Walk me through a clutch install.
- Thread starter tylerrocks
- Start date
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/173_0307_five_tranny_mustangs/index2.html
and
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/41438/index.html
Pretty basic, besides dealing with the major components. Drop the driveshaft, drain the transmission, disconnect the linkage, unbolt the spedo cable, unbolt the trans mount and bellhousing, drop the trans, unbolt the pressure plate, check the flywheel for flatness, surface if needed, remove the old pilot bearing, remove throw out bearing, use lock tite, and torque to spec and reverse the order of what I said with your new parts. REALLLLL SIMPLE......
Honestly, besides handling the heavy parts underneath a car it is not too complicated just use that alignment tool and folllow a shop manual.
and
http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/41438/index.html
Pretty basic, besides dealing with the major components. Drop the driveshaft, drain the transmission, disconnect the linkage, unbolt the spedo cable, unbolt the trans mount and bellhousing, drop the trans, unbolt the pressure plate, check the flywheel for flatness, surface if needed, remove the old pilot bearing, remove throw out bearing, use lock tite, and torque to spec and reverse the order of what I said with your new parts. REALLLLL SIMPLE......
Honestly, besides handling the heavy parts underneath a car it is not too complicated just use that alignment tool and folllow a shop manual.
69Rcode_Mach1
Active Member
It can be a big deal, it is fairly simple though. It is just one of those things that takes time to do yourself because of lack of things like a hydraulic lift and whatnot. It's moving around all that hardware that makes it a huge pain. I would definitely do it, and it can easily be done in a day if done without any hiccups.
If you only have one day off to do the job, you'd better hold off, unless you can afford to be without the car for those two more weeks. If your flywheel needs to be resurfaced, then that's going to cost you at least one more day to do the job. Unless you have a really good friend who's got the machinery to do the resurfacing on demand, and not many do, bringing it to a shop to get that done will take at least that one extra day. You can also get by without draining the oil from it, if you have an extra driveshaft yoke and a cutoff speedo cable end to plug these openings. And one more tidbit: take at least two long small block head bolts ( the early ones are the best) cut off the heads and these will make dandy transmission alignment dowels when it comes to stabbing the trans back into the bell. Screw these into the two top transmission bolt holes in the bell and slide the trans onto them then stab it into place.
Yeah, I have a little nissan pickup for a backup vehicle. I had to take a 3 hr brake but Im about to get back out there. Right now Im ready to take the transmission out, the work done so far has all been supprisingly easy. I was uhhh.... suprised at how loose the torque ratings have been so far, makes work easier.
tyler
tyler
Ok here is my situation. I was having trouble getting the tranny out, so I was useing a rubber mallet when I hit the casting where the bolt hole (to the bellhousing) is and broke it off. It broke right thru the middle of the bolt hole, its like a cut-out view of the bolt hole, a half cylinder. I Knew I ******* up and had a few choice words to tell myself. I got to thinkin though, If I put the bolt in the same place where it was supposed to go and just let it ride in the half-hole, would I be able to drive is untill I get a t-5 in (6-8 weeks)? It seems like it would support against some torque.
NEXT, The clutch I was installing was a King Cobra. My question is: Are all king cobras created alike? I know there are people who run them in vintage stangs. I bought my clutch and t-5 at the same time from a local mustanger with an 87 5.0. I just assumed it would fit (dumbass) The KC clutch is approx 3/4" bigger in total diameter than my current, and the pressure plate has a diffrent bolt pattern. DAAAAAMMMMMMNN.
The surface of the flywheel felt smooth, the clutch has bitten down into it by approx .04.
I probly should have asked these questions before. I think I am experinecing clutch chatter. It feels like extreme wheel hop and I am the only person who can drive the car without being shaken to death. I have to dump the clutch or let it out without thottle. It only happens when I take off from stop, less so if Im rolling a little or starting down hill, more so when I go from stop pointed uphill.
Dose this sound like clutch chatter?
Under what condition dose clutch catter occur?
Would the flywheel/clutch have any special wear pattern if expreiencing chatter?
Thanks
NEXT, The clutch I was installing was a King Cobra. My question is: Are all king cobras created alike? I know there are people who run them in vintage stangs. I bought my clutch and t-5 at the same time from a local mustanger with an 87 5.0. I just assumed it would fit (dumbass) The KC clutch is approx 3/4" bigger in total diameter than my current, and the pressure plate has a diffrent bolt pattern. DAAAAAMMMMMMNN.
The surface of the flywheel felt smooth, the clutch has bitten down into it by approx .04.
I probly should have asked these questions before. I think I am experinecing clutch chatter. It feels like extreme wheel hop and I am the only person who can drive the car without being shaken to death. I have to dump the clutch or let it out without thottle. It only happens when I take off from stop, less so if Im rolling a little or starting down hill, more so when I go from stop pointed uphill.
Dose this sound like clutch chatter?
Under what condition dose clutch catter occur?
Would the flywheel/clutch have any special wear pattern if expreiencing chatter?
Thanks
pabear89
Active Member
For your broken bell bolt hole,
You can use epoxy and repair it temp. put some grease on the threads when you put the bolt in and cememt the broken peice back over it.
the grease will help keep the cement from curing on the bolt.
As for clutch chatter,
Check the flywheel surface for discolored heated spots,
the clutch plate for worn friction material spots.
check the pressure plate for marks from clutch plate.
Chatter is from the clutch plate getting grabbed by the flywheel or pressure plate, weak or broken pressure plate springs will also cause this.
PB
You can use epoxy and repair it temp. put some grease on the threads when you put the bolt in and cememt the broken peice back over it.
the grease will help keep the cement from curing on the bolt.
As for clutch chatter,
Check the flywheel surface for discolored heated spots,
the clutch plate for worn friction material spots.
check the pressure plate for marks from clutch plate.
Chatter is from the clutch plate getting grabbed by the flywheel or pressure plate, weak or broken pressure plate springs will also cause this.
PB
coolblue65
Founding Member
From what I can remember back when I researched my clutch before buying it, is that late model 5.0 clutches do not work on early flywheels.
I believe an early model stock clutch was 10" and the biggest you can bolt on is a 10.5" where a late model I am pretty sure stock is 10.5" and can be upgraded to a 11".
I know they sell dual bolt pattern flywheels so you can use late or early style clutches.
I believe an early model stock clutch was 10" and the biggest you can bolt on is a 10.5" where a late model I am pretty sure stock is 10.5" and can be upgraded to a 11".
I know they sell dual bolt pattern flywheels so you can use late or early style clutches.
If you're going to sell the Toploader, don't sweat the broken bolt hole. David Kee of 4speedtoploaders.com will buy it as is. As for your flywheel, I'd recommend buying a new one. If yours was resurfaced any in the past, and it now needs about .050-.060 to clean up now, you're skating on thin ice after that.tylerrocks said:
jcode68
Active Member
1)yes, sounds like you have extreme clutch chatter. Could be caused by a number of things, but most likely contamination and worn flywheel.
2)The KC 10.5" clutch is meant to fit the later model flywheels. I don't know for sure if it will or won't work on an early style FW.
3)If I were you, I would drive you Nissan truck for the next 6 weeks until you are ready to install the T5 transmission. No sense doing this job twice and you will need to track down all the parts needed for the job.
Take some time and search this forum. There are a ton of threads on doing this swap so you can make a complete list of parts required ahead of time. Good luck.
2)The KC 10.5" clutch is meant to fit the later model flywheels. I don't know for sure if it will or won't work on an early style FW.
3)If I were you, I would drive you Nissan truck for the next 6 weeks until you are ready to install the T5 transmission. No sense doing this job twice and you will need to track down all the parts needed for the job.
Take some time and search this forum. There are a ton of threads on doing this swap so you can make a complete list of parts required ahead of time. Good luck.
69Rcode_Mach1
Active Member
For sure man, if you are going to be doing all this stuff then I highly recommend waiting, it will save you time and money.
MustangMatt1966
New Member
you defiantely have clutch chatter..i was in the same situation...when i went to start off it would feel like wheel hop, but bad...so when at the track i had to dump the clutch to keep it from shaking my teeth out...put a new clutch in and looked at the flywheel and it had multiple hot spots on it..so i got it resurfaced and i havent had a single problem yet..
Awesome. I had planned on just driving the truck but great to see a unanimous confirmation.
Actually D, It's a side loader (is that a correct term?) 3 speed.
Good thing I have a late model flywheel on hand, but wait, aren't late model FWs 50 oz? I have/will have a 28oz crank! What now oh STANGNET? you guys really are awesome. anyways just more money out of my pocket. Can you get a late model FW in 28oz? Maybe I ought to just get an aluminum FW
Tyler
Actually D, It's a side loader (is that a correct term?) 3 speed.
Good thing I have a late model flywheel on hand, but wait, aren't late model FWs 50 oz? I have/will have a 28oz crank! What now oh STANGNET? you guys really are awesome. anyways just more money out of my pocket. Can you get a late model FW in 28oz? Maybe I ought to just get an aluminum FW
Tyler
Ok, since it's a Borg Warner type 3 speed (? Not real sure what 3 speed you have) Just leave the broken part as is. Gluing it ain't gonna help, maybe only to support the flat washer under the bolt, but it'll fall off eventuallytylerrocks said:
I have the same problem with my clutch. When I take off from a start the
back end feels like wheel hop. Im in the process of doing a clutch job on
mine. I bought a new flywheel on Ebay for $135.00 including shipping. Im
not sure of the quality of the flywheel but Im crossing my fingers. Thanks
for the tip on the head bolts. When I pulled the Transmission a few years
back it was a real Pain getting it back in. I also bought a transmission jack
to attach to my floor jack to make it a little easier this time around. I
was going to run a diaphraphm clutch and leaning towards a centerforce.
Hope this helps
Steve69
back end feels like wheel hop. Im in the process of doing a clutch job on
mine. I bought a new flywheel on Ebay for $135.00 including shipping. Im
not sure of the quality of the flywheel but Im crossing my fingers. Thanks
for the tip on the head bolts. When I pulled the Transmission a few years
back it was a real Pain getting it back in. I also bought a transmission jack
to attach to my floor jack to make it a little easier this time around. I
was going to run a diaphraphm clutch and leaning towards a centerforce.
Hope this helps
Steve69
If you go with a Centerforce dual friction clutch, let me give you a bit of warning: you're not going to like it right off the bat, it WILL though wear in and drive normally after a few dozen ( or more) releases. With a new flywheel ( or one that's been resurfaced) it tends to grab right off the bat, there ain't no easy releasing it
when it hits, it hits.
It just takes patience till it wears in. It will not slip like the factory clutches after wearing in. I've got one behind my 331 and it handles it's torque like no other.
when it hits, it hits. It just takes patience till it wears in. It will not slip like the factory clutches after wearing in. I've got one behind my 331 and it handles it's torque like no other.Similar threads
