What isthe most cost effective way to bag a stang?

[ron67fb]

This kit, http://airbagit-store.com/product.a...returnURL=%2Fproduct%5Flist%2Easp%3Fid%3D2216 that I posted about earlier is everything need other than some coil brackets which are $176. They emailed me back...I still have a few other places I am waiting to hear back from. If all goes well and my motorcycle gets sold I may try to bag my stang...

That site is terrible... Every kit listed has the same picture with the "additional parts may be needed and priced accordingly" so it seems like they just added "kits" for cars that people asked about.

So for $1k, that includes the "shockwave" style units for the front? And what are the coil brackets for, is that to mount the rear units to the framerail?

The full "U-build" setup for $1k isn't bad but I think I could save more since I really don't want side-to-side.

 

[nugget68]

that kit doesnt include the shockwave knock offs. it has regular bags. the coil brackets are to mount the bags, the bags mount to the brackets, and then they mount up like the coil springs. the shocks have to be relocated. as far as the rear goes i think that they do mount to the frame rails, i am just starting to research this so i am learning as i go. i really dont want side to side either but i found that kit and thought that is would probably be the cheapest. so a total of around $1200 isnt bad to bag a stang...

 

[ron67fb]

OK this isn't sounding too good to me, then. Did they tell you the shocks have to be relocated? Where would one relocate the front shocks to? The lack of a full lower A-arm on our cars pretty much rules that out. To me, the only proper way to airbag an early Mustang is to use the integral, i.e. "Shockwave" type bags.

If their shockwaves are $500, then adding that to the kit instead of what's supplied should just be a few hundred more.

 

[nugget68]

i guess youwould have to be creative with the shock mounting...probably the shockwave knockoffs would be the best...

 

[CochinoFilipino]

Do your research. I don't have first hand experience but have been warned on another board that Chassitech/AIM/Air Ride Pro stuff is crap.

To do it on a budget just use double convoluted bags and mount them the traditional way using plates and cups. You might have to use some type of spacer between the spring perch and the bottom plate, or modify a cup, to clear the UCA.

You could weld some shock mounts to the side of the UCA and the shocktower cup inside the fender (may need reinforcement?) to mount your shocks

For the rear, do as was said above and remove some leaves from the pack and put bags over the springs.

To keep it real cheap skip the air management system and just use shraeder valves.

IF you decide you need an onboard-adjustable system and still want to keep it relatively low-buck use MIC manual air valves and skip the fancy electronics. http://www.masterimagecustoms.com/store/manualav.html

A good place for the rest of the stuff is www.suicidedoors.com .

And make sure each bag has it's own valve(s).

 

[nugget68]

Thanks for the heads up on that vendor, I had actually been warned by someone else to after I posted that. I emailed the tech guys at suicidedoors.com to see what they could do for me...

 

[iskwezm]

Do your research. I don't have first hand experience but have been warned on another board that Chassitech/AIM/Air Ride Pro stuff is crap.

To do it on a budget just use double convoluted bags and mount them the traditional way using plates and cups. You might have to use some type of spacer between the spring perch and the bottom plate, or modify a cup, to clear the UCA.

You could weld some shock mounts to the side of the UCA and the shocktower cup inside the fender (may need reinforcement?) to mount your shocks

For the rear, do as was said above and remove some leaves from the pack and put bags over the springs.

To keep it real cheap skip the air management system and just use shraeder valves.

IF you decide you need an onboard-adjustable system and still want to keep it relatively low-buck use MIC manual air valves and skip the fancy electronics. http://www.masterimagecustoms.com/store/manualav.html

A good place for the rest of the stuff is www.suicidedoors.com .

And make sure each bag has it's own valve(s).

AIM sells Firestone bags as well as no named bags..Double convoluted bags rip and puncture just like a "strut" type and need A LOT more fabrication.So as far as being cheap, your gonna spend way more on labor and/or frustration.

You also named all 3 big makers of air ride and said they're stuff is crap.Who is left and who do you suggest or what have you read that works???

I had a bagged chevy full size in the mid 90's and used AIM stuf with no problems.MIC is just a overpriced company that puts look before the quality.There is no need for a billet switch and using a schraeder valve defeats the purpose of having air ride without being able to adjust pressure while driving.Welding a shock mount to the upper control arm is gonna put way too much strees on the sheet metal in the tower, which means more strengthening and more work.There is gonna be very little room over the axle for springs with or without exhaust.

Air shocks/struts are the easiest/fastest way to do it.

 

[CochinoFilipino]

AIM sells Firestone bags as well as no named bags..Double convoluted bags rip and puncture just like a "strut" type and need A LOT more fabrication.So as far as being cheap, your gonna spend way more on labor and/or frustration.

You also named all 3 big makers of air ride and said they're stuff is crap.Who is left and who do you suggest or what have you read that works???

I had a bagged chevy full size in the mid 90's and used AIM stuf with no problems.MIC is just a overpriced company that puts look before the quality.There is no need for a billet switch and using a schraeder valve defeats the purpose of having air ride without being able to adjust pressure while driving.Welding a shock mount to the upper control arm is gonna put way too much strees on the sheet metal in the tower, which means more strengthening and more work.There is gonna be very little room over the axle for springs with or without exhaust.

Air shocks/struts are the easiest/fastest way to do it.

Like I said, I don't have first hand experience. So take it as you will.

But from what I've read it seemed that AIM/ARP/ChassisTech are the same company. Maybe they do also sell Firestone bags, I don't know. But posts on other sites have lead me to just stay away from their products. As far as bags, I've read that Firestone and Slam Specialties are good. But I understand that the Valves are usually the cause of problems. So you want make sure to use good ones. I don't know what brand, like I said "do your research".

Since the OP was about bagging on a budget. I was only suggesting that the manual valves can be used instead. It will be cheaper initially and cheaper to maintain. I have found another brand but MIC was the only one that I had feedback on.

As far the use of shraeder valves defeating the purpose. I guess it would if your intent is to move up, down, front, back, and side2side. I'd be more interested in just improving ride quality and performance. While I can appreciate them, I'm not that into lowriders. The set-up would still be adjustable, you just can't do it on the fly. It's kinda like saying manual hub locks defeat the purpose of a 4x4. He could add in air management later when his budget allows it.

I won't speculate as to where the best location is for this application. But Bags don't have go directly over the axle.

The thread was about the most cost effective way to bag. But everyone loves to ignore the "budget' part and go on about all the cool high dollar parts. If you don't have to worry about costs, I'd say find a good distributer and get all Air Ride Technology stuff. But that's not what the thread was about.

 

[CochinoFilipino]

,,,,,,,,,The easiest and cheapest method for the rear is to remove all leafs from your leaf spring pack except the main leaf, then place the bags between the leaf mspring mounting pad and the frame rail. ,,,,,,,,.

I am wondering how well this method works, how man leaves need to be removed, and if traction bars can be used to keep axle-wrap in check.

 

[nugget68]

I think I might have figured out what I am going to do for now...I think that I will go with the air over shocks for the front to keep it simple and then use a kit from sucidedoors.com for the rear. they have a rear ket that fits behind your rear end, hopefully it will clear the gas tank? I will probably take advice from CochinoFilipino on the air managment system and purchace that at a later date to keep costs down. I will still be able to adjust my ride height and have the comfort of air suspension. I guess all I would have to do is put a valve on each bag to adjust right? Anyone know what length air over shocks I need?

 

[CochinoFilipino]

Are you going with Air Ride Tech Shockwaves or the Air Ride Pro version?

If you're going to use shraeder valves, use one valve per bag.

 

[CochinoFilipino]

AIM sells Firestone bags as well as no named bags..,,,,

You also named all 3 big makers of air ride and said they're stuff is crap.,,,,,,.

I did a little online research in attempt to get my info straight.

I didn't see any Firestone bags at http://www.aimind.com/ And it still seems to me that AIM/ARP/ChassisTech are the same company. I found this site that suggest that there are a few more names that they use; http://www.bagginit.com/not_aim

I'm not trying to argue. I'm just interested in this subject and we don't seem to have much solid info on this forum. I just want to get the info straight for reference.

 

[nugget68]

Are you going with Air Ride Tech Shockwaves or the Air Ride Pro version?

If you're going to use shraeder valves, use one valve per bag.

I thought I would go with the air over shocks that are $540, I know that they arent shockwaves, they are the knock offs...

 

[iskwezm]

I did a little online research in attempt to get my info straight.

I didn't see any Firestone bags at http://www.aimind.com/ And it still seems to me that AIM/ARP/ChassisTech are the same company. I found this site that suggest that there are a few more names that they use; http://www.bagginit.com/not_aim

I'm not trying to argue. I'm just interested in this subject and we don't seem to have much solid info on this forum. I just want to get the info straight for reference.

well, i know i bought bags from them in the past as well as lines and fittings,but if they changed their vendors recently, then thats news to me.Being in the aftermarket industry and talking with them at SEMA, i do know they get stuff private labled for them and sell under their own name on some products.

From MY experience, i have had good luck with the products i have used from them.

 

[xoxbxfx]

bringing up an old thread... did you ever bag the stang?

Im about to bag mine (MII front, 4 link rear)

 

[nugget68]

bringing up an old thread... did you ever bag the stang?

Im about to bag mine (MII front, 4 link rear)

no, unfortunatly some things came up and the money from my bike was used elsewere...I rebuilt the front with new coils, shocks, control arms, bushings, sway bar, etc. i got less than $500 in the rebuild were I was looking over $1000 with bags. I may look in to it again in the future if funds become availiable, but with everything so expensive now and a 2 year old, extra money is hard to come by...

 

[xoxbxfx]

no, unfortunatly some things came up and the money from my bike was used elsewere...I rebuilt the front with new coils, shocks, control arms, bushings, sway bar, etc. i got less than $500 in the rebuild were I was looking over $1000 with bags. I may look in to it again in the future if funds become availiable, but with everything so expensive now and a 2 year old, extra money is hard to come by...

I feel your pain. Im looking at $1600 to bag the front and rear. I really didnt want to but my front crossmember sits 4" off the ground right now and I just cant afford for the steering rack to smash on stuff or bend the crossmember going 60mph on the highway.

 

[nugget68]

I feel your pain. Im looking at $1600 to bag the front and rear. I really didnt want to but my front crossmember sits 4" off the ground right now and I just cant afford for the steering rack to smash on stuff or bend the crossmember going 60mph on the highway.

I'd love to see some pics of it when you are finished...what all are you using?

 

[xoxbxfx]

I'd love to see some pics of it when you are finished...what all are you using?

Front end will be modified lower control arms (mustang II) with cups to mount the bags. The rear is a Thorbecke Brothers 4 link kit. Going to mount the lower bars in the place of the leaf springs, and the upper bars will triangulate to the middle of the car. The top bars will be the same setup as the airride kit. Also relocating the shocks. I got a killer deal on a full digital system from a guy on another site. Retail was $1800 and I paid $1000. He is a small time dealer for AirLift

I will get pics of everything..it will be another week or two before it is done. Im still waiting on the parts.

 

[nugget68]

sounds good man... i would love to have the adjustability and comfort of the air ride...