want 351 in 93lx, how hard???

Possibly oil pan, 351 swap headers, front dress brackets, hood(clearance) are a few. If you go with a 351 block you may want to consider a stroker kit. 377/392/398/408/410 are just a few.
If you wanted to skip all that you can go with a 302 based stroker like the 331/337/347/355. You'd be able to re-use all your existing parts.
I'd love to drop in a 398 into my 93 Cobra!
 
I am converting by '82 now. You need an oil pan, oil pickup, and dipstick (comes in a kit from Ford Motorsports $130.) You will need a 28 oz imbalance flywheel to replace your 5.0 50oz imbalance one. You will need a 351 distributor. I assume you know that you'll need an intake and headers too. You cannot use either from your 5.0. Hood and some brackets for your PS are also needed on later model foxes. It is a very easy swap. Bellhousing, transmission, engine mounts, are all the same.

I have a flywheel, you can get a dist from the wrecking yard for $25.
 
my car isnt a 5.0l so i dont have much 5.0 stuff except a few stuff from my 86 notch like a starter and a old school remand distributor and a c-4 tranny that i would rather not use since i want to go stick. does the flywheel on a 351 work???you know if i get a 351 that already has a flywheel on it. and what about putting a clutch pedal in a auto stang, is this too much work???is there a factory hole there already? with a 4 barrel can i clear the hood?are the headers special or just basic 351 headers???thanks for the info. if youre giving away the flywheel ill take it, dont really need it right now though. i just lost my job and im not goning to be able to buy a motor anytime soon till i find a new job. thanks
 
it can be done under a stock hood with a little work, but a small cowl is a lot easier. Also the pan/pickup can be gotten from other sources for less, it was OEM on the crown vic. in the late 80's/early 90's.
 
4bang93stang said:
cool, what do u have done so far??
um well i'm at square one with the block. I still need to get it checked for OK and then buy my kit. I've reserchered a couple on the kits and have found the one i'm getting. So i'm shooting for the end of this year to begining of next year to have it rollin! I have a stock 2 barrel intake for a 351 and a stock oil pan you can have if ya want? I dont know if the oil pan will work for your needs but all i'm gonna do is take it to work and scrap it next week like i did the rest of the engine. peace



john:p
 
Sweet!
This thread is like a 351w swap club :hail2:

I have done a fairly detailed writeup that is on my site. I can't get to my site while I am at work, but there is a link in my sig.

There are some options out there, which only adds to the fun :nice:

jason
 
SMOKEDYA said:
um well i'm at square one with the block. I still need to get it checked for OK and then buy my kit. I've reserchered a couple on the kits and have found the one i'm getting. So i'm shooting for the end of this year to begining of next year to have it rollin! I have a stock 2 barrel intake for a 351 and a stock oil pan you can have if ya want? I dont know if the oil pan will work for your needs but all i'm gonna do is take it to work and scrap it next week like i did the rest of the engine. peace



john:p

Don't forget to drill the block for the roller spider. It takes two minutes to drill and tap; I recommend you drill all the way through the cam bearings. You may not use roller lifters but it's nice to have the option.
 
stock50LX said:
Don't forget to drill the block for the roller spider. It takes two minutes to drill and tap; I recommend you drill all the way through the cam bearings. You may not use roller lifters but it's nice to have the option.
I dont understand? I've never heard this before? peace



john:p
 
SMOKEDYA said:
I dont understand? I've never heard this before? peace



john:p

If you want to use the factory 302 roller lifters you need to use the lifter spider and dogbones.

I am not sure why it was suggested to drill all the way through to the cam bearings, other than maximizing thread length. I didn't drill all the way through on mine, but I did use some thread locker.

Obviously, the cam should be removed when drilling. Also, drill the holes before installing the new cam bearings.

jason