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Suspension What about these Subframes

  • Thread starter Thread starter from6to8
  • Start date Start date Jan 30, 2025
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
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#41
  • Feb 3, 2025
  • #41
Just read through this thread. All the cliche advice applies:

Buy once cry once

You get what you pay for

Too good to be true


Just get the good ones and be done with it!! You won’t be disappointed.
 
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from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
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#42
  • Feb 4, 2025
  • #42
limp said:
They work well and it seems safer to me than jack stands. Still wish I had a tall ceiling and a lift....
Click to expand...
nice and I actually built some like yours out of 2x8's or 10's.

My son's Race ramps are actually the long drive up on ones.
 

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
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#43
  • Feb 4, 2025
  • #43
from6to8 said:
nice and I actually built some like yours out of 2x8's or 10's.

My son's Race ramps are actually the long drive up on ones.
Click to expand...
I have some 2 X 6 ones also.. they are not as tall as these and when I have to jack up one side at a time on a car I use them in between the final jack up to the height of the Race Ramps....
 
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from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
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#44
  • Feb 14, 2025
  • #44
AeroCoupe said:
If you want to spend the same time, effort, and money to weld them in then go for it. I would rather spend the $40 or so more dollars and know I have the better units.
Click to expand...
Is it necessary to have the subframes fastened at the seat brackets underneath? I noticed today when swapping my rear lower arms that one side wasn't fastened, I'll check the other side tomorrow. Not sure rather the nuts were missing when the muffler guy welded them up or what.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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#45
  • Feb 14, 2025
  • #45
from6to8 said:
Is it necessary to have the subframes fastened at the seat brackets underneath?
Click to expand...

It does help to position them. Snug them down, beat/bang/bend if/where required, weld.

You could also clamp it into place, I've seen magnets used, jacks, etc..
 

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
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#46
  • Feb 14, 2025
  • #46
Noobz347 said:
It does help to position them. Snug them down, beat/bang/bend if/where required, weld.

You could also clamp it into place, I've seen magnets used, jacks, etc..
Click to expand...
They are already installed and welded by a shop. Necessary to fasten them now?
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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#47
  • Feb 14, 2025
  • #47
from6to8 said:
They are already installed and welded by a shop. Necessary to fasten them now?
Click to expand...
If they are seat bolts, then yeah, bolt them down. Can you move that end of the seat up and down?
 

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
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#48
  • Feb 15, 2025
  • #48
Noobz347 said:
If they are seat bolts, then yeah, bolt them down. Can you move that end of the seat up and down?
Click to expand...
I actually don't think the seat is moving as if those are the seat bolts that lock the seats down but it seems they should be. I will check when I go outside later & I'll fasten anyway just to be safe
 

Trogdor

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#49
  • Feb 16, 2025
  • #49
Whoever installed mine decided to go the extra mile under the seat area.
 

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
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#50
  • Feb 16, 2025
  • #50
Trogdor said:
Whoever installed mine decided to go the extra mile under the seat area.
Click to expand...
Yeah it looks like that should suffice since it's welded up in that area even though I don't see the seat brackets themselves. As for mine upon further inspection the seat bolts just fasten through the floor pan with no nuts on them and the brackets for the subframes just kind of sits over those so everything's welded up nice. As some have said it's no reason to put nuts on them as the seats don't have them anyway. I guess it won't hurt too but yesterday I was tackling swapping out rear lower control arms and all of that so I'm not worried about it
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#51
  • Feb 16, 2025
  • #51
Seat brackets start at about 1:00 and you can see they install nuts on the bolts to pull the seat brackets up to the floor pan. Ties everything together and makes the seats move less.

View: https://youtu.be/TgSju5PQ2pE?si=Rg08gYd8HkxEcZDM
 

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
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#52
  • Feb 16, 2025
  • #52
AeroCoupe said:
Seat brackets start at about 1:00 and you can see they install nuts on the bolts to pull the seat brackets up to the floor pan. Ties everything together and makes the seats move less.

View: https://youtu.be/TgSju5PQ2pE?si=Rg08gYd8HkxEcZDM
Click to expand...
Yeah I did when I watched that video the other day & at some point I'll throw some on. I got to check the thread pitch see if I got some nuts lying around
 

2000xp8

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#53
  • Feb 16, 2025
  • #53
I made this post a while back in a another thread
"So i turned the rear bolts into studs.
The factory bolts will work, but it's really close with the thickness of the carpet, when you put them in from the top, you can crank them down and crush the carpet and padding get the threads you need on the bottom side, not so easy when they face up.
So i bought them like half an inch longer.
They are m10 1.5 with a 40mm length. 10.9 grade, which i'm not sure how compares to Grade 8 which is what i would normally buy.
Oddly enough advance auto stocks them, their website makes it seem like $4.79 per bolt, but when i got there, it's actually a 3 pack for that amount of money.
I also ordered some for nuts for the top.
Same size obviously, but i got ones to match the front bolts, which are apparently called "Free spin washer nuts", hopefully they will go on easier as they start to get tight."
Imo, this is the way the back should be done.
 
Reactions: 90sickfox, General karthief and 89ripper

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
Sep 2, 2012
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#54
  • Feb 16, 2025
  • #54
2000xp8 said:
I made this post a while back in a another thread
"So i turned the rear bolts into studs.
The factory bolts will work, but it's really close with the thickness of the carpet, when you put them in from the top, you can crank them down and crush the carpet and padding get the threads you need on the bottom side, not so easy when they face up.
So i bought them like half an inch longer.
They are m10 1.5 with a 40mm length. 10.9 grade, which i'm not sure how compares to Grade 8 which is what i would normally buy.
Oddly enough advance auto stocks them, their website makes it seem like $4.79 per bolt, but when i got there, it's actually a 3 pack for that amount of money.
I also ordered some for nuts for the top.
Same size obviously, but i got ones to match the front bolts, which are apparently called "Free spin washer nuts", hopefully they will go on easier as they start to get tight."
Imo, this is the way the back should be done.
Click to expand...
i'm just going to throw whatever nuts fit the stock seat bolts lol......
 

2000xp8

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#55
  • Feb 16, 2025
  • #55
Nothing wrong with that, but every time you take a seat bolt out, they are going to fall off. I was tired of it happening. I'm 6'1, so any work in the front interior is easier by removing the seat. The added bonus too is that you never have to deal with getting past the carpet with the bolt anymore either.
 

from6to8

There's suction so I used that end O_O
15 Year Member
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Feb 16, 2025
#56
  • Feb 16, 2025
  • #56
2000xp8 said:
Nothing wrong with that, but every time you take a seat bolt out, they are going to fall off. I was tired of it happening. I'm 6'1, so any work in the front interior is easier by removing the seat. The added bonus too is that you never have to deal with getting past the carpet with the bolt anymore either.
Click to expand...
i just re read your post as to what you did and understood it better the second time lol. I feel you on that but as for me I don't remove my seats really ever to be honest for anything I do to the car and even for the interior, working on stereos and such, ect.
 
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