What do the gears really do?

You'll pick up some rpms but you'll theoretically lose some top end. With say 4.10s your motor will turn the driveshaft 4.1 times around for each wheel revolution as opposed to say 3.27 times around which makes your engine work a little harder to get the car up to speed. The result is that you make better use of your engine's torque which will provide you with quicker accelleration. It's a matter of choice on which gears to get, most will tell you go with 4.10s and many are happy with 3.73s. Either one is a great improvement over stock. As for top end, your 'theoretical' top end with your current stock gearing would be around 225 MPH @ 6000 RPMs (75MPH @ 2000 RPMS x 3). Many factors will keep you from going over say 150 MPH (Wind resistance, etc) so acquiring say 4.10 gearing, your 'theoretical' top end may get lowered to around 165 MPH (est of 55MPH @ 2000 RPMS x 3) at 6000 RPMs. Of course you might not reach your top end with the narrower gears either, but you might actually increase your 'real' top end by a couple of MPH as you'll have more available torque & HP going through the drivetrain. Hope this helps!

189.00 for parts b4 tax then the cost of installation

BrabraBoY said:

I don't know where to find parts!!!

Click to expand...

www.mustangtuning.com kind of expensive but good quality products/customer service

Ok couple of things for you to keep in mind with an offroad pipe it will trip your CEL unless you put MILS on either solder in jobs from somewhere like ebay or plug and plays. Also are you at all mechanical inclined, have tools, a place to work, jack and stands. If you can honestly answer yes to all of those you can do the pipe yourself. Now yes a lift and an o2 socket does make life soooo much easier but it is not a must have. I mean we are talking a total of 16 bolts total or at worse case 20 that is counting loosing and tightening. and the o2's twice for a total of dealing with them 8 times a turning.
Gears are great pick the ratio you like but I say 4.10's. Install prices vary check around in your area ($200 here), also ask if they install parts you bring or only parts they provide and if they will only do certain ones. If they will install gears you bring in I got mine for 189.95 delivered, you will also need an install kit I recommend a master bearing kit they are 80, if the shop will use supplies you provide you might wanna go ahead and spend money on some synthentic gear oil (royal purple is suppose to be the best) or regular gear oil and some friction modifier $20. Can you install your own gears, well to be honest if you have to ask that question I would not suggest it. I've done them in the past (didn't like it but was broke) and could do it again (but won't unless I'm broke) luckily for me there is a local shop he is tring to get on his feet he gives good prices and is quick.
Another thing if you go with gears and want an accurate speedo you will need to have something to calibrate it for the gears. Tuner, chip, speedcal. You can pick up used speed cal's for 75 or less shipped or new for 100. tuner is about 400 or less.
Also I cann't say it enough times hit the classifieds on here I have been lucky and picked up several parts at very good prices, also Ebay is a great place to score cheaper than normal parts.
You didn't mention it but I will think about some subframe connector. If you can weld it's like 30min and it keeps the panels straight on the car, and makes everything else work better. Also I'll pm you my list tonight of what I got and prices paid if you want.

get 4.10's and be happy

Do not get any other gear set than a Ford Racing kit. Motives are crap, as are all others.

THe brand of x-pipe won't make too much of a difference. From experience, id say either get a Bassani X-Pipe to go with the flows or a UPR/MustangTuning X-Pipe. THey sound very good mated with the 40-series Flowmasters. Don't go with the BBK X-Pipe from what i hear

Not so much the power but more from launch it hard. If your wanting to hop it up you drive it harder than the average owner (ok who doesn't drive a mustang hard) that they designed for. The subframe tie the front and back together (I know DUH) there by making what you are putting down go to moving you forward as a whole car not just the back end of the car. If you do it I suggest just before welding them in take the car for a short hammer pass maybe a quick launch and a 1-2 shift. Then repeat with the connectors installed. You should notice the car feels more like it jumps instead of just setting sideways (but man that is fun) also it doesn't tend to kick out as much on a 1-2 upshift either.
Also if you live in an area with lots of mustang/ camaro's go out and look at the hard runners if they didn't tie the subs together you will notice that the gaps don't look just right . Usually most noticeable on the door gaps in the front looks like a wedge. That is from the car tring to twist itself. Also considering price of them (ebay as cheap as 60 del.) anybody should do it. If you work at a shop with a welder when the boss is gone pull her up there and lay some beads down. If your good at welding (or someone there is) go ahead and weld the axle tubes too.
Offroad pipe depends on the sound you want and $ you wanna spend I picked up a used prochamber (was on car for 6 mos) for 90 bucks. Mils ebay 9.99 shipped. But I'm a cheapskate who can work on stuff. I do know Mac does not warranty anything bought off ebay though. Of course if fundage is tight and you don't need a set of cats for emission testing you could gut those kitty's.