Welding (and other) help please?

xoxbxfx said:

I always say save your money and buy the right one the first time. I dont ever recommend buying a cheap welder because a good brand machine holds its value if you ever have to sell it. I highly recommend Miller or Lincoln...Hobart is is made by Miller. Also, dont skimp on the gas...yes you can weld without it but take some pride in your work and do it right.

You dont need a 220 machine for anything on a mustang... Unless you are welding 1/4" steel all the time, you dont need it. Its nice if you ever do, but what you can do a car can be done with a 110v machine.

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That was my main concern was if the 110v machine would do the trick. I didnt want to get stuck with one silly part i needed a stronger welder for. Thanks for the good advice. And i think i will save myself the headache of all that extra splatter and grinding and go with the gas. I know the Hobart's are made by Miller but arent the Clarke's made by miller as well?

CarFreakGT said:

Additional info RE: the casting number you gave:

C5 = 1965
A = Ford (Carline)
E = part produced for the (E)NGINEERING Group

6015 = Basic Part Number; 6015 is the part # for a cylinder block

E = Suffix; This indicates the revision under the part number. "A" indicates an original part. "B" is a first revision, "C" is a second revision, and so on. Therefore, an "E" is a fourth revision.

This info came from the book by George Reid in the link below, just in case you're interested in checking it out. You can search for it online or in bookstores if you give the ISBN # of the book. The chart w/ the above info is on p. 27 in my copy, but it looks like the one in the link may be a new printing--the cover is different than mine. Good luck w/ your project, and in your engine decision!

George Reid, "How to Build Max Performance Ford V-8's on a Budget" (ISBN # 1-884089-55-0) on amazon.com:
http://www.amazon.com/Build-Perform...50/ref=sr_11_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1196083046&sr=11-1

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Thanks for the extra info on the block. It cleared up a little confusion for me.

xoxbxfx said:

no..I forget who makes Clarke but its not Miller.

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Mabye ill go with the hobart then. I want something im not going to have to replace a year from now. I think they have a longer duty cycle than the clarkes too.

Thanks for the advice all. I am actually a welder in the Navy so i have plenty of arc welding expirence but an arc welder would be too much trouble. Even on the lowest setting you may wind up blowing holes right through most of the thin gauge mild steel on these cars and wind up with alot more porosity in the welds than with a MIG unit. I just never used a 115v powered welder so i wanted to make sure it would do the job and give me enough power since i dont have a 220 outlet available to me. On a ship we either use 220 or 440 three phase welders. I decided to go with the Miller 140 with the autoset feature. I'm not new to welding but i have done some research and for anyone out there who is new to welding or just wants an easy setup i would recommend this welder. The autoset feature allows you to set the gauge steel you are welding and diamater wire and off you go. So no guesswork to find the right temp. You can still set up manually with this welder but the autoset feature would be awesome for someone who has limited welding expirence or none at all. It is a little more expensive than the hobarts and such but i think its well worth it.

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/millermatic_140_autoset/