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vortech aftercooler.... worth it?

  • Thread starter Thread starter UnderPressureGT
  • Start date Start date Sep 12, 2004

UnderPressureGT

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Dec 31, 2002
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Sep 12, 2004
#1
  • Sep 12, 2004
  • #1
I have an A trim right now putting 5 pounds out.. soon to be upped to 8-9.. my quesiton is..... is the aftercooler worth the 1550??? is it easy to install and are the power gains big?? thanks.. it would seem obviously worth it if it cools down the intake as much as it says.. that do you guys think?
 

65ShelbyClone

Founding Member
Sep 9, 2000
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Sep 12, 2004
#2
  • Sep 12, 2004
  • #2
I think thats alot of money for a air to water intercooler. Its good because it is reasonably drop-in, but you could put together a nice FMIC for less.
 

Rick 91GT

Mustang Master
Nov 29, 1999
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Sep 12, 2004
#3
  • Sep 12, 2004
  • #3
Air to Water is much better then Air to Air, and $1500 is cheap for what you get. Air to water is only good if you change the water/ice. A air to air set-up is better for the daily driven street car. I think Vortech has a kit, I know Paxton does and they are all the same company now. I'd call and ask.......

I don't think it is a good idea for you with your A-trim since you will lose atleast 3 pounds of boost. The slight gain you'll see there since your spinning the blower higher will be minimal with the rise in air temp. If you had an S-trim, I's say go for it if you like the unit. Once you start changing pullies and spinning a A-trim higher then create an extreme amount of heat.

An air to air will run you around $600-$1000 for a good unit, then you will need to fab all your pipes, get a blowthrough MAF, blow off valve etc...
 

Michael Yount

Mustang Master
Apr 10, 2002
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Sep 12, 2004
#4
  • Sep 12, 2004
  • #4
Rick is right (as usual) - the trade off on any cooler is the drop in intake temp vs. the drop in boost due to intake air flow losses through the cooler. Ask lots of questions from the supplier. You'll pick up 1/2%-1% HP for each 10F drop in intake temp that you achieve by installing the cooler. So you need to know what your boost output temps are, and how efficient the cooler is at removing heat. Compare the gains there to the loss of boost that occurs when you run the flow through the cooler. The cooler also provides some safety margin regarding detonation. A cooler charge will allow you to run more timing, and a less rich (more power) mixture without fear of detonation.

Keep in mind the location of the cooler. Placed in front of the radiator, the hotter air off the cooler makes the radiator less efficient - be sure you have enough excess radiator capacity to deal with the lower temperature difference if you mount any other cooler in front of it.
 

UnderPressureGT

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#5
  • Sep 12, 2004
  • #5
Rick 91GT said:
Air to Water is much better then Air to Air, and $1500 is cheap for what you get. Air to water is only good if you change the water/ice. A air to air set-up is better for the daily driven street car. I think Vortech has a kit, I know Paxton does and they are all the same company now. I'd call and ask.......

I don't think it is a good idea for you with your A-trim since you will lose atleast 3 pounds of boost. The slight gain you'll see there since your spinning the blower higher will be minimal with the rise in air temp. If you had an S-trim, I's say go for it if you like the unit. Once you start changing pullies and spinning a A-trim higher then create an extreme amount of heat.

An air to air will run you around $600-$1000 for a good unit, then you will need to fab all your pipes, get a blowthrough MAF, blow off valve etc...
Click to expand...

Rick actually.. i think i may stay speed density, unless the challenge gets too high in money to get it right... but i think this should work just fine,.. I am gonna rebuild the motor .030 over with thumpers, TFS track heat manifold (1500-6500 rpm) and a crower 15511 cam (1500-6500) and i will pulley the blower to 8-9 pounds and ill keep the BOV vented to the atmosphere.. I know its not a GREAT combo, but i think i can pull off impressive times for the buck.

right now it is actually running good speed density, despite my blown intake and distributer seals. the only disadvantage is that i am fast until i shift a gear, then im back to a 14.7 second car until im in boost... I raced an LT1 camaro last night from a r0oll in second at 3K rpm... i totally flew by him... then as soon as i shifted to 3rd, he flew by me until 3K rpm in 3rd and i took 3rd all the way out to 5 pounds of boost at 5500 rpm and i was goneeeee.. thats the crappy thing about having a stock motor.. its a back and forth race.

about the aftercooler... your saying an air to air would be more beneficial?
 
D

Daggar

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Jul 19, 2004
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Sep 12, 2004
#6
  • Sep 12, 2004
  • #6
Air to air for street use as stated before. Air to water aftercoolers get heat saturated (just like the water in your radiator does) and looses effeciency the warmer it gets. I run a Kenne Bell Blowzilla SC. For the street, I think it's the best deal going. I get boost just off idle and am at full boost at 2100 RPM at WOT. Even rolling on the gas, it feels like a gunshot when the boost kicks in. No aftercooler but the discharge temp from the twinscrew is considerably cooler that what you get from a centrifigal.
 
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