Vert /ttop door glass, run channel install question

billison

I like tinted tail
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Feb 27, 2006
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car is a 88 t top with hardtop style doors. My door glass is currently removed. My front and rear run channels crumbled when removed.

So I’ll be installed new front and rear run channels and the door glass. Is there a suggested order of operation here? I figure door glass fallowed by the run channels. I’ll do the new window bushings while I’m in there.


Any tips/tricks for getting the door glass back in the door and on the track?
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Geez, been so long ago all I remember is it was a wraslin match!
That reminds me, mine has developed a rattle :doh: thanks, now I gotta find that list so I can add THAT to it.
 

billison

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Yeah, I’m not looking forward to this. The cost of the front run channel is bad enough
 

LX Dave

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Jul 2, 2017
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Glass first, then the window runs. I left the front loose so I could pull it away from the glass some for extra room. That one is no fun at all.
I used the outside felt/rear run from a convertible, cut the front length to fit (with the door skin mounted mirror). Could not get that little piece in the rear to fit good at all.

Still can't get everything adjusted correctly. Followed the Ford guide and they still leak some.
 

billison

I like tinted tail
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Working on the job now. Doubled with it being a hard top door I converted over.

This so far is what seems to work is this.

Install the door glass but do not install the guide rod. This will give you room to wiggle.

The run channel will want to lay flat. Take a little tape and pinch the channel into shape and use the tape to help keep it that way. Run it down into the door not worrying about it being in the Chanel yet. Get it as close or to the bottom as you can. It will sit about 1/2” below the bottom. Get it to wrap around the mirror mount, it should sit nearly flush. At this point you should be able to start working it into the channel , removing the tape as you go. I used a super long screw driver to help push it into the center.

Once you are done , you’ll have 3-4 pop rivets to install. I’m not sure the correct size yet. I think it’s going to be 5/32 x 1/4.

The rear is a pop in and rivet operation.

Then install the guide rod, this is a pain in the butt.

If your lucky like me, this is when you’ll figure out your window motors are too weak to fully roll up the window. Lucky you.
 
Last edited:

Mustang5L5

i'm familiar with penetration
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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When I did it on my hatch car, using a paint stirrer was a helpful tool. Side enough to bear down on the channel and not bust through.

What also helped was spraying the channels with silicone spray where the glass runs. Let the window slide more easily up and down which also helped seat it. I installed the channel first and then adjusted the window with new window bushings. Nice and tight now
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
16,817
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polk county florida
When I did it on my hatch car, using a paint stirrer was a helpful tool. Side enough to bear down on the channel and not bust through.

What also helped was spraying the channels with silicone spray where the glass runs. Let the window slide more easily up and down which also helped seat it. I installed the channel first and then adjusted the window with new window bushings. Nice and tight now
make sure the paint on the stick is dry first.
 

billison

I like tinted tail
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For the rivets, I used 1/8 x 1-2 with the rivet washers. Not sure what factory size was but this works.
 
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