What kind of radiator should i buy?

restomod22 · Dec 7, 2004

Hey all,

Could anyone give me suggestions on what to buy for my setup? I have the stock rad on there now and my recent rebuild has been overheating (new block, heads--the other mods I had on previous stock SB). Any decent vendors or brands? I'm not looking to break the bank, so something to do the job and keep her cool. I'm guessing aluminum is the best way to go? How many rows? If I get a bigger rad, do I need to re-locate the battery? Should I buy a new thermostat? I have stock now. 6 blade fan, no shroud.

Thanks for any help!

1320stang · Dec 8, 2004

There have been several guys buy aluminum radiators off Ebay for a little over $100, but you have to fabricate mounts for them. One that bolts directly in is some $$$.

Pbum5 · Dec 8, 2004

restomod22 said:
Hey all,

Could anyone give me suggestions on what to buy for my setup? I have the stock rad on there now and my recent rebuild has been overheating (new block, heads--the other mods I had on previous stock SB). Any decent vendors or brands? I'm not looking to break the bank, so something to do the job and keep her cool. I'm guessing aluminum is the best way to go? How many rows? If I get a bigger rad, do I need to re-locate the battery? Should I buy a new thermostat? I have stock now. 6 blade fan, no shroud.

Thanks for any help!

I have a standard designed 4-row. It’s a direct bolt in and it works great. I run a stock style 160 thermostat. I think Milodon makes a “High Flow” thermostat that’s not much more than a stock style. I have a flex fan and No shroud. It runs at 180 or less. If I sit and idle for a long time it will begin to heat up but if you are driving it’s never a problem. I got mine from Sacramento Mustang. I think the sell for $ 269.00. You might also want to check your water pump. I have stock one but would like to upgrade to an aluminum one when mine goes out. Always replace the thermostat when your in there. It's cheap insurance.

rbohm · Dec 8, 2004

i agree with pbum5, get a good three or four core brass/copper rad and be done with it. most aluminum rads are designed for racing and dont cool well on the street, and those that do generally cost in area of $400!

Hack · Dec 8, 2004

Modern radiators in production cars are made of aluminum. I spent a little time researching it, and they switched over to aluminum because an aluminum radiator will cool better than brass. Jeg's has some generic aluminum radiators that are inexpensive, if you aren't going for the original look.

I would buy a generic aluminum radiator. That's what I'm planning for my car when I drop in the V8.

restomod22 · Dec 8, 2004

Thanks for the replies, guys.....

I was thinking aluminum, because I thought it would keep the car cooler and like Hack said, they are what is used in modern production cars. Is this true or is this true: "i agree with pbum5, get a good three or four core brass/copper rad and be done with it. most aluminum rads are designed for racing and dont cool well on the street, and those that do generally cost in area of $400! "

I don't mind the look, as my car is a restomod (I know, played out term ). I don't really want to spend $400, either. Anyone else want to weigh in on alum over brass?

Can someone tell me what the difference in "rows" are? What's best? What's the most rows? Least?

Thanks for all the help guys. I've only been on here for a few months and everyone has been great!!

65fastback2+2 · Dec 8, 2004

Hack said:
Modern radiators in production cars are made of aluminum. I spent a little time researching it, and they switched over to aluminum because an aluminum radiator will cool better than brass. Jeg's has some generic aluminum radiators that are inexpensive, if you aren't going for the original look.

I would buy a generic aluminum radiator. That's what I'm planning for my car when I drop in the V8.

to convert to a summit racing aluminum rad, you have to get a driver's side water pump from like a 70 mustang, this also requires you to change your timing pointer which is a pain also...

65fastback2+2 · Dec 8, 2004

restomod22 said:
Thanks for the replies, guys.....

I was thinking aluminum, because I thought it would keep the car cooler and like Hack said, they are what is used in modern production cars. Is this true or is this true: "i agree with pbum5, get a good three or four core brass/copper rad and be done with it. most aluminum rads are designed for racing and dont cool well on the street, and those that do generally cost in area of $400! "

I don't mind the look, as my car is a restomod (I know, played out term ). I don't really want to spend $400, either. Anyone else want to weigh in on alum over brass?

Can someone tell me what the difference in "rows" are? What's best? What's the most rows? Least?

Thanks for all the help guys. I've only been on here for a few months and everyone has been great!!

in the end, the rads are pretty much equal. Aluminum rads are usually two rows and nice copper ones like I have in mine are 4 rows, nice and thick. Its all about the density of the metal, copper transfers high amounts of heat, but slowly, whereas aluminum transfers low amounts of heat quickly. Basically, aluminum radiators are put in cars because of 1) they are light for racing, and 2) aluminum is cheaper than copper/brass.

Hope that helps

1320stang · Dec 8, 2004

For those wanting an original look, Eastwood sells black radiator paint in a rattle can. Someplace else probably does as well, but this stuff goes on in a thinner coat than regular paint. You could also have it anodized I'll bet.

restomod22 · Dec 8, 2004

65fastback2+2 said:
to convert to a summit racing aluminum rad, you have to get a driver's side water pump from like a 70 mustang, this also requires you to change your timing pointer which is a pain also...

Oh, that sucks. Is that for any aluminum rad or just those from Summit.....sorry for the ignorance!

65fastback2+2 · Dec 8, 2004

restomod22 said:
Oh, that sucks. Is that for any aluminum rad or just those from Summit.....sorry for the ignorance!

Most aluminum rads are driver lower and passenger upper configuration and most aluminum radiators adhere to this configuration, i dont think that ALL do though...

edit: mustangs up to 1970 i think it is, are passnger upper and passenger lower configuration

restomod22 · Dec 8, 2004

Do you think a rad from a 93 stang would work well for cooling? I have access to one that is free. I know I'll have to modify a little, relocate the battery, etc.

69 302/351c · Dec 8, 2004

I got my aluminum radiator from Crites Restoration about 2 years ago for about $175 plus a few more for an mounting kit. Installed it in about an hour. When I ordered it, they asked what sides I needed the outlet/inlets and I have them both on the passenger side. Runs way cooler than the old stock radiator.

Hack · Dec 9, 2004

65fastback2+2 said:
to convert to a summit racing aluminum rad, you have to get a driver's side water pump from like a 70 mustang, this also requires you to change your timing pointer which is a pain also...

I have no idea why someone would buy that. Why do you mention it?

If you're buying a radiator, buy one that fits. It's not that big of a deal from what I can tell. Just measure your engine compartment, look at the locations of the hose attachments, and make sure the new part will physically fit there.

I was planning on buying a Jeg's universal radiator. They have both Chevy and Ford set ups available in a couple different sizes each. They cost less than $200 iirc. Compared to over $400 for a factory replacement for a '70 with a 351C.

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=174714&prmenbr=361

And aluminum radiators are thinner because aluminum cools better. You need a brass radiator with twice as many cores to keep up with an aluminum radiator.

Cbarton · Dec 9, 2004

Here's the deal on radiators. You don't need a lot of rows. I had a 89 mustang conv. with a vortech, tfs, etc. 450 hp. It was overheating like a pig. I bought the Ford motorsports HD radiator 4 row and it STILL overheated. Finally spoke to an old codger at a radiator shop who told me it's not how many rows you have as much as it's how big your tubes are. I went to Ron Davis http://www.rondavisradiators.com/
and he sold me a 2 row BIG tube allum radiator and I NEVER ran hot again. I have bought several since and can say his price AND quality are unbeatable. Check him out. Crap, he's in Arizona...he KNOWS how to keep cars cool....

Chris Barton

Edbert · Dec 9, 2004

Okay, time to dispell some myths...

Advantages of aluminum over brass:

Weight...they weigh less for the same capacity and surface area.
Heat transfer...aluminum transfers heat better than brass, no ifs ands or buts.
Paint...you can leave the aluminum radiators as natural finish. It looks good and of course does not have the paint to act as insulation. Brass radiators are always painted that I know of, I have seen top tanks that were not, but the owner had to routinely polish it.

Advantages of brass over aluminum:

Durability...Aluminum corrodes more readily. Aluminum radiators have a different formula of antifreeze to prevent this. It is not a real concern of you keep your fliud fresh by changing it at appropriate intervals.
I can't think of any more.

FITMENT:
You can get radiators in crossflow, or topflow. You can get drivers side or passenger side intakes and exits. To make fitting even more variable you can get drivers side or passenger side water pumps, including impellers that turn either direction. Basically the floor is wide open regarding what will fit and how.

You can pay big money for custom fit and polished aluminum radiators, even more for those with specific application kits and associated hardware. But to say that all aluminum radiators are expensive is wrong. Also to say that aluminum radiators are not appropriate for a stree car or are only for drag racing is wrong. There's more aluminum radiators on your street than brass, by a LONG shot. NASCAR racers all use aluminum, think they have heavy cooling needs? You just have to check the GVW rating of the one you intend to buy and make sure it is appropriate for your car/motor/tranny combo.

I say buy an aluminum radiator for your classic, it will outperform the one you have, and wegh less while you are at it. In fact I have an unused 4-core brass one that will be a factory-fit for a 67-68 (probably a 65-66 too), I chose to use an aluminum one after I had already purchased the "desert-cooler".

66stangmeister · Dec 9, 2004

I just emailed that Ron Davis place and they said their '66 Mustang pass. side inlet outlet aluminum radiator is $389 and only have 1 in stock.
I gasped at the price, cuz you can get a equally efficient alum. radiator from like Howe for 180 dollars and I think you can tell them how u want the inlet/outlets.
I'd rather buy that then spending over double for stock sized alum. radiator.

restomod22 · Dec 9, 2004

66stangmeister said:
I just emailed that Ron Davis place and they said their '66 Mustang pass. side inlet outlet aluminum radiator is $389 and only have 1 in stock.
I gasped at the price, cuz you can get a equally efficient alum. radiator from like Howe for 180 dollars and I think you can tell them how u want the inlet/outlets.
I'd rather buy that then spending over double for stock sized alum. radiator.

Thanks, everyone!

I guess the majority say aluminum is the way to go. Fitament issues and the like are no big deal, I just want what cools best......

66stang......who is Howe and how do I contact him??

66stangmeister · Dec 9, 2004

i meant, Howe Racing. I just emailed them for a quote on a aluminum radiator for a '66 coupe with passenger side inlets/outlets. I'll post what they quote.

here's their site. there are a few other places that are similar. I'm sure other people can post those businesses.
http://www.howeracing.com/Index.htm

Edbert · Dec 9, 2004

66stangmeister said:
I just emailed that Ron Davis place and they said their '66 Mustang pass. side inlet outlet aluminum radiator is $389 and only have 1 in stock.
I gasped at the price, cuz you can get a equally efficient alum. radiator from like Howe for 180 dollars and I think you can tell them how u want the inlet/outlets.
I'd rather buy that then spending over double for stock sized alum. radiator.

Yeah...there's plenty of folks out there who are VERY proud of their products alright. I think that is where the myth of the expensive aluminum radiators come from. Try pricing out one of those "Be-Cool" units sometime...sheesh!

Howe makes a good one, you can even get a Fluidyne for less than those other guys. I bought a "Race Pro" radiator from Northern (very much like the Howe IMHO) for about $150. Here's a picture of it in my car before the grill went in:

What kind of radiator should i buy?

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