What did I do

nards444

Member
Feb 18, 2020
68
18
18
NY
Just kidding bought my first FB this weekend. Got it for 5k body probably a 7ish out of 10, engine and interior good. Well see how far I want to take this. Few minor things should have her ready, and if anything at what I bought in, seems like it would be easy to get my money back. But I have a few questions, i did search the forums some did some information but looking at updated information.

1. Famous rear quarter windows. Looks like there is place that restores them, but soon they are changing 899, to steep for me, but already cruising ebay and such it seems for much cheaper I can get some that pretty good. Want to keep the mustang in the glass. Anybody else know a place that restores them for cheaper than above

2. Clutch. Winter here and was really was only able to drive it on and off trailer and in the driveway some. But noticed a few things. It seems like a very high RPM until the clutch grabs to me, also in reverse it grabs at high rpm then kicks it out of reverse. Ive noticed that seems common on these. From what I was told it has a cobra clutch. Think this is a simple adjustment, or need a new clutch. Owner drove around with it said he didnt have problems, but car came with a new clutch in the box, lends to believe the clutch is on its way out

3. Trying to piece things together, have a lot of receipts, but the guy i bought from really had a no idea. I have verified a lot of this, but wondering where this engine stands in terms of HP. IM thinking this is the 350hp kit. But this is what has been done, bored to 306, e303 cam, cobra manifold and intake, headers, exhaust, upgraded fuel pump
 
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What color are the fuel injectors ? Sounds like 250 at the wheels to me. Could be less.

Sounds like a clutch issue to me. The reverse issue is kinda normal but is a sign of the transmission being due for overhaul. Not a major issue if it isn't popping out of second. Usually, guys just hold the shifter back in reverse.
 
What color are the fuel injectors ? Sounds like 250 at the wheels to me. Could be less.

Sounds like a clutch issue to me. The reverse issue is kinda normal but is a sign of the transmission being due for overhaul. Not a major issue if it isn't popping out of second. Usually, guys just hold the shifter back in reverse.

Like I said have to drive it some more. Could be clutch engagement is just at the top of the letting the pedal out, but felt like it needed more RPM to grab. Going to monkey around with some more, might be some just getting used to. Either way take it to a tranny shop this spring, already have a new clutch in the box

Have to check the injector colors, those numbers make sense, with parasitic loss would put the car int he low 300s or so at the fly.
 
Spend the money and do it once. The guy who did it cheaper was taking forever to get windows back and got backed up the other company is worth the money.

I have the cheaper redone windows .
While they are nice they are not the same quality as what fox resto is doing
 
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Spend the money and do it once. The guy who did it cheaper was taking forever to get windows back and got backed up the other company is worth the money.

I have the cheaper redone windows .
While they are nice they are not the same quality as what fox resto is doing
THing is for 800 bucks I can find used ones that are satisfactory shape for about 150 per window and would rather go that route. Just didnt know if there somebody doing a good job for less.
 
What color are the fuel injectors ? Sounds like 250 at the wheels to me. Could be less.

Sounds like a clutch issue to me. The reverse issue is kinda normal but is a sign of the transmission being due for overhaul. Not a major issue if it isn't popping out of second. Usually, guys just hold the shifter back in reverse.

Injectors are gray with what looks to be or orange or red top
 
If they are red they are 30lb....if orange they are stock 19lb. On my 306 with E cam I had more power with 24lb blue top injectors and matching MAF sensor. Swapped to 30s and switched back. You never mentioned what year it is.

The factory heads don't really put out much. I had a set of ported factory heads that had bigger 1.90 2.02 valves. The major port work was done on the exhaust side. The intake side was ported matched with a cobra lower. For the time ( about 15yrs ago ) it was respectable...but I still doubt it made 300hp at the rear wheels.

Pictures would be real nice. If using a phone it's really easy. Just tap the attach files box and chose pictures to upload.
 
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If they are red they are 30lb....if orange they are stock 19lb. On my 306 with E cam I had more power with 24lb blue top injectors and matching MAF sensor. Swapped to 30s and switched back. You never mentioned what year it is.

The factory heads don't really put out much. I had a set of ported factory heads that had bigger 1.90 2.02 valves. The major port work was done on the exhaust side. The intake side was ported matched with a cobra lower. For the time ( about 15yrs ago ) it was respectable...but I still doubt it made 300hp at the rear wheels.

Pictures would be real nice. If using a phone it's really easy. Just tap the attach files box and chose pictures to upload.

Car is an 87 but after tracking down two previous owners that motor is not original. What was listed but unable to verify is the following bored to 306, cobra heads, and intake, E303 cam, BBK fuel pump and MSD cap and rotor. What I have verified is the BBK headers, BBK CAI to the fender, and I think that is a cobra intake.

As far as the injectors they are gray, guess could be blue not sure.
 
Injectors are getting harder to identify. With fading over the years and the different brands it's no longer just the ford colors to go by.

The 87 doesn't have a MAF and the factory computer is picky about mods. With the mods listed it would need a chip in the computer to run its best.
 
Doesn't appear to be a genuine Ford Cobra Intake, it's missing the Ford Motorsport (now called Ford Performance) nameplate.
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Yours still has the 2G 75A alternator; you can tell by the external fan.

Let's see the rest of the intake (passenger side), can't tell if it's SD or MAF
 
Doesn't appear to be a genuine Ford Cobra Intake, it's missing the Ford Motorsport (now called Ford Performance) nameplate.


Actually the intake he has is the original version, the later produced versions had the Ford Motorsport logo cast into it. Look at the intake on a stock '93 Cobra.


Also looks like your car used to have AC and the smog pump is removed/bypassed. Serpentine belt tensioner is not in factory location either.
 
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Is anyone doing the hatch rear windows? I thought the email was just for coupe rear side windows. That’s going to make a difference on what you get done.
not sure my car is a hatchback but I was talking the rear quarter windows. I can find plenty on the internet that are in ok to pretty good shape vs the 900 bucks that company wants.

Im not really interested in show car quality. Im looking for everything to work and to have just a nice old car. Given the age of the car I bought 1 to 10 probably give it about a 7 again given its age. All considered would be happy to get it to like an 8 or 9 level
 
The rubber on my quarter windows was deteriorating as well. I scuffed mine smooth (or close to it), applied adhesion promoter and a high build primer. I then sanded smooth and painted with gloss black (could use same paint as you would on the window trims for everything to match). I am happy with the outcome, some may want the natural rubber look.
 
You should really fix your belt routing, and put the tensioner back where it belongs beside the alternator. The way it is running now the ribbed part of the belt is running across the smooth pulley of the tensioner. The tensioner has no ribs in the pulley and is meant to put tension on the smooth part (back) of the belt, not the ribbed part.
 
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Likely moved the tensioner because they didn"t want to get or make an A/C delete bracket and pulley or buy one. Or not move the PS pump up to where A/C was (just like it is on non-A/C cars).

If tensioner was left in the stock location and they didn't do either of the above, I believe the belt would hit top of water pump on its way to PS pump from alternator.

Basically they tried a jury-rigged way to get it done. I agree that this configuration could lead to premature wear on the belt because only the tips of the ribs are touching the pulley and all the force generated by the tensioner will be squeezing against the belt rib tips increasing the stress on them. Not to mention it could wander on the pulley.

Actually it looks like the belt is already one rib off the tensioner. You can also see a distinct line on the belt where the valley of the first rib would be.