Want to run with the BIG BOYS!

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rugster

New Member

Aug 31, 2004

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Oct 22, 2007

#1

• Oct 22, 2007

• #1

Well, I had another rod bearing mishap (this one wasn't my fault) and I'm gona have to tear her down this winter again. But this time I'm putting it back together right....with forged internals. So who has the best stuff? Im looking for a forged crank, pistons, rods, and some good bearings/rings. Who has the best and how much should I be looking to spend? Any input would be great guys!

 

kylebgt

New Member

Jul 2, 2007

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Oct 22, 2007

#2

• Oct 22, 2007

• #2

Ouch how did that happen? I had a rod bearing spin in my previous car (2000 celica gts) Not much fun. Were you running low on oil or something? It is essential that your new crank matches your new bearings, if not you will spin another right away. Good luck with the rebuild, how much is it gonna cost? Did it happen on your 2000 gt motor? if so how many miles and when did it happen.

 

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rugster

New Member

Aug 31, 2004

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Oct 22, 2007

#3

• Oct 22, 2007

• #3

yup it was low on oil...only about 2-3 quarts drained out today... in addition to some metal shavings. I dont know where all the oil went to be honest, I had oil pressure, I wasnt overdue for a change, and I wasnt burning any(no blue smoke). Im thinking the new setup will be around 1800 bucks from VT for their forged rotating assembly. Yes, it was the 2000 motor, I only had a chance to put about 4 thousand miles on it. This is the 2nd motor thats been trashed so the next one will be beefed up a bit.

 

98GTfromGA

Founding Member

Mar 17, 2002

291

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44

Memphis

www.eccentrix.com

Oct 22, 2007

#4

• Oct 22, 2007

• #4

Ford Racing Cobra crank
Manley or Eagle 4340 h beam rods with arp 2000 rod bolts
Diamond, CP, JE, Modmax, or Ross pistons
Clevite 77 bearings

just order a balanced rotating assembly from MMR, Livernois, Pro Line Race Engines, VT, etc.

 

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BannonJr

Member

Aug 12, 2006

215

0

16

St.Lazare Quebec

www.woodsracing.ca

Oct 23, 2007

#5

• Oct 23, 2007

• #5

x2

 

Stan Weiss

Member

Dec 8, 2006

347

2

16

Philadelphia, PA

users.erols.com

Oct 23, 2007

#6

• Oct 23, 2007

• #6

You can buy the best parts but if you run low on oil they will be problems. Although there is a water / anti-freeze mixture running through the block the rod and crank bearings along with other parts are not only lubricated by the oil but cooled as well.

 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash

20+ Year Stangneter

Aug 10, 2002

9,457

1,377

234

Ontario, Canada

Oct 23, 2007

#7

• Oct 23, 2007

• #7

Manley beam rods with arp 2000 rod bolts
Diamond pistons
Clevite 77 bearings

Click to expand...

This is what my build consisted of. The Cobra Crank is overkill unless 600hp and/or a lot of high RPM use is in the future.

I got all my stuff here http://www.modularperformance.com/

 

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rugster

New Member

Aug 31, 2004

156

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Oct 23, 2007

#8

• Oct 23, 2007

• #8

Stan Weiss said:

You can buy the best parts but if you run low on oil they will be problems. Although there is a water / anti-freeze mixture running through the block the rod and crank bearings along with other parts are not only lubricated by the oil but cooled as well.

Click to expand...

I agree, all I meant is that by completely rebuilding the engine this time it will be more reliable than the used PI engine I bought

 

TweekedGT

New Member

Jul 22, 2004

1,274

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Alberta

Oct 23, 2007

#9

• Oct 23, 2007

• #9

Don't waste your money buying the rotating assembly prebalanced. Buy an unbalanced assembly and take the crank, rods, pistons, harmonic balancer, and flywheel/flexplate to a machine shop to get it balanced all together. Balanced rotating assemblies you buy are not actually balanced, only the crank is. The pistons and rods will be within a gram or two but that can throw the balance off, especially when you add a harmonic balancer and flywheel to the mix. Do it right the first time.

 

65fastback2+2

New Member

Aug 4, 2003

1,229

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Louisville, KY

www.hotdub.com

Oct 23, 2007

#10

• Oct 23, 2007

• #10

cobra/mach crank
manley h beams
diamond pistons

 

Gearbanger 101

Straight Outta Locash

20+ Year Stangneter

Aug 10, 2002

9,457

1,377

234

Ontario, Canada

Oct 24, 2007

#11

• Oct 24, 2007

• #11

65fastback2+2 said:

cobra/mach crank
manley h beams
diamond pistons

Click to expand...

Just as long as the Mach Crank was made for the 5-speed. The Auto's used nodular iron cranks, just like the 2V's.

 

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thomas91169

I'd donkey punch my sister.

Aug 19, 2005

0

0

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42

Modesto, CA

Oct 24, 2007

#12

• Oct 24, 2007

• #12

5.0 modular stroker kit.

i dont see a power adder other than cams, so might as well get a little extra "oomph" to make use of those cams, plus would be really nice on the juice. unless you plan on going FI in the future, then id stick to stock bore/stroke. in which case id get Manley rods, Diamond or JE pistons, and a Cobra crank, like someone else said, Clevites and ARP's.

plus this way, you dont have to cringe anymore when people go "aww it aint no 5.0" after telling them its a 4.6 in all 96 and up stangs.

 

R

rugster

New Member

Aug 31, 2004

156

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Oct 24, 2007

#13

• Oct 24, 2007

• #13

thomas91169 said:

5.0 modular stroker kit.

i dont see a power adder other than cams, so might as well get a little extra "oomph" to make use of those cams, plus would be really nice on the juice. unless you plan on going FI in the future, then id stick to stock bore/stroke. in which case id get Manley rods, Diamond or JE pistons, and a Cobra crank, like someone else said, Clevites and ARP's.

plus this way, you dont have to cringe anymore when people go "aww it aint no 5.0" after telling them its a 4.6 in all 96 and up stangs.

Click to expand...

So what kind of prep has to be done to the block in order to put a stroker in?