What can cause coolant in the oil?

[ATISTANG]

Other than intake gasket and head gasket

I got around 2500 miles on the dss long block i bought a few years ago

Everything have been fine, i've changed the oil every 500 or so miles. Today i had a very small amount of milkshake in the oil

It still runs fine, theres no white smoke, its not over heating

I went to the track and made a few passes before i changed the oil, and i don't have a breather or pcv (i know, i'm a retard) so my crankcase pressure was very high.

could it be the timing cover that leaked some coolant into the oil?

 

[Mussemies]

Was the milkshake on dipstick or oil filler cap?

If dipstick then head gasket most certainly, i don't think water gets in from timing cover. Crack in block or cylinder head may also be the cause but rarely.

If oil filler cap then there is nothing to worry about, it is condensed water and it is very common in cold weather.

 

[Turd Tops]

I have seen the timing cover go bad and cause that very problem. I know it's very rare but i have seen that problem and never count it out. I'm not saying thats your problem but i have seen it once before. May i add that engine was very old and very high miles

 

[mob]

Sounds like a headgasket. If it was an intake gasket, you would probably get smoke, I've had my intake gasket go bad and had no coolant in the oil. If it is just a SMALL SMALL amount of light brown looking coolant it can be condensation, but since you said you took it to the track, and if there is a noticible amount of coolant in the oil, than it may be a head gasket and you just havent driven it long enough to lose enough coolant for it to overheat. A head gasket can be blown and no smoke.

Whether it is overheating or not though, you should NOT drive the car if there is coolant in the oil.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Could always try a compression test. Change the oil and see if theres milky stuff in the oil. If you have grommets its very easy for moisture to get under the valve cover.

No Crankcase venting and you begin to put pressure on the weakest points. Usually gaskets. Lack of proper crank case venting has cause leaks from the following gaskets...Valve cover, Front and rear seal of lower intake, Rear main seal Etc. Those gases are caustic and are something you don't want staying inside your engine. You're building alot of pressure.

 

[2000xp8]

It very well can be the timing cover gasket, expecially if the coolant wasn't changed often. It gets acidic and eats right through it.
For the most part, the odds are it's the head gasket though.

Mob is right, don't drive the car, unless you want to completely ruin the shortblock.

 

[ATISTANG]

i just changed the oil, what came out of the pan looked fine, there was just some milky stuff in the oil cap.

i'm gonna pull the plugs and see what they look like

I'll be pissed if its a head gasket, i only have about 2500miles on this block, its o ringed too


I'm hoping its just an intake gasket

 

[90lxcoupe]

i just changed the oil, what came out of the pan looked fine, there was just some milky stuff in the oil cap.

i'm gonna pull the plugs and see what they look like

I'll be pissed if its a head gasket, i only have about 2500miles on this block, its o ringed too


I'm hoping its just an intake gasket

You shouldnt blame the shortblock if you blew a head gasket, you mentioned you went to the track, and that you have no breather system on the motor(which is really stupid, you probly spent a few bucks on that DSS motor), so i'd guess that you may have detonated the motor and blown a head gasket, i really dowbt its an intake gasket, they usually dont blow around the water jackets if they are installed correctly, and the motor would most likely have a vaccum leak if the lower intake was loose

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Before Removing a pump and timing cover try doing a coolant system pressure test.

 

[ATISTANG]

Before Removing a pump and timing cover try doing a coolant system pressure test.

good point

 

[ATISTANG]

and that you have no breather system on the motor(which is really stupid,

yeah i know. this is what happened

when i bought it with the procharger on it it was set up with a 1/4 inch line running from a nipple on the valve cover to a tee that went to the pcv then to the ground

that was not sufficient but i never really thought about it because the guy said he drove it like that for years

well when i put the stroker in i realized that day I was gonna start it for the first time that i needed a better way to vent the crankcase, but i figured just for initial run in it will do. Well the initial run in was a mess because it didn't want to stay at a steady rpm. after desperately working the throttle to get it to stay around 2k and changing the oil all that was in my mind was why won't this thing run right.

I first went over all the grounds, then i found one that had broke under the throttle body, so i fixed that and it didn't act any better. all it would do is idle, if you tried to rev it just wanted to die. so after double checking the timing, fuel pump, grounds, injectors, egr valve, wiring....etc i kept thinking that it acted like something with the mass air screwed up, and i was also getting codes for mass air voltage to high and low.

So i called Professional Mass Air Systems to double check the calibration of my protube. I told them what was going on and they told me it didn't matter how they calibrated it, it would still run and be driveable, it would just be to rich or lean, then they told me I must have it wired wrong, so i told them that i wired it the way the instructions said. they told me to reverse 2 of the wires. I did that and things got worst, i call them back. after about 4 phone calls things only got worst. for what ever reason i decided to take the blower plumbing off the end of the MAF and drive it, it ran just fine.

So i called them back yet again and told them that, they said it is because i wired it wrong and told me to reverse another 2 wires. then the car wouldn't even start.

this went on for about 6 months, i would screw with it all week, get fed up and be 99.9% sure that it is something to do with the MAF, call them, they would feed me some bull **** to try, i'd try that, get fed up, call back.

Anyways one faithful day i called and a guy told me to read the numbers on the MAF to him, i did that and he said "well thats your problem, you have the wrong MAF. That one is set up for a suck through, your running a blow through, and that elbow right before the meter screws with them unless you get the one calibrated for it." I've never been so mad yet at the same time relieved in my life.

So they wanted me to pay shipping, and pay to have it calibrated. I bet every person on my street could hear me yelling in the phone at that point. They ended up paying for it. Got it back and all is good.

Then 6 months after putting in the new engine i get to take it down the street, then i had cooling problems. then idle surge problems, then this, then that, then ignition problems.....

well after 2 years of tinkering to get it drive able for more than 10 mins i forgot all about the crank case breather issues. after my third pass at the track when i noticed my pcv valve had popped out i remembered


so yes i am stupid for running it like that, but at least i have an excuse lol

 

[ATISTANG]

i pulled all the plugs today, they all looked fine, tad rich but i expected that. i told the guy that tuned it i wanted it more on the safe side



i just got to figure out what gaskets to replace first

i'm temped to just buy a new intake manifold that way i have a cooler reason to pull the intake manifold off lol