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What id the best valve spring tool to change springs on the 4.6?

  • Thread starter Thread starter rcn4him
  • Start date Start date Mar 3, 2004

rcn4him

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Mar 3, 2004
#1
  • Mar 3, 2004
  • #1
What is the best valve spring tool to change springs on the 4.6?

Obviously with the engine in the car. Is it hard to get compressed air in the cylinder with the plugs being so deep in the head? Any info would be greatly appreciated as far as processes and procedures! Anything you don't want to do? I like Anderson Ford's idea on keeping the sprocket and chain alignment without taking the cam chain covers off. I would think you could zip tie the cam chain to the cam sprockets and not lose cam timing on the newer 4.6's
(assuming you can easily get the sprockets off the cams)

What do you think?

Thanks!
 

rcn4him

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#2
  • Mar 3, 2004
  • #2
rcn4him said:
Obviously with the engine in the car. Is it hard to get compressed air in the cylinder with the plugs being so deep in the head? Any info would be greatly appreciated as far as processes and procedures! Anything you don't want to do? I like Anderson Ford's idea on keeping the sprocket and chain alignment without taking the cam chain covers off. I would think you could zip tie the cam chain to the cam sprockets and not lose cam timing on the newer 4.6's
(assuming you can easily get the sprockets off the cams)

What do you think?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
ttt anybody out thier?
 

nickthegenius

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Dec 23, 2002
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sir_not_appearing.home.insightbb.com
Mar 3, 2004
#3
  • Mar 3, 2004
  • #3
This is the tool I bought. Lots of guys have used it because you can't use a regular valve tool if the heads are on the car.
http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7928.html

Try this thread for info on getting air in the cylinders. I think the info is on Page 2. There is also info about another tool that will save you 3-4hrs for $30.
http://forums.modulardepot.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19987
 

WLD_WST

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#4
  • Mar 3, 2004
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The first tool Nick showed, is the one I used when I did my cams. Its very simple to use.



Now that second tool is one I'd leave to a expert, because if you screw up the timing you'll be doing the job a second time.
 

rcn4him

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WLD_WST said:
The first tool Nick showed, is the one I used when I did my cams. Its very simple to use.



Now that second tool is one I'd leave to a expert, because if you screw up the timing you'll be doing the job a second time.
Click to expand...

How could you screw up the timing if the chain is temporarily attatched to the sprocket by wire or zip ties?
 

WLD_WST

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  • Mar 3, 2004
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rcn4him said:
How could you screw up the timing if the chain is temporarily attatched to the sprocket by wire or zip ties?
Click to expand...

Well I just read the whole thread from MD. None of those guys has used the tool and the zip tie idea was just a idea not a confirmed way of doing it. Give it a whirl, but I'll do mine the old fashioned way.
 

nickthegenius

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  • Mar 3, 2004
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I have the tool coming my way. Whoever is making them for AFM hasn't finished the first batch yet so it may be a couple weeks. I'll give a full report on here how things go.

Oh, and BTW if you order the valvespring tool from the link I gave, that company is very quick in getting parts out.
 

lman657

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I think that the actual tool from ford is about that same price... that's what I bought

Also, you're gonna need the engine in time because:

1, you don't want to pull off the front timing cover... that's a big pain and you don't need to do it if you are changing springs. If you are putting in a cam, however, you will have to, so that's not an option.

2 You don't want to worry about pushing a valve on a piston when you're installing them, or turning it over.

Don't pull the rocker arm out until the valve is at Zero lift, and if the other piston's valve is open, that's even better, because then you know the piston is down.

I don't know what good zip ties would do, and timing your engine is somewhat simple, just put the chain's opposite links on the dimple on the timing gear and sprocket. Also, you must put the engine in safe mode, get the cams tied, and bring it back up to #1 TDC... there's articles out there that can say it better than i

You probably know this all already, but just thought i'd try and help.

good luck,

Lance
 

nickthegenius

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#9
  • Mar 3, 2004
  • #9
lman657 said:
I think that the actual tool from ford is about that same price... that's what I bought

Also, you're gonna need the engine in time because:

1, you don't want to pull off the front timing cover... that's a big pain and you don't need to do it if you are changing springs. If you are putting in a cam, however, you will have to, so that's not an option.
Click to expand...

Why would you have to pull the front cover if changing the cams? Not sure I'm following you there. I haven't pulled my car apart yet, but looking at my new cams there is a keyway so you can only install the cam/sprocket in one direction eliminating the chance that the timing is screwed up because of the cam. As long as that tool holds everything in place as it is supposed to, then everything should go back together just fine.
 

rcn4him

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#10
  • Mar 3, 2004
  • #10
lman657 said:
I think that the actual tool from ford is about that same price... that's what I bought

Also, you're gonna need the engine in time because:

1, you don't want to pull off the front timing cover... that's a big pain and you don't need to do it if you are changing springs. If you are putting in a cam, however, you will have to, so that's not an option.

2 You don't want to worry about pushing a valve on a piston when you're installing them, or turning it over.

Don't pull the rocker arm out until the valve is at Zero lift, and if the other piston's valve is open, that's even better, because then you know the piston is down.

Thanks for all the info

I don't know what good zip ties would do, and timing your engine is somewhat simple, just put the chain's opposite links on the dimple on the timing gear and sprocket. Also, you must put the engine in safe mode, get the cams tied, and bring it back up to #1 TDC... there's articles out there that can say it better than i

You probably know this all already, but just thought i'd try and help.

good luck,

Lance
Click to expand...
 

boris

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Feb 22, 2004
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Mar 3, 2004
#11
  • Mar 3, 2004
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I've done quite a bit of engine work on 4.6's. I haven't had the chance to do the cams with the motor in the car yet but I'm very familiar with all the internals. So, here's my opinion: there are two reasons why I'd remove the timing cover. Even if the cam sprockets were zip-tied to the chain, there is a chance the chain could fall out of time down on the crank sprocket if allowed to drop loose. Second, the timing chain tensioners are spring loaded with a one-way ratchet. If the chains become loose, the tensioners can ratchet out and you'll never get them back in without dissasembly. Maybe, just maybe one could devise a tool that could wedge down between the chain guides and hold both the chain and tensioners in place while the cams are replaced. Maybe...
 

TJM01

Patience is a GD virtue
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#12
  • Mar 3, 2004
  • #12
nickthegenius said:
As long as that tool holds everything in place as it is supposed to, then everything should go back together just fine.
Click to expand...

And if it doesn't? For the amount of time it takes to pull the cover and set the timing - it's worth it IMHO.
 
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