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valve seal removal and installation on AFR165

  • Thread starter Thread starter rockin_rick
  • Start date Start date Aug 8, 2004
R

rockin_rick

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Oct 9, 2003
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Aug 8, 2004
#1
  • Aug 8, 2004
  • #1
Do the valve seals simply pull off by hand (without tools)? Do they also push on by hand? Are you supposed to lube them with anything?

Rick
 
9

94DreamGT

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Aug 8, 2004
#2
  • Aug 8, 2004
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Why are you doing new seals?

I might have to do this myself...just trying to figure out why other people are doing it though. Were your heads used?
 
R

rockin_rick

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  • Aug 8, 2004
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No, they're new. I have a broken valve spring and I want to disassemble and swap out the springs for different ones.

Rick
 

Rootus

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#4
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Most of them will come off by hand with a little effort. Sometimes you have to twist them back and forth a few times to loosen them up before they can be pulled off. And to put them back on you just push. I reused my seals when I did my valve springs, because I didn't know I'd have to pull the valve seals in order to do the springs, and I didn't have new valve seals handy. Probably better to replace them with new, and I would guess they're not expensive. I'm not sure what kind of assembly lube is required, if any.

Dave
 

mo_dingo

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#5
  • Aug 9, 2004
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The chevy heads have their valve guides cast into the head. So, if you want to replace them, you need to drill them out, and press in new ones.

I assume it's the same in our case.
Scott
 

Rootus

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mo_dingo said:
The chevy heads have their valve guides cast into the head. So, if you want to replace them, you need to drill them out, and press in new ones.
Click to expand...
Seals != guides



Dave
 
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Jason@AFR

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#7
  • Aug 9, 2004
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typically on aftermarket p/c type seals, you will destroy them when removing, but I would recommend getting the rubber seals, you can press them on with your fingers and they are very durable and last a very long time.
 

Joes95GT

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Jason@AFR said:
typically on aftermarket p/c type seals, you will destroy them when removing, but I would recommend getting the rubber seals, you can press them on with your fingers and they are very durable and last a very long time.
Click to expand...
Cool, a guy from AFR! The "revised" 165 street heads sound pretty killer.

Viton rubber seals are your friend. That stuff can take a lickin' and keep on tickin'. They are extremely easy to install too, just as Jason said, press 'em in and that's it.

Joe
 

mo_dingo

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HairyCanary said:
Seals != guides



Dave
Click to expand...

Qua???

I know valve guides are synonymous with valve seals.

I just didn't know if they were cast into the head (made of metal).

So are stock valve guides metal in construction, or rubber, or what? Are all aftermarket ones rubber?
Scott
 

Rootus

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mo_dingo said:
I know valve guides are synonymous with valve seals.
Click to expand...
I was saying != (not equal) . Valve seals are the little rubber cups that seal the opening of the valve guide, around the valve stem, to keep oil from flowing down the guide into the combustion chamber. The guide is what the valve stem moves inside of. The valve guides on my AFR's look to be brass, and I believe they're pressed in. I think that's how most heads are.

So what's this about a new version of the 165? I guess I need to go visit AFR's site and take a peek...

Dave
 

mo_dingo

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#11
  • Aug 10, 2004
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HairyCanary said:
I was saying != (not equal) . Valve seals are the little rubber cups that seal the opening of the valve guide, around the valve stem, to keep oil from flowing down the guide into the combustion chamber. The guide is what the valve stem moves inside of. The valve guides on my AFR's look to be brass, and I believe they're pressed in. I think that's how most heads are.

So what's this about a new version of the 165? I guess I need to go visit AFR's site and take a peek...

Dave
Click to expand...



The != is a new one to me.

Thank you for the elucidation.

I didn't think about oil. I guess it would love to go inside the cc's with all that pressure once the valve is open. Makes sense now!!!
Scott
 

Grn92LX

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Aug 10, 2004
#12
  • Aug 10, 2004
  • #12
= I reused my seals when I did my valve springs, because I didn't know I'd have to pull the valve seals in order to do the springs, and I didn't have new valve seals handy. Probably better to replace them with new, and I would guess they're not expensive. I'm not sure what kind of assembly lube is required, if any.

Dave
Click to expand...


Not sure what you mean here? You dont have to remove the valve seals to change valve springs. When me and my buddy did the valve springs on my TW heads, we just pulled the old spring off and put the new one on. With compressed air in the cyl of course.

Mike
 

Zero_chance

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#13
  • Apr 19, 2005
  • #13
Im used to working with modulars so when I started redoing my heads and I got the blue viton Fel pro seals for my E7 heads I just noticed they dont extend to the bottom of the valve guide. Is this normal?
 
R

rockin_rick

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May 1, 2005
#14
  • May 1, 2005
  • #14
Grn92LX said:
Not sure what you mean here? You dont have to remove the valve seals to change valve springs. When me and my buddy did the valve springs on my TW heads, we just pulled the old spring off and put the new one on. With compressed air in the cyl of course.

Mike
Click to expand...

Dave needed to remove the seals to swap out the valve spring seat/locator when he changed from AFR springs to some comp 'beehives'. (I also did this)

Rick
 
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