Build Thread Want To Blow 5 Years And $50k On A Foxbody? Step By Step Instructions Inside!

[Noobz347]

I think that the both of you need to get together and perfect your respective skill sets.

Take my car and this drawing as my donation to the effort. Just have it back to me in 6 months or less.

kthxbai

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Did you hog out the throttle body opening of the Holley intake? I ask because when I bought the Holley intake it had a 70MM opening only. It looks like your throttle body is bigger than 70MM.

Man, everything really looks great. I agree about exhaust coating. I had too many exhaust systems turn blue. My last set of headers 1-3/4" Ceramic Long Tubes were ceramic and never blued.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

I had to grind the intake a little, but not open it from 70mm to 75mm. TB is an Accufab race body, so it has a 90mm mouth and a 75mm opening on the intake side. My Holley intake is exactly 75mm large so it matched perfectly with the TB, but I had to clean up some areas in the casting that were a little smaller deeper in the mouth of the intake. The actual opening on mine is 75mm though. Maybe at some point Holley changed the opening from 70mm to 75mm?

 

[RacEoHolic330]

I think that the both of you need to get together and perfect your respective skill sets.

Take my car and this drawing as my donation to the effort. Just have it back to me in 6 months or less.

kthxbai

Where's the drawing?? You gotta give me something to work with here.

 

[Noobz347]

Where's the drawing?? You gotta give me something to work with here.

It's currently glued to the car.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I found it,...(he forgot he sent it to me) Lucky 4 you Noobz I had a copy!

 

[RacEoHolic330]

It's unfortunate that he also seems to have a penis for a right arm.

Now that I have a picture, I'll get right on your project Noobz as soon as I'm done with mine...promise. Looks like you will need some reinforced seats for all that junk in your trunk.

 

[RacEoHolic330]

So after I had already welded the large holes near the brake booster location, I decided that I didn't like how that area looked. Cut out a piece of sheet metal to cover everything up.

Cleaned up the brake booster mounting reinforcement plate

Cut a crude template

Made the crude template better

Transferred to sheet metal

I didn't weld it on yet due to the 90% humidity today, painting the area behind the sheet metal was not an option. It will have to wait for another day...

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

So after I had already welded the large holes near the brake booster location, I decided that I didn't like how that area looked. Cut out a piece of sheet metal to cover everything up.

Cleaned up the brake booster mounting reinforcement plate

Cut a crude template

Made the crude template better

Transferred to sheet metal

I didn't weld it on yet because due to the 90% humidity today, painting the area behind the sheet metal was not an option. It will have to wait for another day...

#1. Do I have to tell you that they make weld through coating so you can paint an area w/ it, and then weld a patch panel on top
of it right through the paint?

#2. How did you get rid of all of that body seam sealer around that area that you are depicting to be able to weld your patch panel in place?

#3. Your so pre-occupied w/ filling holes,...where are the wires that are supposed to go to the engine coming out from?

Uhhh,...Good work?

 

[RacEoHolic330]

1. Yea, I use that stuff, but when the air is so humid that my paper templates are curling up in front of my eyes, I figured it's best not to spary any kind of paint until I get a less humid day. The humidity is becoming such an issue that I am actually going to have to spray the bare car body in a light coat of SEM rattle can primer to protect it. I am starting to see some tiny rust spots. My dehumidifier cannot keep up anymore.

2. I used a small cone-shape carbide bit on the end of a drill. The seam sealer came off beautifully. I did learn in other areas that seam sealer likes to catch on fire when welding nearby, and man, it stinks like hell. Toxic, I'm sure.

3. Wires, what wires? I'm going carbed

 

[Noobz347]

It's unfortunate that he also seems to have a penis for a right arm.

It's a time saver.

3. Wires, what wires? I'm going carbed

Are you seriously? With the carb hat for the turbo and the whole nine yards?

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Nah, Mike is on a pro-carb kick in another thread, so I thought I'd humor him for a bit.

On a more serious note, I will be drilling two or three 1" holes on the top side of the transmission tunnel for the engine wiring. The lighting and other chassis wiring will come through a hole in the driver side footwell. I am also leaving those two factory oblonged-looking holes on each side of the engine bay near the firewall. I can use the passenger side one for brake lines, and possibly use the driver side for fuel lines.

 

[Noobz347]

Whew... thought I was going to have to ninja my picture back.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Carb = :ninja2:

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Slaved over the car some more today.

Here's an older picture showing the nice surprise behind the sheetmetal where the k-member mounts to the frame. The driver side was even worse.

Here are the tubular framerail supports

And then the framerail without the supports

My solution to this was to clean out the framerail, apply anti-rust paint, make new supports, weld them in, paint again, and then weld a new, stronger piece of sheet metal in to reinforce the framerail.

New supports

After some painting, welding, and more painting

Driver side

I figured that a good portion of the rust was to blame on the holes in the framerail directly under the strut tower. This area is constantly exposed to the elements while driving, so I decided to weld those holes up to eliminated the possibility of water sitting in that area anymore.

Here are the new pieces of sheet metal that I'll be welding in to box the framerail back together.

I also cut out and mocked up the passenger side sheet metal behind the strut tower. Didn't get around to welding it in yet though.

The last thing tonight was welding the pinch weld along the firewall. I had already trimmed it back to make it look a little better, but the two pieces of sheet metal were still visible and that was pissing me off, so I welded it up. It will be grinded down nicely and be given somewhat of a rounded bullnose edge.

I still can't believe how much work there is still left to do in the engine bay. Everytime I look around I find something else that needs attention. One day at a time!

 

[hsean]

one day at a time is the right way to do it

 

[David Pepiton]

very nice work man

 

[RacEoHolic330]

Mocked up the hydroboost unit and MC to make sure everything cleared. All is well in that department. Shouldn't have any issues with running the lines. I also won't be needing the stock-style prop valve anymore, so I will just need to find a spot to mount the Wilwood prop valve for the rear bias.

Got the framerail boxed in and welded up. I still need to cut out about 2" above it and replace that portion of the shock tower with new sheet metal. Once I do that, I can put one final piece of sheet metal over everything and smooth it all out.

Welded in the piece near the firewall.

I finally lost the battle against the humidity around here. The bare shell started to show signs of tiny rust spots. I was forced to sand everything down and shoot it with some primer to protect it from moisture. I had a feeling I wouldn't get away with leaving it bare for long.

 

[Noobz347]

I found it,...(he forgot he sent it to me) Lucky 4 you Noobz I had a copy!

This my first time seeing this. I always see this thread at work and imageshack is blocked.