Want nitrous, wet or dry?

[DDSTANG94]

lol


If you spent more time learning instead of being a pest you might could figure out how to install a camshaft and heads yourself. Its not that hard.

maybe u should spend more time learning before u post incorrect information

break down the steps on degreeing a cam for me....cus u must no ur **** when it comes to building motors, i no this becuase u got the basics down pat..

then ill school u on the firing order on a 5.0 http://forums.stangnet.com/752769-someone-school-me-firing-order.html

its not that hard

 

[95Vert]

Discussion is good. Thanks for info.

Sorry, I should've given more info on my combo. My sig says having to start from scratch because I got dealt a bad deal on my gt40 heads. I now bought a coupe that comes with my SN's future motor, stock 302 with 119,xxx miles.

I will be running a Down's Ford bread box (don't see puddling issues there), ported cobra lower, 24lb injectors, 90mm TB, LMAF, TFS TW Heads, full exhaust with long tube headers, 3550 tranny, 4.10s, and a CI custom cam.

I'm not new to the N/A class, just new to the nitrous class.

 

[Black95GTS]

I was talking about Low-5.0 would max out his 42lb injectors. They are only good to around 500-530rwhp depending on who you talk to.

You are wrong again dude. I'm sorry, this is not personal, but Low5.0 is running about 520 fly wheel horse power, if we are assuming a 15 percent loss through the drive train.

A 100 shot will give him about 620 fly wheel horse power. Once again, by bumping the pressure to 55PSI, and assuming a BSFC of .50, 42 pound fuel injectors will EASILY support 620 fly wheel horse power and run under 90 percent duty cycle.

In all serious, I suggest you do some more research into nitrous technology, fuel injectors, and other supporting hardware before you post increasingly false information.

Adam

 

[DDSTANG94]

black95gts > stopsign32v

 

[Zero_chance]

I read the entire post and Im still not sure which is better....

 

[Black95GTS]

I read the entire post and Im still not sure which is better....

Depends on your application. In my opinion, the dry kit is the way to go for anything 150shot and under. Its easier to install and at a 150 shot that is about as much as I'd want to stress the Hypeuritic (sp?) piston. It's also easier to remove. It's also safer; you are not playing with fuel, just nitrous.

Videos you see of people blowing the intake manifold off of their car are usually wet kits. Improper installation results in fuel puddling in the intake manifold, which detonates before it fills the cylinder. Bang.

I still don't understand the arguments below that wet kits are safer. This is ridiculous to me. The dry kit has to be safer by design: it is keeping the fuel in the fuel lines and air in the manifold. Nitrous Oxide makes the car go faster because of the OXYGEN, not the Nitrogen. Air is 21 percent oxygen, N2O is 33 percent oxygen. It is the increased oxygen that is more combustible. More oxygen + more fuel = more power. Nitrogen just carries it; nitrogen itself is inert. Dry kits CAN NOT "puddle" in the intake manifold. It's basically pure air you are adding in a dry kit, the wet kit is adding fuel and air in the manifold, and that is what can puddle.

Adam

 

[1slow95]

Sorry for the confusion guys.

So a dry kit with 100 shot would be ok for me if the 255lb fuel pump can handle ~620hp?

Not that I can afford this right now. I've got other parts that need upgrading first. I was having a discussion with my cousin about nitrous the other day and that put this idea in my head. He's got a '00 GT 5.4L 2V and he's wanting to use about a 75-100 shot on it.

 

[Zero_chance]

Did some research Adam and you are definitely right on with everything youve said. Even the manufacturers specify that the dry kits are easier and safer for "first timers." Wet kits can push more power it seems but, like you said, with stock parts, how high do you really want to go?

 

[Black95GTS]

Sorry for the confusion guys.

So a dry kit with 100 shot would be ok for me if the 255lb fuel pump can handle ~620hp?

Not that I can afford this right now. I've got other parts that need upgrading first. I was having a discussion with my cousin about nitrous the other day and that put this idea in my head. He's got a '00 GT 5.4L 2V and he's wanting to use about a 75-100 shot on it.

Walbro In-tank, high-pressure Fuel Pumps

The Walbro 255 pump is good for roughly 600 horse at 55PSI. I think if I were you, I would not risk it and would upgrade. I think a twin 190 setup would work well.

Also... I think you are damn near the limit on the stock fuel lines / rails / etc if you hadn't upgraded those any way. You'd have to redo those anyway.

Why the hell do you need an extra 100 shot!?!? You are spoiled!

Adam

 

[Pokageek]

Totally correct. The dry system "fools" the pressure regulator into thinking it has a stiffer spring, thus increasing pressure during activation.

Wet systems send an air / fuel mixture into the manifold as well... so I don't see your point. Nitrous and or Nitrous / Fuel can puddle with EITHER system.

I believe the nitrous system you are talking about is direct port injection, which when used in an EFI sense would have individual nozzles for each cylinder, and I don't think the poster intends on running a 350 shot with multiple stages on a stock block and rotating assembly. This is also $$$$.

My point being, that a dry system will give the poster all of the horse power that his pistons can handle, and is easier to install, and costs about the same. The wet system is ultimately a better system, but for his purpose dry would be my choice.

Adam

Good post. I had the dry kit. SUPER easy to install. The 100HP nozzle took my 306 from 290rwhp to 348rwhp and 309rwtq to 379rwtq. THREE GTOCHAS TO WATCH OUT FOR.

#1 Why not 100 all the way around? We're talkin rw BUT the kits advertise whp.
#2 My compression was 10.5 :1 so we had to dumb down the timing thus lowering HP before actually raising it with the kit.
#3 Nitrous CAN BLOW out your cats!! I had nice EXPENSIVE bullts on there too. Hard lesson to learn.

Low, you are at 540-550 +whp now. With 100 dry you will be at prolly 620whp easy.

 

[1slow95]

Yeah, stock fuel lines and rails here. This sounds like it could be an expensive adventure, definitely out of my price range at the moment. Thanks for the info though.

And why do I need an extra 100hp?? Because 449rwhp is starting to feel slow.

 

[Pokageek]

Don't worry about the jones's man. You forget you are running with a killer crowd.

 

[Danman765432]

Ill just add in one thing, if you are on a stock block with hyper pistons, as stated above, a dry kit will probably be better for you. You should be able to safely go up to a 125 shot with the right fuel system provided. Also if you get a dry kit, make yours like the NOS 5115 or actually get that kit itself.

Now if you have a forged block and you want to spray it above a 125 shot, I would recommend getting an upper to lower intake manifold plate kit. Plate kits are obviously a wet kit but, it eliminates the possible puddling issue. Also plate kits also are made for nitrous shots 150 or higher.

Other things a long with a nitrous kit that you would want to have:

- WOT switch or TPS activation
- Window Switch should be a must
- Bottle heater with a regulated pressure hookup - Meaning it will keep the pressure in the bottle between a certain range.
- Purge valve to release the air in the system so you only have nitrous
- Fuel Pressure Safety switch is a good idea incase the fuel pump craps on you
- Gauges on the pillar (I have them there so I can see what my nitrous pressure is at and also to make sure my fuel pressure spikes when it should)

-Dan

 

[revhead347]

Either way a 100 dry shot will put his 42lb injectors over 100% duty cycle. No reason not to go with a wet kit here. No reason at all.

The NOS dry system has no effect on the duty cycle of the injectors, unless you push it to over 90 PSI of fuel pressure which sometimes causes the injectors to lock open.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

I don't think you really can say much in support of a wet kit other than it's easier to tune. The NOS dry kit is the best for small shots. It's easy to install, and not too hard to tune. No fuel puddling and better atomization. It's going to give you better power for less wear. The only downside to NOS kits, are the solenoids. NOS solenoids are kind of sub par. I finally got sick of rebuilding mine, and put NX solenoids in them.

Kurt

 

[Danman765432]

Thats what I did. I made the NOS 5115 kit with n/x parts

 

[Methodical]

Wet nitrous kit. Get a purge, bottle heater, TPS activation switch (I don't like WOT switches), and MSD window switch and set it to come on at 3,250rpms and off at whatever RPMS you want it to turn off at. that way if you miss a gear you are ok...

TIP: go to www.Nitrousdave.comD o www.dDynotTune.com and get the dual window switch. It has the tps activation switch, window switch, mulity gear lock out and it's 2 stage. Cost less than all these same components purchased separately and is about the size of pack of cigeratte box. I have mine installed in the arm console - Nice

Now onto whether wet or dry. I can only give you my reasoning as to why I went wet. I have 24lb injectors and with the H/C/I my injectors were being taxed - not maxed - but taxed. Initially I wanted the dry system but because of the above, I was forced to go with a wet system. I did not want to step up to 30lbs and have to retune my car because it took me awhile to tune with the 24s. I started with the 50 shot while checking the AFR with the wideband and spark. I know its a small shot but I like to start more conservatively. I will work my way up to 125 and then maybe 150 depending on how I like the 125. So if you have larger injectors you may want to consider the dry stuff. Also, visit this site www.nitrousforum.com. There lots of folks running dry kits and swear by them plus they provide technical information on the dry stuff as well as the wet. Also check out www.corral.net they have a nitrous specific forum.
Good luck. Just think twice and act once.

 

[Methodical]

... I'm not sure why anyone would run a dry setup. It can peg your MAF and you will need bigger injectors. A wet system eliminates both issues...

From my understanding the MAF will not be pegged because you are not forcing air pass it like a SC etc. The nitrous is providing a cooling affect not forced air.

 

[Danman765432]

I know on our cars you can't spray through the MAF you have to spray after. I also know on LS1s you can just spray right through the MAF (my brother had nitrous on his) The MAF then will add the correct amount of fuel.

 

[revhead347]

You can spray through the MAF on our cars, it's just a ****ty way of doing it. I remember NitrousWorks used to have a cheap system like that. I think Hot Rod Magazine ran a test of that kit on a 95' Mustang GT years ago. There is also a ColdFusion kit on the internet that uses a rebuilt solenoid, and it also sprays through the MAF. It's these kits that give dry kits a bad name. I swear by my NOS setup. In my opinion it's best way to spray a "small" shot of nitrous on a car with a really long convuluted intake runner setup like our cars. I have had friends spray up to a 225 shot on an NOS dry kit, so I would say the definition of "small" varies. I bought my kit for $150 used jetted for an 80 shot. I took it to the track that first week with no tuning at all, and dropped a second of my ET, and up 9 mph.

Kurt