Welder claims he can't weld rollbar ??? fumes too bad?

bimmertech said:

yeah, load of crap.

but on a side note, if it is just a 4pt bar i personally would rather bolt it in. i have done both, weld in 6pt and bolt in 4pt, the 4pt came with brackets to place on the underside of the body. the floor pans are very thin and soft on our cars and any type of reinforcement is a plus in my book.

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I was thinking about tieing in the rollbar to a set of subframes when funds allow, so that's where i'm coming from... might as well just weld everything in. Besides, it was supposed to be a stich weld to keep the strength of the mounting surface on the floorpan.

I don't believe welding through paint is a bad job, the mig would just rip through it and burn it off, I just would have assumed that if there were fumes the guy would have then decided to grind a bit.

He gave me a deal b/c he didn't finish, so I'm not toooo upset. I think I'm going to call him up and see what's going on.

I just want to know... Do people weld the bars to their cars? because I know they do. Do they just grind it down? or what... ? I'm so confused about this whole thing.

bimmertech said:

you can't weld through paint with a mig. you have to have a clean surface. the majority of the time installing a roll bar/sfc's is spent removing the paint/tarpaper. chances are he underbid the job and didn't feel like losing money on it.

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Just called him up... said the fumes nearly knocked him out when he tried welding them, that's why he stopped. Maybe he tried to weld through tar or something and that's what hit him.

I was under the impression that when welding, you will get a better weld with a completely clean surface, however you can weld through paint.

Anybody have any suggestions:
1. Just run 4 bolts through each plate and have a bolt on Rollbar for now?
2. Clean up the weldpoints myself and get somebody to then weld it on?

hmm, buddy at work just told me about the sound deadening/tar-mat stuff I probably have to remove before welding... using dry ice (quicker) or a chisel (slow)

edit: but since this isn't by the weld points... i don't know what the big deal is. All there is is paint.

turbogt said:

If he welds often he should be wearing a respirator anyway.. I weld for a living..Galvanized is not a big deal.. Stainless is far worse, and even stainless is no problem with a respirator and 3m 2097 filter..I think he was just lazy or dumb.

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thanks for the info man... i've got no idea what the floorboards are. That would be nice to know. I'll try and have and answer when I grind the paint off and see what's there next Monday, unless somebody knows.

mustangt562 said:

take it to my guy. call the number in the sig. he WILL hook u up. tell him Chris sent you.

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I called him up... he'll probably do it for me early next week.

Located in Paramont, CA
called "Car Shows"
Phone # (562) 630-7010

Thanks a lot man!

mustangt562 said:

take it to my guy. call the number in the sig. he WILL hook u up. tell him Chris sent you.

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Done deal man!!! thanks a lot for the reccomendation... i took it to him and he did an AMAZING job.

Pics are soon to come when i paint the thing! (before and after the paint obviously... don't worry)

We talked about your ride too... definitely get the typhoon intake worked on, that sounds like your bottleneck. Same thing happened to others on this board. That intake just has to be reworked a ton. Look for RC's post on it, I think he was talking about how much work has to be done on it. Also, you might look into bigger ones as well. I think the typhoon is like an Ebrock RPM in flow nums. Might need a bit more kick for those extra cubes.