what happens if I remove my ads superchip and not switch back the original octane bar

1987 5.0 5 speed '86 speed density engine

I want to remove the chip which requires I stay at 10* timing and bump the timing myself. Now I have the OEM octane bar I switched out of the distributor 10 years ago...should I put it back? What does it do?
 
Looks like you and I are in the same boat...I need to know too. Have you considered switching to MAF. I really don't want too because of the money, but I may not have a choice in the future, really limited on mods!
 
I did consider switching to MAF and I too am concerned about price. But did you consider this...I have a 65mm TB and therefore the stock size MAF meter would be a bottle neck. We would have to ditch the new meter in favor of a $300. 70mm one!
 
garystocker said:
I did consider switching to MAF and I too am concerned about price. But did you consider this...I have a 65mm TB and therefore the stock size MAF meter would be a bottle neck. We would have to ditch the new meter in favor of a $300. 70mm one!

A Pro-M or profession Mass air system whatever they are called now has 80mms for around 240s. You can find them used for much cheaper than that. Pro-M 80mm is probably one of the best meters around in my opinion.
 
Why Switch to MAF? No reason for it these days.

I run a 1986 Carpi with Gt40p's, ported stock intake, stock cam, bored out 63mm throttle body. Makes 241 rwhp, drives beautiful. Just ran a 13.54 at 100 mph on street tires at 4800 feet....

You can tune Speed Density cars now with A Tweecer or chip.

If you wanna go boosted, the best wasy is to add a pressure relief to the map sensor line, and then run a $250 additional injector controller for fueling under boost....

I had an old ball drive Paxton on my old 87 and it ran low 12's with speed density, B303 cam and Dart heads...

"Octane bar" was just a way to advance the timing without you actually having to set the timing.... just set your timing up where you want it, wont make a difference...
 
AFAIK, you can leave the 'octane bar' in and just advantce the timing like you normally would. Just do it the same way we all do -- try a little, listen for pinging, try a little more, etc. Or you could probably just set it to about 14 degrees and leave it alone. I don't recall those little bars really doing much of anything.