Welp, my engine has no oil pressure...blown.

[bluevenom867]

Wait.....so you might not need a new motor?

You only did turn the key "on"?

...........................

Maybe you should start it and comfirm is that case.

 

[5spd GT]

Wait.....so you might not need a new motor?

You only did turn the key "on"?

...........................

Maybe you should start it and comfirm is that case.

Very true, I probably will after work. I just didn't want it to run if something was bad with it

 

[bluevenom867]

What was think "clinking" sound you said you heard when you shut the car off?

Was it just normal metal cooling contracting,creeking sound or something else?

 

[TheUser]

LOL.. beat to it by TheUser. D'oh!

I felt kinda weird too since so many people had posted already and not mentioned it lol.

David: As for the noise, who knows? You're the only one who heard it and could have a distorted perception of the noise now - anyone would in a panic. Yeah, you might try starting it, but I wouldn't let it run long if you think the coolant is frozen. Don't pour hot water in it to unthaw it either lol. It's supposed to warm up this weekend (here: 40's), and I'm not sure exactly where you are, but I don't think you're too far south of me, so it might warm up there too.

 

[1SLO306]

I felt kinda weird too since so many people had posted already and not mentioned it lol.

David: As for the noise, who knows? You're the only one who heard it and could have a distorted perception of the noise now - anyone would in a panic. Yeah, you might try starting it, but I wouldn't let it run long if you think the coolant is frozen. Don't pour hot water in it to unthaw it either lol. It's supposed to warm up this weekend (here: 40's), and I'm not sure exactly where you are, but I don't think you're too far south of me, so it might warm up there too.

guess i didnt read it that good, kinda got down on readin because he said it might be blown.

 

[5spd GT]

Central Arkansas...yeah I won't let it run long...just enough to visually listen and see. It would be nice if it wasn't damaged internally but I'm removing the engine anyways.

Whatever was clicking was shaking the car a bit. Something was shifting. I'm not sure why coolant would all of a sudden decide to start going "in and out"...even though I had seen it happen before (just not that extreme). It may not be as bad as I once thought but I will get to the bottom of it now...

I assume if I have oil pressure and it sounds fine it isn't blown. But it is being torn down anyways...

 

[5spd GT]

So why would the engine stall going down the road after severe detonation. Would that not lead you to believe something is wrong besides overheating (internally).? I couldn't even accelerate it was detonating so bad under any kind of load...go figure...

 

[HISSIN50]

David, the puter sees 240* as a point of getting toasty (timing is pulled, A/C has shut down, etc).
Unlike some GM's, the fuel pump is not wired through the OP gauge, so that was not the cause of it shutting down.

At this point, I dont see harm in checking basic fluid levels, not only for levels but for contaminates and metal, etc. Then crank it and see if pressure builds. Having an aftermarket OP gauge on there would be nice for right then, but I think the stock gauge moves fairly quickly (It has been a while since I watched it so I dont remember real well).

If no pressure, then I like the line of thinking that others had of pulling the dizzy and lookin for parts that are bad. I might also try priming it at that time and seeing if you can build pressure (nice to do it that way so you dont move internals while seeing if you can get pressure).

If you have reason to suspect any accessories, remove the serp belt while testing. If it fires and runs, obviously shut it down quickly thereafter since you wont be turning the water pump, etc etc.

I know you know most or all of this, but when stuff like this happens, I know I tend to forget simple stuff while my mind races. this is just kinda what I might do while farting around and lookin at stuff.

Best of luck David!

 

[RADIALKILLER]

I froze a 306 one winter,and the only thing that ended up being wrong with it was head gaskets,as for the oil pressure guage the stock oil pressure sending unit could have went bad giving you a false reading that happened to me once in my red gt it scared me *****less so I pulled over and it just turned out to be the sending unit.I would not worry about your heads I have seen aluminum heads brought back from the dead,you can have almost anything fixed on an aluminum head. Good Luck and let the Force be with you.

 

[Black1987Stang]

I agree about the bad sending unit too, What I dont get, you say the cooling system froze but it overheated......if it "overheated" how could it still be frozen, it would have unmelted any ice, im surprised no one picked up on this. Have you tried starting it yet?

 

[Michael Yount]

I think you're on the right path with removal ---- there's lots of history here as you're well aware. Multiple overheats, detonation while operating, now noises from the motor, freezing the block and it shuts off while you're driving it. THat plus 165K and being 'used' fairly hard along the way ---- that all points to tearing it down to see what's been damaged.

The good news is that you've learned the lesson (albeit the hard way) that when one starts overheating -- you need to stop driving it until the problem has been solved.

Stangdiddle - you've obviously never frozen one -- overheating is the primary symptom when one is frozen. With no water to remove the heat the engine is creating -- it 'overheats' very quickly. In this mode overheating doesn't mean that the coolant runs at too high a temp. It means the metal bits don't have any/enough coolant to remove heat when the engine is running. Heads/block get WAY too hot, thermal expansion causes stuff to move around, pieces shift/warp, LOTS of potential issues. All that assumes that nothing got cracked from the expanding ice. Freezing one and then driving it frozen usually causes BIG problems. I think 5spdGT is gonna be able to tell us all about it -- once he gets the motor pulled and sees just what the damage is.

All started by a water pump seal leaking by the way it appears....

 

[5spd GT]

87stangdiddle - If the whole bottom radiator hose is frozen with water/coolant that is a lot of blockage to overcome by overheating in that short amount of time. It will overheat quicker than melting the ice in the hose (or wherever the blockage occured). Just like a cold raditor when the t-stat hasn't opened up.

Thanks JT and Brian

I know it isn't the sending unit...it has always did fine and this was directly linear with the car shutting off.

I did start the car and it drives fine except that it runs hot all the time now once it warms up. It wants to peak the guage everytime. Oil pressure is up but the car runs hot...I'm going to be tearing it down shortly and inspect and rebuild...

 

[5spd GT]

I think you're on the right path with removal ---- there's lots of history here as you're well aware. Multiple overheats, detonation while operating, now noises from the motor, freezing the block and it shuts off while you're driving it. THat plus 165K and being 'used' fairly hard along the way ---- that all points to tearing it down to see what's been damaged.

The good news is that you've learned the lesson (albeit the hard way) that when one starts overheating -- you need to stop driving it until the problem has been solved.

Stangdiddle - you've obviously never frozen one -- overheating is the primary symptom when one is frozen. With no water to remove the heat the engine is creating -- it 'overheats' very quickly. In this mode overheating doesn't mean that the coolant runs at too high a temp. It means the metal bits don't have any/enough coolant to remove heat when the engine is running. Heads/block get WAY too hot, thermal expansion causes stuff to move around, pieces shift/warp, LOTS of potential issues. All that assumes that nothing got cracked from the expanding ice. Freezing one and then driving it frozen usually causes BIG problems. I think 5spdGT is gonna be able to tell us all about it -- once he gets the motor pulled and sees just what the damage is.

All started by a water pump seal leaking by the way it appears....

Yeah, the car actually has did fine as long as I had plenty of coolant in there. Just this time it froze...and didn't allow flow (my mistake for not getting coolant when I had the chance). But it gives me a good excuse to rebuild it...and I'm really not worried about it...just I got to come up with a bit more money than I wanted to spin and I have always wanted an excuse to freshen up the bottomend of the car.

Detonation occured when it got really really hot. It didn't do it when the car had coolant in there. It wasn't an every drive type thing...

I'm ready...I think

 

[DMAN302]

Well with the miles on the car and the fact you have all the "good stuff" already in hand, nothing will come of the rebuild but good things. You can put the issues behind you and enjoy the car again without having to keep one eye on the road and the other scanning the gauges.

 

[5spd GT]

I'm trying to look at it like that Derek I always hated having blowby and all that associated mess. I will have basically a fresh engine with a bit more pickup as a bonus. To save money I'm thinking of just getting the pistons installed in the bores and assemble the rest...it all depends on how much they are going to charge

Maybe you guys can tell me what this means:

Well yesterday after I started it back up (while it was hot) it would just keep turning over (not normal) but I had noticed it a few days ago too. While it was turning over it was shooting out white smoke (coolant?) and that was before it would officially start? thoughts on that?

 

[Black1987Stang]

I think you're on the right path with removal ---- there's lots of history here as you're well aware. Multiple overheats, detonation while operating, now noises from the motor, freezing the block and it shuts off while you're driving it. THat plus 165K and being 'used' fairly hard along the way ---- that all points to tearing it down to see what's been damaged.

The good news is that you've learned the lesson (albeit the hard way) that when one starts overheating -- you need to stop driving it until the problem has been solved.

Stangdiddle - you've obviously never frozen one -- overheating is the primary symptom when one is frozen. With no water to remove the heat the engine is creating -- it 'overheats' very quickly. In this mode overheating doesn't mean that the coolant runs at too high a temp. It means the metal bits don't have any/enough coolant to remove heat when the engine is running. Heads/block get WAY too hot, thermal expansion causes stuff to move around, pieces shift/warp, LOTS of potential issues. All that assumes that nothing got cracked from the expanding ice. Freezing one and then driving it frozen usually causes BIG problems. I think 5spdGT is gonna be able to tell us all about it -- once he gets the motor pulled and sees just what the damage is.

All started by a water pump seal leaking by the way it appears....

Cool, you learn something new everyday I was only thinking of the coolant in the block Sounds like u better pull the motor

 

[5spd GT]

87stangdiddle - I am pulling it...decided that quite sometime ago