ive heard my sumitomo tires can do it, and my only having 2.87 - 2.93 ish degrees of caster. someone told me i should be aiming for 6 degrees but that would make the car bumpsteer all over the place. ive got allot of new stuff in the front end. what else can make it wander around?
93 LX
Founding Member
Caster or Camber? Caster isnt that adjustable with stock plates. Tie rods both inner and outter will cause it. Also bad rack bushings and control arm bushings. On my 86 it was ball joints....
alignment is as follows: left - right
caster 2.87 2.92
camber -.66 -.70
toe -.14 -.15
its got mm cc plates, new moog balljoints and tie rod ends, new rack and pinion and pump, solid aluminum bushings for the rack, and new poly ca bushings. it does it mainly on un even roads. smooth roads is fine really. usually does it on rutted or bumpy roads.
and these tires are directionals for sure (sumitomo htr z II), thats their design, that might be it but i want to figure out what it is before i splurge on a new set of tires
caster 2.87 2.92
camber -.66 -.70
toe -.14 -.15
its got mm cc plates, new moog balljoints and tie rod ends, new rack and pinion and pump, solid aluminum bushings for the rack, and new poly ca bushings. it does it mainly on un even roads. smooth roads is fine really. usually does it on rutted or bumpy roads.
and these tires are directionals for sure (sumitomo htr z II), thats their design, that might be it but i want to figure out what it is before i splurge on a new set of tires
strtrcr50
New Member
When you changed all the front end parts, did you torque down all the parts with the suspension hanging in the air? If so, try loosening up everything, putting the weight on the wheels, and retorquing.
ive tighened stuff while its on the ground. only thing im not sure is tightenough is the spindle to balljoint nuts, its just allot of work to get to them, and ive made sure my control arms were tight on the ground before, but they were initially tightened in the air. if i push left right on the front i get a bushing like squak kinda. i can replicate it by spinning the strut by the top mount bolt. it does it when i sit in it too, it will make a little bit of noise.
Poly bushings squeek. It's the nature of the beast.ive tighened stuff while its on the ground. only thing im not sure is tightenough is the spindle to balljoint nuts, its just allot of work to get to them, and ive made sure my control arms were tight on the ground before, but they were initially tightened in the air. if i push left right on the front i get a bushing like squak kinda. i can replicate it by spinning the strut by the top mount bolt. it does it when i sit in it too, it will make a little bit of noise.
You still have to check your "toe".
Poly/Urethane bushings squeek. It's the nature of the beast.ive tighened stuff while its on the ground. only thing im not sure is tightenough is the spindle to balljoint nuts, its just allot of work to get to them, and ive made sure my control arms were tight on the ground before, but they were initially tightened in the air. if i push left right on the front i get a bushing like squak kinda. i can replicate it by spinning the strut by the top mount bolt. it does it when i sit in it too, it will make a little bit of noise.
You still have to check your "toe".
smooth roads is fine really. usually does it on rutted or bumpy roads.
and these tires are directionals for sure (sumitomo htr z II), thats their design, that might be it but i want to figure out what it is before i splurge on a new set of tires
i think the tires are whats causing this, just in the fact that you said the car is fine on smooth roads. My lightning did the same thing, and it was much more noticable with that truck cause it had big 295 tires on the front.
i think the tires are whats causing this, just in the fact that you said the car is fine on smooth roads. My lightning did the same thing, and it was much more noticable with that truck cause it had big 295 tires on the front.
it holds pretty still on smooth surfaces it just does it in rutted roads.
i shoulda clarified, thats what they put it at when they aligned it, then i reported that here, and thats what i copied and pasted, since that, after my alignment my friends dad put the ps rack in there for me which required him to redo toe. he made it tow in a total of 1/8th an inch. so i copied that from my build thread but the toe is 1.8th inch in. sorry for the confusion
strtrcr50
New Member
So, 5speedsteed, did you torque all those nice new bushings while the suspension was hanging in the air?
i torqued the control arms down where they normally sit with my springs, and by torqued meaning they are tight, and havent streteched any bolts. ive tightened the cc plate bolts (all of them) and the struts (top and bottom, all 3 bolts ) , and tightened the control arms down while its sitting. and the rack bolts, and tie rods. if theres a way to tighten the balljoint spindle nut down while its on the ground id pay good money to see that. what are you suggesting strtrcr? loosen then tighten everything while its sitting?
Mainly on control arms, you should have the suspension loaded before you torque the fasteners. This is easier to do if you have ramps to lower the wheels down on (it's the only way I can properly torque end links as well).
If you have any poly bushings, that can change things (as the poly isn't often bonded to the sleeve).
If you have any poly bushings, that can change things (as the poly isn't often bonded to the sleeve).
Beasty306GT
Active Member
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