washed engine,now problems
- Thread starter 94GTCoupe
- Start date
BlackVert
15 Year Member
note to self: never wash your engine 
dang man, sorry to hear about all this crap.
that doesn't sound like the pip, at least not to me
i'd try new hego sensors, or at least take these out and let it sit overnight so they will dry out and then put them back in.
dang man, sorry to hear about all this crap.
that doesn't sound like the pip, at least not to me
i'd try new hego sensors, or at least take these out and let it sit overnight so they will dry out and then put them back in.
Look for the signal reading to go back and forth from 0.1 to 0.9 Volts quickly. I have the feeling that your O2 will either read open or will be stuck at about 0.45V (and won't have hardly any amplitude).
At the EEC, Pin 43 (red/blk) is the left HEGO.
Pin 44 (gray/lt blue) is the right HEGO (look at it for comparison if you like).
You could try to test these at the HEGO sensors themselves, but you end up sticking the wires and the HEGO wires are finicky about being punctured (special sheathing). I have not tried it yet but I kinda wanted to see if I could disconnect the connector (be sure your connectors are tight and clean inside, BTW) and get a jumper wire in there and then re-close the connector. The jumper would allow you to check voltage without messing with the wire insulation.
Anyhow, the reading should suck since you're generating a code. You'll know real quick. BTW, be sure the car is in closed loop when you check (let it idle for a few minutes before testing). O2s need to be at 600*F before their input is useful.
At the EEC, Pin 43 (red/blk) is the left HEGO.
Pin 44 (gray/lt blue) is the right HEGO (look at it for comparison if you like).
You could try to test these at the HEGO sensors themselves, but you end up sticking the wires and the HEGO wires are finicky about being punctured (special sheathing). I have not tried it yet but I kinda wanted to see if I could disconnect the connector (be sure your connectors are tight and clean inside, BTW) and get a jumper wire in there and then re-close the connector. The jumper would allow you to check voltage without messing with the wire insulation.
Anyhow, the reading should suck since you're generating a code. You'll know real quick. BTW, be sure the car is in closed loop when you check (let it idle for a few minutes before testing). O2s need to be at 600*F before their input is useful.
There's something wrong.
0.01 - 0.09 would be a dead O2 (reading exceptionally lean). As noted, you should have seen ~ readings from zero to almost one volt.
Since both O2s are acting up but you only spit one O2 code, there might have been an issue with the ground or the meter.
0.01 - 0.09 would be a dead O2 (reading exceptionally lean). As noted, you should have seen ~ readings from zero to almost one volt.
Since both O2s are acting up but you only spit one O2 code, there might have been an issue with the ground or the meter.
hmm..any suggestions?
did i mention i hate electrical problems?
the only reason i washed the engine was i entered a Dyno Shootout.
i wanted it to look pretty.
hope i can get this thing running right by this saturday morning,or i can kiss my $65 goodbye.
just a recap of parts replaced,
TPS-idle was stuck at 1500rpm,tps voltage at 1.5v,could not adjust any lower.
new tps,set it to .94v
Reset Idle-reset idle with new tps,per RJ's instructions.
rock solid at 650rpm.
2 New O2 Sensors-got codes 177,172
Cleaned The Ground's-cleaned all i could find,and the pcm ground.
Added Engine To Body Ground-can never have enough.
Checked and cleaned all electrical connections in engine bay.
Checked all vacuum lines
Checked all fuses.
Wiggle Test-with car running,wiggled the poop out of all wiring.
no change in condition.
I drove around town for 10 miles.stop and go,and some long stretch's.
car ran great.
good acceleration,good idle,same power as before these stupid problems.
as of right now,car passes all tests.
koeo-111-pass,stored-111-pass
koer-pass
cylinder balance test-90-pass.
tomorrow i'll be replacing the pip at work,might aswell.
did i mention i hate electrical problems?
the only reason i washed the engine was i entered a Dyno Shootout.
i wanted it to look pretty.
hope i can get this thing running right by this saturday morning,or i can kiss my $65 goodbye.
just a recap of parts replaced,
TPS-idle was stuck at 1500rpm,tps voltage at 1.5v,could not adjust any lower.
new tps,set it to .94v
Reset Idle-reset idle with new tps,per RJ's instructions.
rock solid at 650rpm.
2 New O2 Sensors-got codes 177,172
Cleaned The Ground's-cleaned all i could find,and the pcm ground.
Added Engine To Body Ground-can never have enough.
Checked and cleaned all electrical connections in engine bay.
Checked all vacuum lines
Checked all fuses.
Wiggle Test-with car running,wiggled the poop out of all wiring.
no change in condition.
I drove around town for 10 miles.stop and go,and some long stretch's.
car ran great.
good acceleration,good idle,same power as before these stupid problems.
as of right now,car passes all tests.
koeo-111-pass,stored-111-pass
koer-pass
cylinder balance test-90-pass.
tomorrow i'll be replacing the pip at work,might aswell.
I'd want to re-check the O2's till a good reading is acquired. It sounds like they're doing ok (and it's a testing issue) but still...............
Be sure your chosen ground for the testing is good (ohm it out if in doubt. Look for less than 5 ohms of resistance when checking for continuity-to-ground for a ground).
Either there's a wiring issue, a sensor issue, a testing issue, or the meter doesn't have enough internal resistance and is creating hysteresis.
Please give us a recap of how it's acting up and when (at this point). This thread is long enough that I'm probably missing an important post of yours wherein an issue was cleared up or changed.
Be sure your chosen ground for the testing is good (ohm it out if in doubt. Look for less than 5 ohms of resistance when checking for continuity-to-ground for a ground).
Either there's a wiring issue, a sensor issue, a testing issue, or the meter doesn't have enough internal resistance and is creating hysteresis.
Please give us a recap of how it's acting up and when (at this point). This thread is long enough that I'm probably missing an important post of yours wherein an issue was cleared up or changed.
i think its finally fixed.
so far i've driven a total of 60-65 miles so far with no problems.
i think it was a combo of problems.
1 being a bad TPS.
2 being bad O2's
Hissin,i'll check the O2 reading again this weekend.
i can borrow a better meter and make sure i have good grounds.
i'm almost positive the problem in the testing was me
and your right,i should recheck for a good reading on those O2's.
thank's everyone for your help.
hopefully this is the end of it.
:SNSign:
so far i've driven a total of 60-65 miles so far with no problems.
i think it was a combo of problems.
1 being a bad TPS.
2 being bad O2's
Hissin,i'll check the O2 reading again this weekend.
i can borrow a better meter and make sure i have good grounds.
i'm almost positive the problem in the testing was me
and your right,i should recheck for a good reading on those O2's.
thank's everyone for your help.
hopefully this is the end of it.
:SNSign:
Adam95GT
New Member
BlackVert
15 Year Member
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