im gonna do the valve seals tomarrow with the heads still on the car. my question is, does the cylinder have to be TDC before i put pressure to it? or does it matter? also another thing im unfamiliar with is valve spring compressors, and which one i should buy? just hoping one of you guys may be able to walk me through this a little?
valve seals
- Thread starter oosmytoo
- Start date
dirtysohc
Founding Member
No it doesn't have to be at TDC. Just screw the hose into the spark plug hole then put the air hose to it. The air will force the piston down in the hole so the engine sometimes turns over a very little bit but it's nothing to worry about. If the retainer doesn't break loose with the compressor (most of the time it won't) just tap the outer edge of the retainer lightly with a hammer. It's not a hard job just time consuming. Here's the type compressor I've always used for doing work while the head is still on the engine. Cheap and effective.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...9/002-8062370-1067209?_encoding=UTF8&v=glance
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...9/002-8062370-1067209?_encoding=UTF8&v=glance
thanks alot man! that pretty much answers my questions, but i got on more for you, the auto part store sold me 16 seals, and there all the same, i was wondering if the exhaust ones were different then the intake seals? these are just a little black rubber cup with a plastic or nylon ring that must slide along the valve? and has a metal band on the outside.dirtysohc said:
You want to have the valves both closed,obviously when applying air pressure to the cylinder,and since you`re going through the trouble of replacing the valve stem seals,it would be wise to replace the valve springs at the same time if they are stock.
The stock valve springs are lame from the factory and are probably tired by now.
The stock valve springs are lame from the factory and are probably tired by now.
dirtysohc
Founding Member
The valves will be closed because you remove the rocker arms before doing the job. Not unless you do it different from me.
Yes they're all the same. You just make sure to push them all the way onto the top of the valve guide, then when it's on you'll feel it sort of snap onto the valve guide. If you'll look at the valve guide when doing the job there is a groove at the top that helps the seal to have something to hold onto.
well i completed this project finally! and from what ive noticed so far, it has made a huge difference. I took it for a test drive, and before it would smoke really bad when it would deccelerate (sp?). but now, theres no smoke. it does still smoke a little under hard acceleration, but doesnt appear to be oil? probably carbon buildup. another thing i noticed when i pulled the upper intake, the ports were coated with oil. what would cause this?
Autobodypro_1
New Member
smoke
Your car will smoke a little for a few days because your exhaust system is still saturated with oil from when it was leaking. Just make sure the pcv valve didn't pop outof its grommet.
Your car will smoke a little for a few days because your exhaust system is still saturated with oil from when it was leaking. Just make sure the pcv valve didn't pop outof its grommet.
once again thanks for the info guys. i checked the pcv and it seems to be sitting in there like it should, shaked it around and it still rattled so im guessing its still ok? but i did notice that obviously there has been very small amounts of oil going out the filler tube and into the intake. so i was thinking about plumbing in a air/oil seperator in each one of those lines, that way i might be able to see if any oil collects in there?
