Hello everyone. Before getting into detail I tried searching this specific issue all over the web and I cannot find anyone with the same conditions. It seems like 99% of the theft/immobilization issues have a rapid blinking theft light, which is not the case for me. Just over the winter time I brought my car out of the garage to move some stuff around and parked it back inside again for the remainder of the cold weather. Came out one day and I could not hear the fuel pump kick on and the car wont start. Checked the connection at the fuel pump and everything is getting good voltage which means it would have to pass the cut-off switch to get thus far. I actually got the car to start one day when I took my keys to Walmart to replace the battery in my remote lock/unlock and came back, but since then I have had no such luck. I plugged in my SCT tuner/scanner only to find that my car is in theft mode but there is no theft light blinking nor am I using a key without a chip. So this is my question: If the chip in my key or the reader inside the steering column was bad would the theft light blink rapidly, and if so I can check that off the list? My next question is what would be the next thing to check? I was going to open the passenger side kick-panel to ensure there is no lose connection to the ECU but I have not gotten that far. Any thoughts as to what my next steps should be? Also, I would like to add that when I put the key on and turn on the ignition all my gauges light up and the theft light goes out within 2-3 and seconds and I can hear the usual clicking sound in the engine bay. Also, when I originally thought it was the fuel pump I got another CCRM from the junk-yard to try, and no luck.