it's been like this since last octoberish, when i swapped on my heads and cam, but my car doesn't get past around 140*, according to my factory gauge. it worked fine before the swap so i'm somewhat trusting of it.
what could keep my car from fully warming up?
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1991notchbackLX
Active Member
i was gonna say the same thing, thermostat stuck open... i've learned never to trust new thermostats, i've had more than my fair share of bad ones right out of the box, i always test them in hot water before i put them on
it's blows warm. it's never had the best heater though. it's running so cold, i'm pretty sure it's not getting out of open loop. i believe it may be part of the reason my car is dumping so much fuel.
Closed loop is a function of exhaust temperatures (lighting off the O2's). It generally takes 30-120 seconds to occur.
A stuck stat sounded possible to me too. Otherwise, your stock gauge might be really off. Mine was off 35* (too cool) at 190*F, for instance.
A stuck stat sounded possible to me too. Otherwise, your stock gauge might be really off. Mine was off 35* (too cool) at 190*F, for instance.
alright, i'll try a new t-stat and if that doesn't work then i'll cough up the dough for a new gauge. thanks
Might wanna check around and see if anyone has a laser temp gauge. It won't give you as accurate of a reading as the coolant will but it'll tell you if the gauge is really wrong or not.
Seriously if you want to find what temp you are running, get a IR spot thermometer for about $40-$70, or a candy thermometer from the grocery store for about $8
IR thermometer
See ThermoWorks – IR-Mini Infrared Thermometer
Candy Thermometer
See ANTOnline.com - Taylor 3505 Taylor Precision Products Candy/Deep Fryer Thermometer 3505
IR thermometer
See ThermoWorks – IR-Mini Infrared Thermometer
Candy Thermometer
See ANTOnline.com - Taylor 3505 Taylor Precision Products Candy/Deep Fryer Thermometer 3505
yeah, where would i point the IR therm or stick the candy therm? i have an IR thermometer somewhere, just gotta find it.
I was just thinking, why don't we see more mechanical temp gauges? I would totally run one if there was a setup that you could put in a hose...like a T fitting that you could cut a hose in half and put the T fitting in and have the gauge on the T. I know it wouldn't work for in-car readings but it would be great for at the track when you're just monitoring your temp in the pits. I've gotta look into this...
The answer has been here all along...
Alternate placement for a temp gauge sender or temp switch/temp sensor for an electric fan. Use the heater feed that comes off the intake manifold. Cut the rubber hose that connects the manifold water feed to the heater and splice in a tee adapter for the temp gauge sender. Be sure to use the same water feed line as the ECT sensor. That way you will get the most accurate temp readings.
Tee adapter info:
Make a pilgrimage to your local hardware or home supply center and get some copper pipe and a tee that fits the temp gauge sender. Solder two pieces of copper pipe onto a copper pipe tee with threads in the tee part. Find the correct brass fitting to match the temp sender threads to the tee fitting.
Yeah i saw that the first time you posted it (lol) where's the mechanical gauge though? I'm thinking just a simple gauge that'll screw into the T instead of dealing with wiring...kinda like a fuel pressure gauge.
If you have a stat housing with a 3/8" NPT tapped port, it would be very simple to add the gauge. The only issue is that this location will not be very accurate if the stat sticks closed.
You might be interested in the new radiator caps with a gauge in the cap itself.
Yeah i thought about that right after i posted. I guess that'd probably be easiest as far as a simple under hood gauge goes.
LiquidGT
Member
+1
I had a 195 thermo that made the car run at 160.
I had a gauge in that spot at one time; you could see the thermo slowly open up. Then then the flood gates would open and the gauge would swing to the operating temp, it was kind of cool to watch. I have a fan switch in the thermo housing now.
Take the radiator cap off and stick it in the coolant. The system doesn't start to really pressurize until it gets above 190 degrees. The driver's side will be a little cooler than the passenger side because the passenger side gets the hot coolant from the thermostat.
Maryland Stang
Active Member
The problem with those type of gauges is they measure on the opposite side of the rad from where the intake hose attaches. In other words the water has already been through the rad and cooled. It's the same deal with sticking the candy thermometer in the radiator cap opening.
The point was that for someone who doesn't want to install a dedicated temp gauge, this is a simple way to get a decent idea of temps (without the risk of getting burned, and while having the system under pressure).
