Warning Light Came On, Don't Know What It's For

demented22

demented22

Member
Nov 26, 2011
222
6
18
pittsburgh, pa
#1
So while in the parade at Carlisle, after numerous burnouts I had a light come on the dash. It's the furthest to the right, yellow and has I am guessing something to do with water and a fan in the center. after the car cooled down it stayed off. Any ideas?

And what a perfect time for my IAC to start acting up lol. Got there Thursday, and as I pulled into reg. the rpms hung at 1500, then dropped to like 400. So nice of my car!!
 

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#3
Sorry it has been a long weekend. It's a 2000 GT 5spd. Mods: 4.10's, cold air, prochamber, borla stingers, sct tuned. I was reving it the entire parade, and prob three to four clutch drops and two rolling burnouts. Yes all fluids are normal underhood. The coolant has a burnt smell to it.
 
#4
wmburns said:
I give up. What Model year car are we dealing with?

Did you check under the hood to see if all the fluid are OK? Especially the coolant level?

Here's some information on how to trouble shoot idle/IAC problems:
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...-dieing-idle-idling-rough-14.html#post2260649
Click to expand...
Also some more issues I found this weekend: cruise doesn't work and rear defroster does not either. This was the first major time I drove the car. All previous trips were short 5 mile trips. See above for vehicle info! Thank you
 
#5
2008-08-02_170219_1.png


11 - Low coolant warning
 
#7
Sounds like a coolant light...sorry if I stated the obvious. As in, something you already figured out.

Ya, maybe check the fuses on the defroster and what not. My cruise doesn't work either, but we found a random live wire not hooked on one end under my dash and are assuming that it is what goes to the cruise.
 
#9
FWIW, my low coolant light popped up a while back when all my fluids were normal...turned out the float in the coolant tank took a dump and dropped to the bottom causing the light to come on...i just unplugged the wiring and the light went away....that could have happened to you if all your fluids are normal
 
#10
Idk that just unhooking it is a good idea. Maybe as a temporary solution...but personally I'd see about getting that float fixed. Plus he did mention that his coolant seemed to have a burnt smell to it, although that could have to do with the float as well if it had faulty wiring or something like that.
 
#11
Meh...unhooking it isnt that big of a deal...as long as you check the fluids every now and then..

For me its not a big deal at all since my car has only been driven once in the past 3 months lol..plus when the turbo goes on ill be using the lethal performance black coolant tank which doesnt come with the sensor or float built in..

If the car is beat to death and a total pos then id say dont unplug it, but if its in good shape and doesnt ever leak then it wont be a horrible thing to do...things can happen at any time to any vehicle regardless the condition but in his case, if it is the sensor i think hed be ok
 
#13
Update: I drained the coolant, and flushed the system. Here is what I have now. I let the car run till hot. Temp gauge said nothing, but upper rad hose was hot..... then the gauge finally started to raise. I am suspecting the temp sensor is bad. Where is it located? BTW there was some nasty stuff comming out of there lol!

Second issue, ranging idle: I am pretty sure this car sat for a long time before I purchased it. This is due to the miles on carfax at registration renewall. About 1500 in 3 years. Then I bought it, stored it all winter, been working on it, and finally put about 500 miles on it last weekend. It seems like I have a miss now. It stubles when reved and I can hear a miss in the exhaust at the tips. Also how important are the rubber ends that connect the pvc and iac to the intake tube? Mine are hard and cracked. They will be replaced tomarrow. This weekend I plan on changing plugs and the temp sensor. Any thoughts???
 
#15
I hear alot of people going with the 170 degree thermostat. I think Reische Performance makes them. I would defenitely go to Ford if the cost is even close to the advance and autozones. I always prefer to go with OEM on stuff like that. Ebay is your friend for OEM parts, just search the Ford part no.
 
#16
demented22 said:
Update: I drained the coolant, and flushed the system. Here is what I have now. I let the car run till hot. Temp gauge said nothing, but upper rad hose was hot..... then the gauge finally started to raise. I am suspecting the temp sensor is bad. Where is it located? BTW there was some nasty stuff comming out of there lol!

Second issue, ranging idle: I am pretty sure this car sat for a long time before I purchased it. This is due to the miles on carfax at registration renewall. About 1500 in 3 years. Then I bought it, stored it all winter, been working on it, and finally put about 500 miles on it last weekend. It seems like I have a miss now. It stubles when reved and I can hear a miss in the exhaust at the tips. Also how important are the rubber ends that connect the pvc and iac to the intake tube? Mine are hard and cracked. They will be replaced tomarrow. This weekend I plan on changing plugs and the temp sensor. Any thoughts???
Click to expand...


when replacing your plugs, check the COP boots as well. if they are cracked then replace them. i would think that if the car sat a lot they may have become dry rotted and started cracking. once this happens you will get a miss. i bought all new boots from the autoparts store and i think it was around $40 for all 8. they came in a pack of 4 with new boots and springs...id replace them either way if it were me

as for the pcv, the rubber hose ends being cracked arent a big deal and should cause any drivability issues. it would still be a good idea to fix the hose ends anyway just in case
 
#17
Cool, I didn't know I could replace just the boots. I was looking at coils, have heard some bad issues with the cheaper ones and the MSD's are 4 bills ouch. picked up the temp sensor at Ford today $14, cheaper than advance haha. I also grabbed new orings for the injectors. Is it possible to change the plugs without removing the fuel rail? I know on my F150 I had to pull the rail. Also planning on steaming the engine bay Friday after work. Figured I am gana have everything apart this Sunday so I may as well clean it now.
 
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