What is the general consensus about Vortech

[deadly97snake]

I have found Vortech kits online for as little as $3,322 (V-2 satin S-trim kit) and I was wondering what everyone thinks about them. I have wanted a supercharger for the car and I really dont know if the extra $1,300+ is justified for a roots-style supercharger. Thanks

 

[steedman07]

If you are going to do a roots/twin screw type, go with a kenny Bell, Whipple or a Saleen(not Roush)..And they are more than $4,500 for a full kit I believe..anyway..
I love my Vortech..With the right tune, you will have a lot of fun.I went the cheaper$$ route with it, put 4:10's in my car, A mishimoto raditor to keep the temps down, Steeda Charge Motion Plates, and I pull 10.5 lbs of boost and 427 rwhp...Plenty of power up top in the rpms, and gets there fast with 4:10's..Its all in the tune..If I wanted to spend $5,000 + i would have went with a KB or Whipple..

 

[Hoboattacker]

If you are looking for that low end power and tq, you wont get it with a centri blower. The only way to get that is with the twin screw or roots blower. Centri is the cheapest by far, but it's basically a belt driven turbo.

 

[DrG06GT]

I have had my Vortech for about 3 months and absolutely love it. I have 4.30 gears in my automatic and it gets up there quick.

 

[LV51FER]

I have the HO Vortech and yes, one of the reasons was that it was cheaper even than a Roushcharger for a claimed 462hp.

It's my first supercharger so I can't make a direct comparison although I've had turbos in the past and I think the turbo comparison is a proper one.

The first thing about centris is they are more efficient than screw-type blowers ie they take less power to run them and punch hard at the top end so you should use less gas.

Obviously, unlike a turbo, you still get an increase in power across the range but in the lower reaches, it is not strong like a screw-type blower. So the principal difference is that a screw-type gives you plenty of torque low down while a centrifugal needs you to work the gearbox if you're not going to get caught off guard.

Then again, if you believe in driving your car and not being lazy, that's how it should be. There is no lack of power once you shift down and the redline will be kissed at steam train velocity with each upshift. I changed from a C5 Z06 to mine and I'd say the performance is roughly the same.

http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Features/articleId=106967

If you google Vortech Mustang tuner test, you should find another Vortech test too.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

If you are going to do a roots/twin screw type, go with a kenny Bell, Whipple or a Saleen(not Roush)..And they are more than $4,500 for a full kit I believe..anyway.

Why not Roush? Their proven, reliable and priced accordingly?

The 427R put the Saleen S281 on the trailer in their last comparison, so it isn't for lack of power?

The first thing about centris is they are more efficient than screw-type blowers ie they take less power to run them and punch hard at the top end so you should use less gas.

There are so many things wrong with this statement, I really don't know where to begin?

 

[deadly97snake]

Well I have been doing some research on all these superchargers and I do like the vortech. My question is,

Is it nessessary to go with the H.O (high output) kit? I really dont care about the extra psi (9.5-10.5psi). The standard kit claims 7-8psi which I would be completely happy with. I do however, like the idea of the aftercooler. Would i benefit more in the longetivity and reliability departments with an aftercooler and just the 7-8psi standard kit.

Which one would be easier on my engine? 7-8psi w/o an aftercooler, or 9.5-10.5psi with the aftercooler?

I have found the satin HO kit online for $4,270 which is $950 more than the standard kit. I am just trying not to spend more money than I need to.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Personally, if the Vortech is what you're after, I'd go with the standard kit, then adapt your own air/air intercooler into the mix, instead of Vortech air/water aftercooler unit. Not only is the air to air cheaper, but it will be much more reliable and consistent for use of daily driver operation. The air/water units are fine for lower boost levels and running at the track, because you've got the ability to fill them full of ice water, (which as long as their not being pushed to hard, can drop ACT’s below ambient). The draw back to them is that they’re quite a bit more expensive and do tend to "heat soak" on hot day when in heavy traffic where air flow through the heat exchanger is limited. Not to mention when you really attempt to move any air through them, they tend to become more of a restriction, than anything.

After sorting that out, I'd then go with the smallest pulley I was able to, before belt slip became apparent. Usually that’ll get you into the 12-13psi range. What many people fail to realize is going with the smaller pulley not only increases top end charge, but picks torque up A LOT earlier on in the power band and piles on quite a bit more of it, to boot. We already know the head gaskets will take this kind of pressure with ease, and now since you’ve got an intercooler keeping ACT’s in check up top, your tuner should have no problem backing some of the timing near the top of your power band, in order to keep things bottom end friendly for your non forged short block.

Going this route allows you to pick up a lot of that bottom end torque you would normally not be privy to without the use of a positive displacement supercharger, yet keep the top end performance and lower cost of the centrifugal.

 

[Hoboattacker]

Why not Roush? Their proven, reliable and priced accordingly?

The 427R put the Saleen S281 on the trailer in their last comparison, so it isn't for lack of power?

That was because of suspension. It is widely known that the roushcharger is NOT upgradeable or expandable like the Saleen, whipple, and KB kits. Roushcharger probably couldn't hit more than 500rwhp with everything (maybe more but I doubt it) whereas the saleen, whipple, and kb can reach well over the 600rwhp mark with proper internals and tune.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

That was because of suspension.

Do you honestly believe that? The Saleen made 30 more horsepower and 25lbs ft more torque and weighed 324lbs less than the Roush and still got beat. Not to mention on an open track event like the on the two were tested on, there was no standing start for traction or suspension to be an issue. The 427R just plain out pulled the Saleen in the strait aways.

http://www.stangnet.com/component/option,com_mtree/Itemid,105/task,viewlink/link_id,128/

It is widely known that the roushcharger is NOT upgradeable or expandable like the Saleen, whipple, and KB kits. Roushcharger probably couldn't hit more than 500rwhp with everything (maybe more but I doubt it) whereas the saleen, whipple, and kb can reach well over the 600rwhp mark with proper internals and tune.

Perhaps it won't knock down the big number on the dyno that the twin screw based units will, but it's still quite a capable system none the less. Whether it'll top them or not in peak horsepower is really irrelevant to anyone who isn't planning on tearing into their engine and fortifying the bottom end, since it's perfectly capable of making enough power to break the rods and pistons as it sits.

Look at even the latest 427R MM&FF tested that knocked down 12.4's through an automatic transmission in bone stock trim and went 12.2's on drag radials. A slightly looser converter, some computer and some shift schedule tuning and you've to yourself a high-11 second performer without cracking the nut on the supercharger pulley. Not too bad IMO.

I'm not saying the Roushcharger is the best of the bunch, but It's certainly not to be discounted simply because it's not built with a Twin Screw as it's base motivation.

 

[Hoboattacker]

Do you honestly believe that? The Saleen made 30 more horsepower and 25lbs ft more torque and weighed 324lbs less than the Roush and still got beat. Not to mention on an open track event like the on the two were tested on, there was no standing start for traction or suspension to be an issue. The 427R just plain out pulled the Saleen in the strait aways.

Yeah, I believe it was mostly suspension. You can have ALL the power in the world but if you can't put it to the ground, a Miata will take you.

Perhaps it won't knock down the big number on the dyno that the twin screw based units will, but it's still quite a capable system none the less. Whether it'll top them or not in peak horsepower is really irrelevant to anyone who isn't planning on tearing into their engine and fortifying the bottom end, since it's perfectly capable of making enough power to break the rods and pistons as it sits.

Look at even the latest 427R MM&FF tested that knocked down 12.4's through an automatic transmission in bone stock trim and went 12.2's on drag radials. A slightly looser converter, some computer and some shift schedule tuning and you've to yourself a high-11 second performer without cracking the nut on the supercharger pulley. Not too bad IMO.

I'm not saying the Roushcharger is the best of the bunch, but It's certainly not to be discounted simply because it's not built with a Twin Screw as it's base motivation.

The Roushcharger is great if you don't want to go to much over 450rwhp. If you ever want to push more than that, a TS is better. Also, 450rwhp is far from throwing the rods. I mean, with crappy afr then yeah, it can, but w/ a good tune it wont. From what I've read, anything over about 460-470 is on borrowed time. How much is still questionable, but borrowed time nonetheless.

Either way, we are off topic.

The Vortech is a great and cheap kit. I would look into the Procharger also though, especially if you want that supercharger whine. The Vortech is very quiet b/c of how the gears are cut. The procharger whines like hell and has a sweet BOV, too.

 

[steedman07]

My Vortech peaks at 10.5 lbs of boost, this with NO cooler..If you Get a pro tune, and not use the overly safe canned tune from Vortech, you can get some good numbers out of it..I will put on some kind of cooler this summer because the heat soak will rob some horsepower..Keep in mind, if you do get a Vortech, make sure you relocate the IAT sensor to the correct location(in the blower tube after the blower and before the TB)..The way Vortech has it is wrong..It does not read correct inleet temps(because they have it located with the mass air housing)..My tuner found 60 rwhp over the canned tune because we relocated the IAT and he could tune much more aggresivley..

 

[cowtown]

I've had both types over the years on various cars and for on the street enjoyment and day to day drive ability the roots or twin screw types were more enjoyable compared to the centrifugal. That being said with gears the centrifugal are pretty nice and flexible around expandability, but one thing I will say around roots/twin screw types is generally speaking the installation seems tidier on top of the motor, generally less mucking around with stuff on the front of the car.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Yeah, I believe it was mostly suspension. You can have ALL the power in the world but if you can't put it to the ground, a Miata will take you.

Watch the video again. If they were going from a dig and the Saleens suspension wasn't providing adequate squat or weight transfer to sustain traction, then I could see your point and that being the issue, but suspension had nothing to do with the Saleen being pulled by the Roush in the rolling runs of the strait away where traction wasn't a problem. My guess is (like pretty much all smaller blowers) the M90 on the Roush is much more responsive and makes more usable power under the curve than the Saleens twin screw does. Big blowers have big lungs, but that deep breathing capability comes at a price.