Weird clicking noise coming from dash

[superhuaman]

I have a 90 notch 2.3 auto and sometimes I hear a weird clicking noise coming from the dash. It sounds like a relay, but it's more like a telegraph than a buzzing noise. It seems to do this more when the rad fan and/or ac comp are on, and also when the car is cold. Also, if I am driving when the noise occurs, the engine will have a very slight miss. I can't really notice this unless I floor it. This is puzzling because I put my hand under the dash while I heard the noise, and I could feel the cooling fan module making the noise. But why does this cause the engine to misfire?

Let me tell you more about what I have on my car. I have an Accel 300+ ignition box with coil. When I took off the stock fan I had an 'Advance Auto' fan hooked into the stock fan wires. I don't know, it may have been too much for the module. After that, I got a Volvo fan run from the battery through a 30 amp relay, with the cooling fan module running the coil of the relay only. That worked ok until the relay burned out. I had to special order a 70 amp relay and terminals to go on it. Everything is fine now, except for the occasional bout of telegraphy. So why does this affect my engine?

 

[Bogus SVO]

your fan relay is on the way out it sounds like, the contacks are bouncing, it causes the miss most likley becose of voltage spikes

 

[superhuaman]

your fan relay is on the way out it sounds like, the contacks are bouncing, it causes the miss most likley becose of voltage spikes

Hmm. Maybe the relay coil is getting weak and not holding the contacts, b/c of the lower voltage when everything (a/c comp, rad fan, a/c fan) is on.

I will pull the fan controller today and see what I find. I got a module out of an 85 2.3 car yesterday at the jy. I don't think it will work though.

 

[Bogus SVO]

the fan relay on my 88 stang is mounted in front of the ebrake pedal,

I do belive your correct on the 85 relay not working in your 90

 

[superhuaman]

Actually I tried it and it worked-but I wouldn't use it. Why? Because whenever it shuts off the a/c compressor, it shuts off the fan too. Then they both come back on at the same time. The newer one is designed to leave the fan on when the compressor cycles, to increase cooling and to lessen electrical loads. At least that is what I think.

Here is what I found when I opened up my module:
View attachment 498441
There is a 16V, 100 mF electrolytic capacitor that is fried (see discoloration at base). I'm going to try replacing this and see what happens. A $1.29 capacitor is a lot cheaper than the ~$100 module. And the new cap is rated at 35V, not 16V, so a spike is less likely to take it out this time. I think that's what happened, anyway.

 

[superhuaman]

gar

sonuvabyatch...
amnit: crapola
I messed up the traces on the circuit board, so I basically ended up breaking it in half and throwing across the room. Well at least I have the '85 one to hold me over until I can get the right one. After all, I only went to one junkyard. I know where I can get these, but I can't find out how much they are yet (it's Sunday ).

 

[Bogus SVO]

about 40 bux at the parts store, I had to get one for the 88 droptop, it was $80 or so for the motorcraft one, I got the cheaper one it was a TRW, so its been in a box on a shelf for some time,

If ya go JY for one its located undwer the glove box in 83-86 thunderbirds, the TC atleast, but any ford with a ele fan ought to have it

 

[superhuaman]

Cool, thanks man! :SNSign:

 

[rd]

Interesting thread.

My 2.3 89 notch melted two connectors on the IRCM that controls the fan.

I then used the IRCM to operate a fan relay. It then melted a 30 amp fuse holder.

I ended up putting two 30 amp relays in parallel to run the fan. So far that has worked.

However, the fan motor, which was new, died. I just replaced it. I have not yet checked the amp draw on it, but it may have been the problem all along.

I am thinking that an aftermarket fan that takes 20 amps or less, controlled by one 30 amp relay via the IRCM, is my long term solution.

Just changed the puter and the MAP on the car. As well as swapping the two egr control solenoids. Seems to run fine, had a 50 rpm surge at idle last night, but at least its running.

I am interested in how others have fixed or addressed this problem, especially if you have been able to keep the stock IRCM running the fan.

 

[rd]

Let me add. The IRCM for the 89 was $122 at Ford, and the connector repair kit was $25.

I later found the connector repair kit at Carquest for a bit less.

I found the module online at either NAPA or Autozone, for a bit less, but have not had to buy it yet. Both of my modules work, even after the connectors melted.

The IRCM changes sometime after 90 or so, and becomes the CCRM, and was moved to the pass front strut tower. I think it also has more functions.

Any more info on these jewels is appreciated!

 

[superhuaman]

Fortunately, my plug isn't melted (yet), it's only discoloered a little bit on the brown/yellow wire (the fan output, obviously). I think the CCRM on the strut tower was only on the 93's but I am not sure. It could have been on the 92's also. I couldn't find the part at www.autozone.com, but I found the part number, 37506. I searched for that number at www.napaonline.com, and came up with the module. It's about $50 for Echlin brand and $60 for NAPA brand. I am running the stock IRCM to control a 70A relay that controls the fan, since it takes about twice the amps of a stock fan. The big relay is wired with 10 gauge wire to the battery through a 60A maxifuse (holder is hard to find, came from Pep Boys). Here are some pics of my setup:
This one is of the Volvo 380 Twin Turbo fan. The shroud is exactly the same size as the core of the Mustang radiator. It fits right in between the tanks!
View attachment 498353
Here you can see the fuse for the fan:
View attachment 498355
And here's the 70A relay next to the battery and Accel ignition
View attachment 498357

 

[superhuaman]

*UPDATE*
I finally got a replacement module. It is a GP Sorenson MR-121. And it only cost me $29.99, because that is our 'cost' for where I work. List is about $60.