What is going on here? This is crazy

jbuening

Member
Apr 28, 2005
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Every once in awhile things will go haywire on my 70 mach, gonna have to name her Christine. What had just happened is really hard to explain in words, so bear with me. FYI, the car has factory tach, duraspark ignition, stock 351w and FMX auto trans.

Last week i was driving about 40mph and all of a sudden the car felt like it died. The gas pedal was unresponsive, the factory tachometer read 0 (flatlined), and i began to decelerate and coast to the side of the road. At first i glanced at the tach and it read 0 (bottomed out) but I could still hear the exhaust rumbling somewhat. It wasn't loud like at idle but could still hear it. I quickly stuck it in neutral (without restarting the car!) and the gas pedal was now responsive and i could rev the motor up, with the tach working properly. Once i put it in neutral, I could actually hear the motor rev back up to the idle rpms (similar to downshifting). Figured it was just a one-time deal and stuck it back in drive and away i went. This didn't happen again until a few weeks later on my way to work. Now i figure i better do something before i get stranded somewhere. Its just weird cause i could hear the exhaust but the car felt and sounded like the motor died, wasn't feeling any vibrations from the motor like normal. When i shifted into neutral the rpms on the tach rose to 800rpms and i could actually hear the motor running again.

Is there any possible reasoning for this? I know a motor can't be at 0rpms and still have exhaust flowing. I'd also understand if the car just flat out died in drive then i would have had to restart the car in neutral (when moving). Would it would have anything to do with the factory tach or neutral safety switch? I could understand it being the tach, by cutting out the spark, but why would it matter if i was in drive? At first i thought my transmission went out, when the motor went back to normal when i put it in neutral. Then i stuck it in drive and everything was normal again. Maybe a wire that rattled loose when driving? Anyways, Christine thanks your for your suggested solutions :lol:
 
You should have a ground strap that grounds the engine block to the chassis. Mine goes from the back of the intake manifold to the export brace mount on the firewall.

Also check the ground from the negative battery cable to the block
 
check the coil connections out very good, possibly even the coil itself, i've had a loose primary coil wire come loose and cause exactly the same kind of symptoms. i'v had also coils that similar intermittent problems. it could even be the factory tach connections are loose or have an open circuit somwhere in the wiring that only goes open intermittently.

my guess is that it is almost certainly ignition related somewhere between the dash and the coil, possibly even a bad ignition switch but i kind of doubt it's the switch although i've had ignition switch problems cause many wierd issues, such as car wouldn't recharge the battery unless ignition key was moved slightly after starting almost like it was stuck somewhere between start and run and other times having to actually place the ignition key in exactly the right place fo the car to even run once started
 
If your car has the factory in-dash tach that could be your problem. The tach is wired in series the resistor wire that goes to the coil, and if it is bad or going bad it could cause this problem.

(If the tach goes dead, the car will not run)
 
I had the same thing happen, and everything electrical was new. I figured I ran out of fuel, since I was running a fresh 393 with a stock pump (well, less than stock, the 351 replacement pumps are now 302s).

I put on a higher volume pump and it hasn't happened again, knock on wood. I am still not sure if I fixed it.
 
Thanks for the tips fellas. Yeah i'm still running the stock style fuel pump, so an upgrade may be in my futue :)

Yep it has the factory tach but i did the http://www.boss302.com/tach.htm conversion due to the non-tach underdash harness. I'll double check all coil and tach connections. I'd like to upgrade to a Crane Hi-6 box and coil, so maybe i'll have to bite the bullet and change it out quickly in case the current coil is acting up. Haven't had much luck with those Blaster 2/Accel chrome coils.

The whole deal was just flat out weird with the engine making no sound but the exhaust was. Thank for the help everyone, hopefully i find the problem and it doesn't happen again. Wasn't a good feeling :(