Cause .500 is a perfect light. Anything below that is a redlight. (aka foul start)
http://www.nhra.com/basics/dayatdrags.html
"Full Tree: used in Competition, Super Stock, and Stock, for which a handicap starting system is used to equalize competition. The three amber bulbs on the Christmas Tree flash consecutively five-tenths of a second apart, followed five-tenths later by the green starting light. A perfect reaction time on a full Tree is .500."
http://www.nhra.com/basics/dayatdrags.html
"Full Tree: used in Competition, Super Stock, and Stock, for which a handicap starting system is used to equalize competition. The three amber bulbs on the Christmas Tree flash consecutively five-tenths of a second apart, followed five-tenths later by the green starting light. A perfect reaction time on a full Tree is .500."
Yeah, your times aren't bad. I'd say the stock puny MAF is holding you back some though. Look into upgrading to a 73mm-76mm in the near future. Buying a larger fuel pump (155-255lph), and adjustable fuel pressure regulator and some tune time will net you better ET's as well.
Gearbanger 101 - I'm pretty sure the rules have changed. .000 is now a perfect light from what I've been hearing.
90whitepony - A 10-15 second burnout is WAY too long for any tire......you are using drag radials or slicks right? The mph seems a tad low. What elevation are you at?
90whitepony - A 10-15 second burnout is WAY too long for any tire......you are using drag radials or slicks right? The mph seems a tad low. What elevation are you at?
I have nitto drags 275/40 17 dont really know the elevation I am in the albany new york area I already have a 73 mm maf 255 fuel pump and adjustale regulater also my alternater could have been bad the first run I might not have even noticed it.
maverick0716 said:
Your right, the rules have changed. 0.000 is a perfect light, just watch any drag race on ESPN or Speed channel.
All i did before staging was start from a very slow roll and lightly turned the tires a few rotations to clean them. WIR is kinda nice because you don't have to drive through the waterbox to get to the line.
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
fordman54935 said:
You dont need to convert to maf before you swap heads intakes or cams. Now if you want a rowdy cam yeah do the swap. SD will work fine with any heads and intakes. The cam is the part you must be careful with. Crower 15511 is a very good sd cam as is the comp cams nx264hr and a few others. Visit www.50tech.com forums and youll find many threads about sd friendly cams. Like I said if you want a rowdy cam with cool lope swap to maf.
It would be great (money-wise) to not have to switch to mass air. I do believe the cam in the car was selected as a SD-friendly cam, and the previous owner said there was a chip burned so the computer could work with the cam, which I believe, because the car does run very well. I was always under the impression that before any real H/C/I work could done, mass air was necessary.
Any info on this would be great
Any info on this would be great
bluevenom867
I will have images of molesting stuffed animals in
No he did red light if he was just racing Sportsman.
.500 is a perfect light for Sportsman..
.000 is a perfect light for Pro Tree.
.500 is a perfect light for Sportsman..
.000 is a perfect light for Pro Tree.
don't be so sure about that. alot of tracks switched over to the new LED lights. when they did that, they switched to the zero light. since this year, i have alot of timeslips that read between .000 and .500 that are not redlights (on the sportsmans tree). BTW, the pro tree was .400.
Well, I raced at two different tracks in the last month and anyone who cut better than a .500 R/T got a big old raspberry on their tree. (which I didn't have to worry about with an average R/T of .850
fordman54935 said:
The highest I've seen with that combo is 255RWHP and 311RWTQ. Most guys get 240-255RWHP with ported or GT40 heads, a stock or mild cam, and long tubes. The stock 19# fuel system is more than up to the task.
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
You may need to consider a cam change for mass air swap cause I was SD and I can tell you your car will run much better when converted. I have to say with your mph and ET that you are better off with stock cam than what ever one you have in there. Something just ain't right with the cars performance.
DMAN302
My mom says thanks for the pearl necklace.
You may need to consider a cam change for mass air swap cause I was SD and I can tell you your car will run much better when converted. I have to say with your mph and ET that you are better off with stock cam than what ever one you have in there. Something just ain't right with the cars performance for the mods. ALSO why are you fighting about this redlight thing..I think you need to stop stealing the thread and help the guy out.
I dont know where you live but here in Florida I got a Pair of 96 Explorer GT40 heads for 50.00 each yes thats right 50.00 each! LKQ COPHER U PULLIT TAMPA, ST.PETERSBURG, BRADENTON,CLEARWATER.........They were my expermintal heads very minor modifications and i paid 200.00 to have them ported and Mamma Mia,,,,,,thatz a spicy meatball.
So should I toss the cam I have in the trash? It doesn't seem like it would be too wild of a cam, here is what the spec sheet says:
The cam was already in the car when I bought it. The cam specs are:
210/215 degrees @0.050, 0.533/0.533" lift
I'm hearing alot of conflicting info
Mass air conversion (but somebody said I don't need it
Thumper ported E7's
Tmoss ported lower
Keep existing cam
65 MM TB
Would that work well together with the parts I have already? Its really bugging the hell out of me, my car isn't nearly as fast as it should be.
The cam was already in the car when I bought it. The cam specs are:
210/215 degrees @0.050, 0.533/0.533" lift
I'm hearing alot of conflicting info
Mass air conversion (but somebody said I don't need it
Thumper ported E7's
Tmoss ported lower
Keep existing cam
65 MM TB
Would that work well together with the parts I have already? Its really bugging the hell out of me, my car isn't nearly as fast as it should be.
That combo will work well together and you could run SD - is it what you want? Is ~250RWHP and 300RWTQ enough for you?
I think I would be pleased with those results. What kind of (theoretical) 1/4 miles times and flywheel HP would I be looking at?