Want to run with the BIG BOYS!

rugster

New Member
Aug 31, 2004
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Well, I had another rod bearing mishap (this one wasn't my fault) and I'm gona have to tear her down this winter again. But this time I'm putting it back together right....with forged internals. So who has the best stuff? Im looking for a forged crank, pistons, rods, and some good bearings/rings. Who has the best and how much should I be looking to spend? Any input would be great guys!:nice:
 
Ouch how did that happen? I had a rod bearing spin in my previous car (2000 celica gts) Not much fun. Were you running low on oil or something? It is essential that your new crank matches your new bearings, if not you will spin another right away. Good luck with the rebuild, how much is it gonna cost? Did it happen on your 2000 gt motor? if so how many miles and when did it happen.
 
yup it was low on oil...only about 2-3 quarts drained out today... in addition to some metal shavings. I dont know where all the oil went to be honest, I had oil pressure, I wasnt overdue for a change, and I wasnt burning any(no blue smoke). Im thinking the new setup will be around 1800 bucks from VT for their forged rotating assembly. Yes, it was the 2000 motor, I only had a chance to put about 4 thousand miles on it.:( This is the 2nd motor thats been trashed so the next one will be beefed up a bit.
 
Ford Racing Cobra crank
Manley or Eagle 4340 h beam rods with arp 2000 rod bolts
Diamond, CP, JE, Modmax, or Ross pistons
Clevite 77 bearings

just order a balanced rotating assembly from MMR, Livernois, Pro Line Race Engines, VT, etc.
 
You can buy the best parts but if you run low on oil they will be problems. Although there is a water / anti-freeze mixture running through the block the rod and crank bearings along with other parts are not only lubricated by the oil but cooled as well.
 
You can buy the best parts but if you run low on oil they will be problems. Although there is a water / anti-freeze mixture running through the block the rod and crank bearings along with other parts are not only lubricated by the oil but cooled as well.

I agree, all I meant is that by completely rebuilding the engine this time it will be more reliable than the used PI engine I bought:nice:
 
Don't waste your money buying the rotating assembly prebalanced. Buy an unbalanced assembly and take the crank, rods, pistons, harmonic balancer, and flywheel/flexplate to a machine shop to get it balanced all together. Balanced rotating assemblies you buy are not actually balanced, only the crank is. The pistons and rods will be within a gram or two but that can throw the balance off, especially when you add a harmonic balancer and flywheel to the mix. Do it right the first time.
 
5.0 modular stroker kit.

i dont see a power adder other than cams, so might as well get a little extra "oomph" to make use of those cams, plus would be really nice on the juice. unless you plan on going FI in the future, then id stick to stock bore/stroke. in which case id get Manley rods, Diamond or JE pistons, and a Cobra crank, like someone else said, Clevites and ARP's.

plus this way, you dont have to cringe anymore when people go "aww it aint no 5.0" after telling them its a 4.6 in all 96 and up stangs.
 
5.0 modular stroker kit.

i dont see a power adder other than cams, so might as well get a little extra "oomph" to make use of those cams, plus would be really nice on the juice. unless you plan on going FI in the future, then id stick to stock bore/stroke. in which case id get Manley rods, Diamond or JE pistons, and a Cobra crank, like someone else said, Clevites and ARP's.

plus this way, you dont have to cringe anymore when people go "aww it aint no 5.0" after telling them its a 4.6 in all 96 and up stangs.

So what kind of prep has to be done to the block in order to put a stroker in?