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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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weak e-break

  • Thread starter Thread starter sxystev0
  • Start date Start date Oct 26, 2003
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Ray III

New Member
Feb 10, 2004
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fixin Boomhower's John Deere in Troy, NY
Jul 25, 2004
#21
  • Jul 25, 2004
  • #21
I agree that checking the brakes that way is bull****, it would only take a shoe-sting to stop a Honda that was turning 1300rpm.

have you EVER looked at the rear brakes? Jack up a wheel and take it off, the drum slides off after that. If the drums are really gouged out then you need to adjust the brakes down to get them off (get a chilton's at autozone for 25 bucks). Should be at least 1/8" of brake lining on there, and the lining should be firmly adhered to the shoe. Drum should be flat and smooth where the shoes contact. You can tell if the brakes are properly adjusted when you have the transmission in neutral and before taking the drum off turn the wheel and there should be a light drag of the brakes. (Trac-Lok rearends you have to jack both rear wheels off the ground)

If you have any doubts about the condition of the brakes, replace them. Parts are under $70 for the cheaper shoes and a spring kit. If a drum is gouged or uneven those are about 25 per. Basically take both drums off, and study one side while you take the other apart and put it together. It's good practice to use moly grease on all the sliding parts but you can skip that.

If the brakes look good but the lever just won't make them come on, replace the cables. They're 25 apeice from a Ford stealership.

You don't yank the e-brake to break the rear loose... you downshift and stomp on the gas... not only do you avoid locking the wheels in a hairy moment, you have greater control over the rate of slide.
 
S

shaun_st

New Member
May 26, 2001
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Western MA
Sep 22, 2004
#22
  • Sep 22, 2004
  • #22
E-brake finally holds

Got the E-brake to hold at 1300 RPM but not much over. It still seemed to roll an inch during inspection but the guy never felt it or did not care.

Replaced shoes, springs, adjuster mechinizm and hardware, along with putting the adjustable center E-brake cable from Ford Racing that comes with the M-2300-K. This helped as far as the cable stretch but it did not totally get fixed till I replaced the drums.

Drums were probably out of round that caused it to slip.

Now that I have my sticker, i should probably bring the drums back and upgrade to disc brakes in the rear.

Thanks for the help.
 
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