Welding (and other) help please?

[68Rustangs]

I always say save your money and buy the right one the first time. I dont ever recommend buying a cheap welder because a good brand machine holds its value if you ever have to sell it. I highly recommend Miller or Lincoln...Hobart is is made by Miller. Also, dont skimp on the gas...yes you can weld without it but take some pride in your work and do it right.

You dont need a 220 machine for anything on a mustang... Unless you are welding 1/4" steel all the time, you dont need it. Its nice if you ever do, but what you can do a car can be done with a 110v machine.

That was my main concern was if the 110v machine would do the trick. I didnt want to get stuck with one silly part i needed a stronger welder for. Thanks for the good advice. And i think i will save myself the headache of all that extra splatter and grinding and go with the gas. I know the Hobart's are made by Miller but arent the Clarke's made by miller as well?

 

[xoxbxfx]

That was my main concern was if the 110v machine would do the trick. I didnt want to get stuck with one silly part i needed a stronger welder for. Thanks for the good advice. And i think i will save myself the headache of all that extra splatter and grinding and go with the gas. I know the Hobart's are made by Miller but arent the Clarke's made by miller as well?

no..I forget who makes Clarke but its not Miller.

 

[68Rustangs]

Additional info RE: the casting number you gave:

C5 = 1965
A = Ford (Carline)
E = part produced for the (E)NGINEERING Group

6015 = Basic Part Number; 6015 is the part # for a cylinder block

E = Suffix; This indicates the revision under the part number. "A" indicates an original part. "B" is a first revision, "C" is a second revision, and so on. Therefore, an "E" is a fourth revision.

This info came from the book by George Reid in the link below, just in case you're interested in checking it out. You can search for it online or in bookstores if you give the ISBN # of the book. The chart w/ the above info is on p. 27 in my copy, but it looks like the one in the link may be a new printing--the cover is different than mine. Good luck w/ your project, and in your engine decision!

George Reid, "How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8's on a Budget" (ISBN # 1-884089-55-0) on amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Perform...50/ref=sr_11_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1196083046&sr=11-1

Thanks for the extra info on the block. It cleared up a little confusion for me.

 

[68Rustangs]

no..I forget who makes Clarke but its not Miller.

Mabye ill go with the hobart then. I want something im not going to have to replace a year from now. I think they have a longer duty cycle than the clarkes too.

 

[Jester67]

I have a 180amp 220v Hobart with a 125 CF gas cylinder as stated above the bigger the cylinder the cheaper the gas per CF the 125 is the biggest one an individual can own and exchange easily above that they are leased and become a pain.. Get the gas you will thank yourself later. Clark is not made by Miller but Hobart is. In a welder, you get what you pay for I would stick with the name brands. Having said that the one from northern tools above looks a lot like a Lincoln. I am willing to bet that they use there heavy lose transformers in those units so it would be the luck of the draw. If your car has a lot of rust, you will be spending a lot of time with the welder just something to consider. Also get an auto darking hood that one of the best investments I have made for comfort. Harbor freight has some good sales on them and the ones I have looked are good quality.

 

[road warr1or]

I would recomend a Lincoln 110v arc welder with .030 gas shielded welding wire. I havent posted any of the photos of my car but I had a similar experince. I pretty much cut my 69 stang a part and rebuilt it. the welder is easy to use for a beginer and gas shilded wire allows the user to get similar results as using shielding gas. Plus the majority of the welds your going to perform are going to be spot welds anyway. So it should be pretty easy. try to stay away for arc welders unless you have some experience. they can be a little more difficult to use

 

[68Rustangs]

Thanks for the advice all. I am actually a welder in the Navy so i have plenty of arc welding expirence but an arc welder would be too much trouble. Even on the lowest setting you may wind up blowing holes right through most of the thin gauge mild steel on these cars and wind up with alot more porosity in the welds than with a MIG unit. I just never used a 115v powered welder so i wanted to make sure it would do the job and give me enough power since i dont have a 220 outlet available to me. On a ship we either use 220 or 440 three phase welders. I decided to go with the Miller 140 with the autoset feature. I'm not new to welding but i have done some research and for anyone out there who is new to welding or just wants an easy setup i would recommend this welder. The autoset feature allows you to set the gauge steel you are welding and diamater wire and off you go. So no guesswork to find the right temp. You can still set up manually with this welder but the autoset feature would be awesome for someone who has limited welding expirence or none at all. It is a little more expensive than the hobarts and such but i think its well worth it.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_140_autoset/