vam wiring not working

tiny4lx

Member
Dec 3, 2003
141
0
16
OXFORD PA
well i did what i was told and my car starts but it has a bad miss and it smokes! i ran 2 wires to the egr plug,ran 1 wire to the #3 plug on the comp. harness and "t" connect 2 wires to #46 tell me where i mest up.
 
well i believe i said this wrong. in the direction it said to remove unused pin #3 from harness red block,where is the red block? maybe im not reading this right.i did what 351wcoupe said,i ran the 3 wires to the egr plug and 1 inside the car.in side the car what am i doing wrong. THIS IS WHAT I CALL A BRAIN FART! HE HE. THANKS
 
the #3 pin is ac speed control that is to be moved to #43 for the vam. now my 87 didnt com with ac but the wire is still there,do i still cut the wire and what is this wire if my car dont have ac? or do i leave #3 hooked up and use a piece from my salvage harness to pin #43?
 
I've modified my instruction page to make it a bit easier to understand. Please review it. The wise and intelligent Crovax was involved in the writeup.

http://140cilx.stangnet.com/custom4.html

VAM wire conversion:
From the VAM wiring harness from the Turbocoupe:

Connect Vref (orange/white) to wire going to pin 26 of stock harness (also orange/white).
(Connect it by cutting off the the plastic housing connection that plugs into your EGR and is part of your stock wiring harness, exposing the 3 wires and matching the correct wire from the vam to the correct EGR wire. This wire going to pin 26 is found at your EGR plug. This means you will no longer use your EGR.)

Connect VAF (white/black) to wire going to pin 27 of stock harness (brown/light green).
(Just like before, this wire going to pin 27 can be found at your EGR plug. This means you will no longer use your EGR.)

Connect the VAM signal return (black/white) wire into the LX harness (black/white) wire that goes to pin 46. (Just like before, this wire going to pin 46 can be found at your EGR plug. This means you will no longer use your EGR.)

*Inside the car, at the passenger kick panel where the harness plugs into the computer, you'll need to move a few wires around. Remove the kick panel and locate the computer and harness (right there in your face). The following wiring mods are done at the large harness block that plugs into the computer. Remove block from computer, remove computer (go ahead and install your computer taken from either an '87 or '88 Turbocoupe). Looking at the computer block face that plugs into the computer, you'll see a red plastic piece that holds each wire securely in place. Carefully pry it out with an awl or small flat head screwdriver. Then, from the opposite side remove unused Pin Connector #3 from LX wire harness red block. Don't worry the wires won't all come out, there are still hard to pull and require a firm tug to make #3 pop out of the wiring block. (Or take one from your TC harness you salvaged, and put this pin connector and wire into the red block of your LX harness to plug into your Pin 43 position on the TC computer. The LX harness lacks this connecting pin) Connect Vane Air Temp (light green/purple) to Pin 43 using this transferred wire you have moved into position 43.
ACT wire conversion: no changes necessary.
Connect ACT wire to the wire going to pin 25 (green/red). This is a plug in on the 87-90 LX cars using the 87-88 TC computer since we have an ACT sensor.

Premium Mode Wiring (for max boost)
Cut the wire going into pin #24 of the LX harness about 3 inches above the wiring block. This is an Air Conditioning Wire. The Air Conditioning will still work properly with this wire cut and capped as this was an idle increase control wire for the Air Cond.. The 3 inch section of wire remaining, going into the computer is your #24 Octane control. Take this wire and T this into pin #46 signal return. This will complete the connection and allow your computer to run in the High Octane setting. You must from this point on, run 91 or greater octane fuel.
 
140cilx i did as you just said in the reply,thanks. my car was not equiped with ac does this matter. i start my car and it has a rough idles rough. i was told it might be the vam so changed it and still the same rough idle. could it be bad injectors . and the act wiring no changes but gives instructions for what? learn me before you get mad at me! thanks for all the help.
 
no it doesn't matter that you don't have an a/c. With the corrections made to your wiring, you know it's not a problem there. Have you done this yet?
Act wiring changes are just mentioned because there is so much mis-information out there and small differences for different years. Point is, you've got an ACT sensor already so don't change anything there.
After you've confirmed the wiring is corrected, if it still runs rough, let some of the smarties here help you diagnose it. Could be a bunch of things at this point.
 
-vacuum leaks?
-TPS adjusted?
-Timing dead on? Cam gear where it should be?
-All the grounds tight and in place? The one on the passenger side firewall that attaches to the turbo or block in place? It definately will affect the idle.
 
ok, today i gave it another shot and no luck. i looked at my wires and they are all in the right spot. so i went to my uncles shop and ask him what he thought. what he said is what i thought,"it might be the injectors". so to help my uncle gave me kit and inside the kit was a NOID plug. the plug goes into the injector plug then u turn the key to the start position and crank if the light comes on and flashes it means the injectors are bad,if the light stays on or dont come on the computeris bad or not plugged in. guess what it flashes,bad injectors.i hope!
 
Crovax, the way things r going i need all the luck i can get. at my local salvage yard they have 3 tc's that r complete. thursday i will get the injectors and put them in. the only bad thing is we are gong to get 3-6inches of snow. o well gotta be done.