What is right way to delete Smog Pump?

5o5speed

New Member
Aug 9, 2004
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Why do companies sell the "smog pump delete" kits that put a dummy pulley in place of the smog pump? Can't you just completely remove the pump and then run a 84 &1/2 inch belt? The price of the short belt is far less than paying $70-100 for a delete kit, right?
 
Those stupid kits are a ripoff. Bypass the POS and then throw it as far as you can off a cliff. Along with all it's tubing and crap. Just cap off the two vaccume lines and cap off the back of the heads and forget about it.
 
i dont have my smog pump bypassed or hooked up to anything (xpipe capped, thermactor plugs on the heads) but i also have the a/c removed and the p/s in its place, so for ppl that are on the same boat a smog idler pulley may be needed...
 
that dummy pulley is not BS if you plan to use a supercharger eventually.... i had my smog bypassed with the shorter belt and i tryed to hook my blower up.. it simply WONT work and you NEED that dummy pulley if you dont want you smog pump... it is not needed if you are N/A tho
 
FiVeLiTeR87GT said:
that dummy pulley is not BS if you plan to use a supercharger eventually.... i had my smog bypassed with the shorter belt and i tryed to hook my blower up.. it simply WONT work and you NEED that dummy pulley if you dont want you smog pump... it is not needed if you are N/A tho

Resurrection time. I'm planning on supercharging in the future. But my belt is squealing now, so I need to replace it. I WAS gonna run a short belt and bypass the smog pump until I read your post. Why won't the SC work with a short belt?
 
FiVeLiTeR87GT said:
that dummy pulley is not BS if you plan to use a supercharger eventually.... i had my smog bypassed with the shorter belt and i tryed to hook my blower up.. it simply WONT work and you NEED that dummy pulley if you dont want you smog pump... it is not needed if you are N/A tho

There shouldn't be any trouble's if you are just turbo charging though right? I'm assuming it's belt issue's, and since turbo's aren't belt driven it would be fine to run the short belt still?

i dont have my smog pump bypassed or hooked up to anything (xpipe capped, thermactor plugs on the heads) but i also have the a/c removed and the p/s in its place, so for ppl that are on the same boat a smog idler pulley may be needed...

I plan on deleting both my A/C and smog pump, so are you saying they don't make the right belt size to do something like that, and you'll need the idler pulley in place of the smog pump?
 
I removed my smog pump because the idiot before me put a straight exhaust on my car and didn't make a place for the smog pump to enter the exhaust pipe. So when the car was running, you could hear a "brrrr" sound coming from under the car. I took off the pump and caped the tubes. No more annoying sound!

I can't remember the belt size, but I think it was a 85, 86? I know it wasn't a 84 1/2 because they didn't have that size. Plus it would have been way to small!
 
caine0 said:
There shouldn't be any trouble's if you are just turbo charging though right? I'm assuming it's belt issue's, and since turbo's aren't belt driven it would be fine to run the short belt still?

See that's what is confusing me. Cus superchargers have their own belt that runs straight to the crank. I don't see how having a short belt would effect supercharging. :shrug: Maybe FiVeLiTeR or some other blower guy can clear this up.
 
There are a couple ways to run the shorter belt. You can go around the crank first and then the water pump, or the pump and then the crank. If you do the first one you have to get a tighter belt and drill a hole behind the tensioner to clock it a little to fit. That way frees up alot of room on the side where the smog pump was.
 
I just did a search and found out that 50resto.com has an offroad kit that they sell. Delete's the smog pump and A/C, and relocates the power steering to where the A/C was. Uses a really short belt, plus under drive pulley's to give even less accessory drag.

Here's the link: 50resto Offroad Kit

Click on the instruction sheet on that page to see how the belt will be running.
 
I've seen kits that place the alternator on a swivel. Then you can use the alternator as the tensioner and toss that huge, heavy bracket thing and run a short belt. Even MORE weight savings and complexity reduction. Those idler pullies are the stupidest things I've ever seen! The idea is to REMOVE things from the car to make it lighter, not replace a useless piece of equiptment with another even more useless piece of equiptment. That idler pully does have some tiny amount of drag associated with it. It's not a freebie. Pull the pump, stick 2 RTV covered bolts into the back of the heads where the crossover airtube is, another into the airfeed tube on the cats and you are done. About 20 pounds gone. Go with the alternator swivel mount for even more weight loss.