with a ring terminal on it) is in the wiring harness for the fuel injection wiring. I grounded mine to one of the intake manifold bolts

Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines, failed EGR vacuum regulator. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection coming from the intake manifold. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal flickers. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
Check for resistance between the brown/lt green wire on the EGR sensor and pin 27 on the computer: you should have less than 1 ohm.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif


EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.
connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve
apply 5in vacuum to the valve.
if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.
if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.
if engine stumbled, connect vacuum gauge to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 5in vacuum?

if not, check for manifold vacuum at the EGR vacuum valve.
if you have manifold vacuum then connect vacuum gauge to the EGR valve side of the vacuum valve and snap throttle to 2500 RPM.
should read about 5in vacuum
 
I hooked my Vacuum gauge up and i am pulling 16" jumps and dies a little, maybe 1/4". I am trying to locate my code reader, but wanted to give you the update on the vacuum. 16" = Leak? Stock cam.

87 GT 5.0: Cobra 5.0 Intake, 3.73 gears, JBA Headers, Moroso CAI, Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter, Offroad X pipe, Pro-M MAF