could it be the pip?
iirc,when my pip was going bad before,the car would stall out and i would always get a bad fuel pump code.
was all good after i got the reman dizzy from autozone.
Look for the signal reading to go back and forth from 0.1 to 0.9 Volts quickly. I have the feeling that your O2 will either read open or will be stuck at about 0.45V (and won't have hardly any amplitude).
At the EEC, Pin 43 (red/blk) is the left HEGO.
Pin 44 (gray/lt blue) is the right HEGO (look at it for comparison if you like).
You could try to test these at the HEGO sensors themselves, but you end up sticking the wires and the HEGO wires are finicky about being punctured (special sheathing). I have not tried it yet but I kinda wanted to see if I could disconnect the connector (be sure your connectors are tight and clean inside, BTW) and get a jumper wire in there and then re-close the connector. The jumper would allow you to check voltage without messing with the wire insulation.
Anyhow, the reading should suck since you're generating a code. You'll know real quick. BTW, be sure the car is in closed loop when you check (let it idle for a few minutes before testing). O2s need to be at 600*F before their input is useful.
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heres my readings.
using a digital multimeter,set to 20v,ground to body.
pin 43-left o2,constant movement .01-.09,will stay at on value for a few seconds,but will move.
There's something wrong.
0.01 - 0.09 would be a dead O2 (reading exceptionally lean). As noted, you should have seen ~ readings from zero to almost one volt.
Since both O2s are acting up but you only spit one O2 code, there might have been an issue with the ground or the meter.
the only reason i washed the engine was i entered a Dyno Shootout.
i wanted it to look pretty.
hope i can get this thing running right by this saturday morning,or i can kiss my $65 goodbye.
just a recap of parts replaced,
TPS-idle was stuck at 1500rpm,tps voltage at 1.5v,could not adjust any lower.
new tps,set it to .94v
Reset Idle-reset idle with new tps,per RJ's instructions.
rock solid at 650rpm.
2 New O2 Sensors-got codes 177,172
Cleaned The Ground's-cleaned all i could find,and the pcm ground.
Added Engine To Body Ground-can never have enough.
Checked and cleaned all electrical connections in engine bay.
Checked all vacuum lines
Checked all fuses.
Wiggle Test-with car running,wiggled the poop out of all wiring.
no change in condition.
I drove around town for 10 miles.stop and go,and some long stretch's.
car ran great.
good acceleration,good idle,same power as before these stupid problems.
I'd want to re-check the O2's till a good reading is acquired. It sounds like they're doing ok (and it's a testing issue) but still...............
Be sure your chosen ground for the testing is good (ohm it out if in doubt. Look for less than 5 ohms of resistance when checking for continuity-to-ground for a ground).
Either there's a wiring issue, a sensor issue, a testing issue, or the meter doesn't have enough internal resistance and is creating hysteresis.
Please give us a recap of how it's acting up and when (at this point). This thread is long enough that I'm probably missing an important post of yours wherein an issue was cleared up or changed.
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thanks Hissin,i really appreciate your help.
it's most likely me thats the problem in the testing.
i'll update if the problem shows itself again or not.
i think its finally fixed.
so far i've driven a total of 60-65 miles so far with no problems.
i think it was a combo of problems.
1 being a bad TPS.
2 being bad O2's
Hissin,i'll check the O2 reading again this weekend.
i can borrow a better meter and make sure i have good grounds.
i'm almost positive the problem in the testing was me
and your right,i should recheck for a good reading on those O2's.
thank's everyone for your help.
hopefully this is the end of it.