well, an air pocket will send a coolant temp sensor to the end of the gauge almost immediately. whenever i do something involving the cooling system, i normally squeeze the top hose as im filling it to release some of the air in there. after that, i start the car and let it warm up until the thermostat opens, and shut it down about a minute after that. wait until the car cools and refill the radiator. (the level should have dropped considerably) i repeat that process twice and that is normally enough to get all the air pockets out of the system. as far as the smoke goes, can you tell where exactly it is coming from? when my head gaskets went, there was a TON of white smoke.
What is wrong with my car?
- Thread starter CManT1914
- Start date
94TURBO5 O
New Member
Yeah if you have a fouled out plug and that cylinder is not firing properly then it would miss like a mofo giving you no power. As for the white smoke as long as you don't see it in a stream like a rock concert then it prob isn't the hg just a rich cylinder.
My car was missing like a mofo when I finished up my hg install. After tons of investigating everything I didn't find the source. I noticed that same night while looking at the motor running that there was a small arc coming off the #3 boot and arcing off the block by the base of the plug. I pulled the plug and it was cracked on the ceramic part in 2 spots. So sometimes it can be the smallest thing that makes your car act funny and run like chit.
My car was missing like a mofo when I finished up my hg install. After tons of investigating everything I didn't find the source. I noticed that same night while looking at the motor running that there was a small arc coming off the #3 boot and arcing off the block by the base of the plug. I pulled the plug and it was cracked on the ceramic part in 2 spots. So sometimes it can be the smallest thing that makes your car act funny and run like chit.
WHITE94COBRA
New Member
Could of also just had a little coolant leak into the cylinders after putting heads and intake back on. (just some residual left overs), so until it just burned off it blew white smoke. let us know how the adjustment goes for ya!!!
Well I just got back from lunch, so I'm gonna start on the rockers. The smoke wasn't bad, just a little bit, nothing like you mentioned JR. I should be able to reset the rockers, then do a compression check with the VC's off and get an acccurate reading right? I should be looking for around 180 or so?
Okay what's the deal? I set the lash on the #1 cylinder, and did a compression check on it real quick, and I came up with 30psi! WTF?!?! Now I'm not so sure it was the rockers after all.
WHITE94COBRA
New Member
Ok lets see were losing a chit load of compression hmmmm, what cam are you using? Check firing order, is the car starting at all?? Is the dizzy installed correctly?? it sounds like the valves are staying open, when you had the motor stripped down did you notice anything wrong with the rings or pistons? Probably all stupid questions but it may track down a problem. Where did you get the cam from?
Sorry couldnt read your sig, that yellow really sucks!!
Ok all trick flow stuff, have you called trick flow tech support yet? If not give them a call.
Sorry couldnt read your sig, that yellow really sucks!!
Ok all trick flow stuff, have you called trick flow tech support yet? If not give them a call.
WHITE94COBRA said:
Sorry, I was hand cranking the motor to check compression. When I cranked it with the starter, I came up with 135-145 on the cylinders. Which is still really low. My pistons and rings looked fine, I still had a NICE hone on the cylinders. Even my mechanic friend who stopped by said they looked good still. The car ran GREAT before the swap, so while I never checked compression then, I wouldn't think it would have been this bad and still run so good. I also don't think I could have blown the head gaskets so bad that all the cylinders lost compression.
WHITE94COBRA
New Member
Actually thats pretty good, is the engine starting? Are you getting a backfire if and when it does start? Do you have stud mount rockers? can you turn the pushrods when not compressed?
The engine would start, no backfiring, stud mount rockers, and I couldn't spin the pushrods when compressed. My compression was at 135 until I backed off the rockers. Now it's at around 170, but the rockers are real loose, I can lift them off the pushrod when the valve is closed. That is too loose. What next?
WHITE94COBRA
New Member
Now you can physically move the pushrod? now tighten down the lock nut until you can barely turn the pushrod. start the motor and let idle until warm, then readjust.
All right, well I set the rockers again, and managed to get about 145psi compression at the same time. I put everything back together, and fired her up. She runs a lot better, the idle is a lot less choppy, and she revs (I wasn't revving hard, and only up to 2500 or so) a lot smoother.
The only problem now is she still idles so low I can't get her to stay running long enough to check the timing. She'll start to surge then die. Plus my fuel pressure is at 40psi at idle, and 50 under load. I haven't set my afpr yet, but she won't idle long enough for me to do so!!
The only problem now is she still idles so low I can't get her to stay running long enough to check the timing. She'll start to surge then die. Plus my fuel pressure is at 40psi at idle, and 50 under load. I haven't set my afpr yet, but she won't idle long enough for me to do so!!
WHITE94COBRA
New Member
Set the idle set screw on the side of the TB higher, adjust fuel pressure, to about 38 (since your idle is higher) at idle. then re adjust you idle down to 750 - 800 rpm for a 5 SP. and 850 - 950 for a auto, then you should have no trouble adjusting timing. Also remember that it takes 5 start cycles for the computer to "learn" what is going on with new mods. Just out of curiosity have you reset the puter? (IE: unplugged the neg from the battery terminal for a little while?)
18mustangs
New Member
CManT1914 said:All right, well I set the rockers again, and managed to get about 145psi compression at the same time. I put everything back together, and fired her up. She runs a lot better, the idle is a lot less choppy, and she revs (I wasn't revving hard, and only up to 2500 or so) a lot smoother.
The only problem now is she still idles so low I can't get her to stay running long enough to check the timing. She'll start to surge then die. Plus my fuel pressure is at 40psi at idle, and 50 under load. I haven't set my afpr yet, but she won't idle long enough for me to do so!!
Chris, don't put too much into the choppy idle. The TFS Stage 1 cam has a choppy idle (and probably more so until the computer learns the new setup). Also, if you think fuel pressure is a factor put the stock FPR back on until you get the car running and once it runs put the new AFPR on and set the fuel pressure to suit your new engine setup.
Tim
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