Water Pump question for 65'

iskwezm · Oct 7, 2005

Im switching my radiator to a 5.0 style and need to order a driver side inlet water pump.I remember seeing something about a early timing cover that requires a aluminum pump (which i have now)or something like that.What kind of pump do i need to get to get a drivers side inlet that will work with my timing cover(if its different) Arent there some pumps that have a exposed impellar

zookeeper · Oct 7, 2005

You're right about the exposed impeller on early '65's. If yours has one, you need to swap the timing chain cover as well. If not, I think a '70 water pump will give you the 5.0-style inlet you need and will bolt right up to your existing timing chain cover. That way you don't wind up with a 5.0 reverse-rotation pump spinning backwards!

iskwezm · Oct 7, 2005

zookeeper said:
You're right about the exposed impeller on early '65's. If yours has one, you need to swap the timing chain cover as well. If not, I think a '70 water pump will give you the 5.0-style inlet you need and will bolt right up to your existing timing chain cover. That way you don't wind up with a 5.0 reverse-rotation pump spinning backwards!

aww crap, i think my impellar is exposed.Now what?

zookeeper · Oct 8, 2005

No big deal, just get a new timing chain cover. They're on ebay al the time, and if you buy a timing chain cover gasket set, they come with a little gasket that will seal the part where the timing chain seals against the pan so you don't need to drop the pan and put a whole pan gasket on. You just take a utility knife or razor blade, trim the old pan gasket, and put a dab of sealant to seal everything together. It's a simple job, and once you have the old water pump off, the job's 40% done anyway. I had an exposed impeller on my old '65 fastback and it cost me a motor. Since the timing chain cover is part of the cooling system, and it's aluminum, it got a small pinhole in it from years of water and debris and allowed my radiator to dump about a gallon of coolant (and a tube of stop leak) into the pan, which is not agood place for water. By the time I discovered where the leak was coming from, it was far to late. If I had a '65 with the old-style cover, I'd swap it out in a second for a newer pump and cover, just for peace of mind.

66nightMARE · Oct 8, 2005

He's right. The '70 pump should bolt right up and the inlet is driver side.

fastback brian · Oct 8, 2005

Do you remember if the water pump has a backplate??? just because it has an aluminum pump doesnt mean it has the early cover, I say this because from what I remember you dont have a ford pump or atleast the 64-65 ford aluminum pump. I went with the 80's front cover that doesnt have the hole for the fuel pump or dipstick but just about any 65 and later cover will work if you need one.

iskwezm · Oct 10, 2005

fastback brian said:
Do you remember if the water pump has a backplate??? just because it has an aluminum pump doesnt mean it has the early cover, I say this because from what I remember you dont have a ford pump or atleast the 64-65 ford aluminum pump. I went with the 80's front cover that doesnt have the hole for the fuel pump or dipstick but just about any 65 and later cover will work if you need one.

You know what,i dont remember since its been a while,but i think i remember a rusty impellar and I did replace the cover a while back,but used my same Brassworks pump.Do you think i could just fab up some bent tubing to re route the lower hose??I dont want this thing to turn into a crap load of money.

p.s. If i remove the fuel pump block off plate and its sealed,does that mean its a later cover and i dont need to switch it?

zookeeper · Oct 10, 2005

If you remove the fuel pump blockoff plate and can see anything resembling a water pump, you've got more problems than overheating! Sorry, I couldn't resist. Anyway, I suppose you could re-route your lower hose, or you could have the radiator outlet swapped, but in my opinion, neither would be any easier than simply swapping out the water pump and (if necessary) the timing chain cover. The later model timing chain covers are extremely common and you could probably find one for free with a little looking, so all you'd really be buying is a new water pump. I've seen new, not rebuilt, water pumps on ebay for under $20 from time to time, so expense isn't too big considering what you've already got in the car. It would be a simple two hour swap and you wouldn't have three feet of radiator hose to contend with.

geordie · Oct 10, 2005

Here's a link to my Early timing Chain Cover thread.

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=556274

steel1212 · Oct 10, 2005

I have a late model cover and drivers side inlet. I use the victor series water pump as it bolts up with my march pullies.

iskwezm · Oct 10, 2005

OK,I THINK i see 2 bolts at the bottom of pump that go from the rear out and the top of the timing cover has a grid pattern,does that give any more clu to what year it is???Or does the pass. inlet give it away?

fast64stang · Oct 10, 2005

iskweszm, this is kind of off topic, but how wide is your fox-style radiator going to be? I have been looking at a be cool radiator and I am wondering how much work it will take to make it fit.

iskwezm · Oct 10, 2005

fast64stang said:
iskweszm, this is kind of off topic, but how wide is your fox-style radiator going to be? I have been looking at a be cool radiator and I am wondering how much work it will take to make it fit.

well im gonna oder a Summit Universal type,its gonna be 27.3"X19X3.0 (stock is 17X17 )so it will fit inbetween the frame rails and i got the drivers inlet and pass outlet,that way its easier to use Cool Flex hose for the inlet and maybe keep my same pump and add a Taurus fan As far as making it fit,im gonna weld a couple of tabs and thats it.Shouldnt be too hard.This pic upside down and they are made by Griffin and its 169.00 so its A LOT less then the $575 that my Be Cool list for. .

fast64stang · Oct 10, 2005

the be cool i am looking at is $350 and 29"

Jimmys66 · Oct 10, 2005

Maybe I'm not understanding. I'm using a universal "chevy style" Griffen alum radiator. I'm using a pass side water pump on a early style timing cover. Are you changing to a 5.0 style for some other reason other than the radiator?

iskwezm · Oct 10, 2005

Jimmys66 said:
Maybe I'm not understanding. I'm using a universal "chevy style" Griffen alum radiator. I'm using a pass side water pump on a early style timing cover. Are you changing to a 5.0 style for some other reason other than the radiator?

I was going to run a drivers side outlet but i found a universal with a pass outlet.Originally i was going to use a 5.0 radiator which is opposite.

Jimmys66 · Oct 10, 2005

Sorry, I'm a little slow tonight. I'm using the same radiator as you are with a victor pump and the car gives me no problems at all. I only run electric fans and the car stays cool. Even been Woodward tested on a 90deg day.

You are making alot more hp than I am.

iskwezm · Oct 10, 2005

Jimmys66 said:
Sorry, I'm a little slow tonight. I'm using the same radiator as you are with a victor pump and the car gives me no problems at all. I only run electric fans and the car stays cool. Even been Woodward tested on a 90deg day.

You are making alot more hp than I am.

I called Be Cool and they told me to move up to a bigger core,their replacement radiator is only good for 300 non supercharged HP,i think(hope) im a little past that now.

Jimmys66 · Oct 11, 2005

This is somthing I might try next time if I need to. One of the mustangs I had seen at Woodward had the core support opened for a bigger radiator. The owner had taken a sheet metal sheer and cut the indention out from the factory radiator area. Now the core support was completely flat. It also gave him alot more room between the water pump impeller and the radiator. With a nice radius at the corners it looked stock.

iskwezm · Oct 11, 2005

Jimmys66 said:
This is somthing I might try next time if I need to. One of the mustangs I had seen at Woodward had the core support opened for a bigger radiator. The owner had taken a sheet metal sheer and cut the indention out from the factory radiator area. Now the core support was completely flat. It also gave him alot more room between the water pump impeller and the radiator. With a nice radius at the corners it looked stock.

I might be wrong on this,but I think thats what Ford did on the 67's because there was a problem.Im gonna use my body saw and cut out the raised part and use a pinch weld moulding to cover the cut edge.My budy has been telling me to do thins,but I was looking for other options and there is none.

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